Need to Know If and Where My 2004 R1150R Has Jump Start Lugs

[ellengtrgrl]

Hi People,

This past January, I posted about having a dead battery in my 2004 R1150R, that I'd laid up for the winter. Well, the bike is still out of commission, due to me contracting a severe case of dermatitis (on my legs, arms, and torso, that was severe enough that I wound up with an infection that required antibiotics), that necessitated me seeing a dermatologist for tests. Then to top things off the dermatitis flared up again 3 weeks ago (necessitating more steriod use, to settle things down). It was finally determined last week what the cause was (metals allergies to nickel and chromium), and what can be done to prevent re-occurrences. To prevent aggaravating my dermatitis (while it was occurring), I opted not to ride, to prevent any wind induced skin irritation. Well, now I'm ready to ride, and I still have to deal with my dead battery.

The only problem is that upon examing things more thoroughly, it still looks like it's going to be a bear to get the battery out, and re-charge it, leading me to think that if I can do it, it would be better to jump start my R1150R from my car, and go for a nice, long ride to re-charge the battery. Some online research yesterday, indicated that starting in 2004, BMW added lugs to the R1150R for jump starting it. The problem is, it sounds like not all 2004 R1150Rs have this feature (as it is, the maintenance instructions manual that came with my R1150R, do not make any mention about how to jump start it), and when I checked what I thought was the proper location for the "positive" jump start lug as shown in an online photo (it seems to be under the seat, above the air box), I didn't see any presence of a "positive" lug.

Am I looking on the wrong place, or do I just plain not have jump start lugs on my 2004 R1150R? Am I just better to take the financial hit, and have my bike picked up by the local BMW dealer, to get the problem taken care of (including having jump start lugs installed), since I live in an apartment building, and have a limited number of tools, and am also limited facilities-wise, what I can do for servcing my bike?

I'd really like to get my R1150R out on the road - it's getting depressing to see other riders in my building (one has a Harley, the other one has a Yamaha R6, and the other one has a Kawasaki ER6n) heading out on their bikes, while mine remains laid up.

Thanks for any info you can provide,
Ellen

 

[ragtoplvr]

as long as that battery has been dead the odds of it recharging and being reliable are low. Not zero but low. On the left hand side of the bike is a plastic cover over the starter
here is a link that shows it.
https://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51768&rnd=04282014

if you have a jump start terminal it is on this cover, as shown above. parts 8, 9 and 10

good luck

Rod

 

[pauls1150]

On the RT, it's just forward of the nose of the seat, a little to the right of centerline. The factory put a big lug right on to the positive terminal of the battery; it is formed to be exposed (with a black plastic protective cap) when the seat is lifted.

I don't think the "R" has the factory lug; but maybe there is room for one (they are available separately)? From the link in Ragtop's post, select #61, Electrical System, and it's in the first box.
The ground connection may be any large frame or engine bolt; again, on the RT, there's a point down by the starter.

You may have to bite the bullet here - there are many good reasons to install an accessory outlet yourself (with an in-line 10 amp fuse), such as easy charging or plugging in a heated jacket liner or other accessory. It's easy enough that basic tools should cover the task; now you just need a handy 120-volt outlet for your charger.

(Ask your dermatologist about Diflorasone Diacetate ["Psorcon"] or Clobetasol Propionate.)

 

[ellengtrgrl]

On the RT, it's just forward of the nose of the seat, a little to the right of centerline. The factory put a big lug right on to the positive terminal of the battery; it is formed to be exposed (with a black plastic protective cap) when the seat is lifted.

I don't think the "R" has the factory lug; but maybe there is room for one (they are available separately)?
The ground connection may be any large frame or engine bolt; again, on the RT, there's a point down by the starter.

You may have to bite the bullet here - there are many good reasons to install an accessory outlet yourself (with an in-line 10 amp fuse), such as easy charging or plugging in a heated jacket liner or other accessory. It's easy enough that basic tools should cover the task; now you just need a handy 120-volt outlet for your charger.

Unfortunately, there's no outlet in the underground garage, for me to plug a charger into. Considering how long the battery has been dead, maybe I should just replace it.

(Ask your dermatologist about Diflorasone Diacetate ["Psorcon"] or Clobetasol Propionate.)

