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R1100R won't start after stall

alanr1100

New member
Greetings,

I’ve owned this ’99 R1100r for six years without any starting problems, other than a bad battery. Normally starts after a couple of seconds. Runs like a top.

So, I’m in a parking lot waiting for someone to back out of a spot, clutch in. When I release the clutch the bike jumps and stalls from too little throttle, I suppose. From that point I cannot start the bike. Luckily, I was able to walk it home.

Over the past few days:

I’ve replaced the 5-year-old Odyssey battery with a new one. I turned on switch and turned throttle all the way twice. Turned off, waited 15 minutes and then back on to restart. The engine cranks but acts as if there is no fuel or spark. Tank is 3/4 full. Haven’t checked the spark as Clymer seems to think this is risky.

All lights work.

In 40 years of riding and amateur work on motorcycles (30 years riding R-bikes) I don’t recall having this problem but of course any number of things might have happened. Any ideas are most welcome.
 
Get an induction style timing light - the kind that has a clamp that goes around the spark plug wire. With the timing light attached crank the engine and observe if there is or there is not spark.

Also, remove and clean the spark plugs. They might be fuel fouled.
 
Get an induction style timing light - the kind that has a clamp that goes around the spark plug wire. With the timing light attached crank the engine and observe if there is or there is not spark.

Also, remove and clean the spark plugs. They might be fuel fouled.

Thanks. Those are good ideas. Will take a crack at it tomorrow (or whenever I can get the timing light) and report back here.
 
Did the tank harness come unplugged maybe? Looking where you recently went sometimes helps. The clip on the connector maybe didn’t engage and your jump and die let it disconnect?

Happens :whistle
 
You should hear fuel pump right as key turned on big clue

And Welcome to the Forum :wave
 
Get an induction style timing light - the kind that has a clamp that goes around the spark plug wire. With the timing light attached crank the engine and observe if there is or there is not spark.

Also, remove and clean the spark plugs. They might be fuel fouled.

I found an old induction timing light in a shed. Tried it on both cylinders but got nothing. Could it be broken? I took a lamp out and plugged into an outdoor wall outlet and tried the clamp on that wire while it was attached to the bike battery. Did nothing. You'd think it would detect 120v.

Installed two new Denso IK22 (5310) spark plugs. The old NGK ones looked good at the electrodes but were badly corroded on the outside.

I'll probably buy a new inductive timing light tomorrow unless someone here has a better idea on how to check if mine actually works.

Thanks for your help! I'm learning a few things.
 
I think this is one of the bikes that need the HES checked? Do you know if it has been done?
Not sure if this is one of the bikes with the too tight wire loom clamp up near the neck of the bike.
OM
 
I think this is one of the bikes that need the HES checked? Do you know if it has been done?
Not sure if this is one of the bikes with the too tight wire loom clamp up near the neck of the bike.
OM

I don't know what a HES is. I live about 1 1/2 hours from a BMW dealer/service so would like to work with available options first. Thanks.
 
I think this is one of the bikes that need the HES checked? Do you know if it has been done?
Not sure if this is one of the bikes with the too tight wire loom clamp up near the neck of the bike.
OM

I'd check the HES and the pulley that provides the signal in the front timing chest. My brother's R11RS had that pulley split, which meant the HES wasn't getting any signal at all. That's the second time I've seen that first hand. It'll look fine when you pull the front cover, but if you pull the belt, it'll come apart into two halves.

Dying like that sounds like an ignition problem, so that's where I'd start.
 
I don't know what a HES is. I live about 1 1/2 hours from a BMW dealer/service so would like to work with available options first. Thanks.

Hall Effect Sensor. It's a sensor that reads crank position to send spark to the plugs. If the señsor itself is screwed, it can be pricey. But if it's just the pulley, it's a $35 part or something you can likely swap on your own if you're halfway mechanically inclined.

It lives inside the front cover and the pulley is the bottom pulley on the alternator belt. The sensor lives adjacent to it and has a couple wires running out of it.
 
Greetings,

I’ve owned this ’99 R1100r for six years without any starting problems, other than a bad battery. Normally starts after a couple of seconds. Runs like a top.

Over the past few days:
I’ve replaced the 5-year-old Odyssey battery with a new one. I turned on switch and turned throttle all the way twice. Turned off, waited 15 minutes and then back on to restart. The engine cranks but acts as if there is no fuel or spark. Tank is 3/4 full. Haven’t checked the spark as Clymer seems to think this is risky.

Any ideas are most welcome.

Take a good spark plug, insert it into the plug boot and ground the plug to the motor. You can hold it on the cylinder fins, but I would wear a heavy glove. Press the starter and watch for a spark at the gap - should be bluish color.

Take one of the injectors out from the throttle body. Leave the fuel line attached to it. Press the starter and you should see a fine spray of gas from the injector tip. Don't smoke when you're doing this. You could point the injector into a clear container to catch the gas if you like.

If you don't have spark and/or you don't have gas that's a problem. Report back.

HES - Hall Effect Sensor - is the ignition sensor. Wiring harness on this part is bad on EVERY 1100 Oilhead bike, except for some R1100S bikes. If the wiring on the HES wasn't repaired or the whole thing replaced, that is either your problem, or your future problem. EVERY 1100 Oilhead. Got that? It's a PITA but not a major repair. About $130 or so to have someone (GSADDICT) repair it beautifully, or a few bucks to repair yourself - with the correct type of wires. Or about $2-300 for a new one.
 
I don't know what a HES is. I live about 1 1/2 hours from a BMW dealer/service so would like to work with available options first. Thanks.

Hopefully GSAddict will come by for recommendations. The Hall Effect Sensor is the, in simple terms, the trigger control for the ignition system.
It seems sometimes they go quick and sometimes there is a bit of a warning…..like stumbling in the rain. The early insulation was subject to degradation with age.

Good luck.

OM
 
To add to the above comments, not only is the HES the trigger for the ignition it is also the control signal for the firing of the fuel injectors. It does both.
 
Hall Effect Sensor. It's a sensor that reads crank position to send spark to the plugs. If the señsor itself is screwed, it can be pricey. But if it's just the pulley, it's a $35 part or something you can likely swap on your own if you're halfway mechanically inclined.

It lives inside the front cover and the pulley is the bottom pulley on the alternator belt. The sensor lives adjacent to it and has a couple wires running out of it.

Thanks a lot. I'll check it out.
 
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