My dermatologist prescribed Clobetasol Propionate in a cream form. It's what was used to settle down the second bout of dermatitis. The first bout was intense enough, that I ended up having to take Prednisone (one of the most powerful steriods around) for 4 weeks, to get things to settle down. I had a patch test done, and it looks like exposure to nickel (possibly from my guitar strings [I've been playing guitar for 35 years], and from the stainless steel parts I deal with at work, while working in Quality Control), and chromium (to a lesser extent - also from contact to stainless steel at work) are the culprits. I had additional discussions with my dermatologist, this past Wednesday, after I got worried about even having exposure from eating utensils (which are stainless steel), door handles at work (also stainless steel), and guitar strings and frets (which are nickel). My dermatologist told me that there isn't as big of a concen about eating utensils, and stainless door handles, but that I should keep an eye out for dermatitis just in case. Ditto for nickel guitar frets (since my hands don't contact the frets very much). Stainless steel parts at work (because my hands contact them quite a bit), and nickel guitar strings, are of concern. For the stainless steel parts at work, I'll wear gloves from now on. As for the guitar strings (mainly electric - my acoustic guitars use bronze and phosphor bronze strings) - there are nickel and chromium free strings available, and I'll use those instead.

 

[pauls1150]

Or yank it out, bring it upstairs to your charger, and hook it up for a couple of days...
Even a "brand new" battery can benefit from a charge before you put it in: you have no idea how long it's been sitting on the dealer's shelf.

I like GHS and Ernie ball, but I have no idea about their content...

Hey, might you know where I can get a schematic for a very old practice amp? I was given a "Fame Series Bass 15" a while back that needs some fixin', and I can't find squat about it... On the back is a logo that "sorta" looks like a script DSS Systems, & "Division of International Music Company, Ft. Worth Texas"

 

[ellengtrgrl]

Or yank it out, bring it upstairs to your charger, and hook it up for a couple of days...
Even a "brand new" battery can benefit from a charge before you put it in: you have no idea how long it's been sitting on the dealer's shelf.

So, the battery still may be useable, despite being dead since the middle of November? I do have a charger.

I wish the battery wasn't under the gas tank. The manual lists pulling the gas tank off to get at the battery. That's going to be fun, considering it's full of gas (along with gas stabilizer), and will weigh a ton! I don't know if the gas tank can be tilted up enough (without having to disconnect things) to reach the battery for removal. There are at least 4 fasteners that need to be removed to tilt the gas tank: 2 that hold the side panels to the gas tank (which use torx screws - I ended up having to buy a torx key set); and 2 bolts, that bolt the gas tank onto the frame (looks like I'll have to buy another metric socket set - I scrapped my old one some time ago), that are way under the gas tank (I'll need a socket extender shaft). For all I know, there are more points that are used to fasten the gas tank to the frame.

 

[SeabeckS]

Wish I still had my '04 50R, I'd go look at it to refresh my memory banks about battery access. On my S it is possible to undo fasteners and tip the tank up just enough to exchange the battery. Like others have mentioned, it might be worth trying to rehab/recharge the old battery. For piece of mind, probably best to replace it sometime soon.

Another tip...with a fully flat battery, or during installation of a new one, I believe your Motronic brain the reads the throttle position will need to be reset. Simple to do, once the new battery is installed, turn the key on but don't start the engine. With the key on, just turn the throttle to full on/full off a few times...mission accomplished.

Good luck with the dermatitis, been there, done that!

Take care!

 

[tourer1150]

Battery extension-angle

Battery Extension Parts
09-- 61 21 7 671 334 EXTENSION-ANGLE PIECE FOR BATTERY $11.15
10-- 61 13 7 671 354 EARTH PIN - M6X10 $9.77
11-- 61 13 7 672 395 PROTECTION CAP $3.95
12-- 07 11 9 931 050 WASHER - 6,4 $0.50
At the cylinder head you take your ground contact.

 

[tourer1150]

R connector

On the R you can also drill a hole thru your starter cover and mount the parts below. There is a PDF file (322KB) at ADVwisdom that shows the install. If the link doesn't work google 'r1150 mount 61 13 7 671 355'
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...wUomKMTuUVK6cWQ&bvm=bv.69411363,d.b2k&cad=rja

08 61 13 7 671 355 BRACKET (from 08/03) $6.98
09 61 13 7 671 354 EARTH PIN - M6X10 (from 08/03) $9.77
10 61 13 7 672 395 PROTECTION CAP (from 08/03) $3.95

 

[ragtoplvr]

So, the battery still may be useable, despite being dead since the middle of November? I do have a charger.

I wish the battery wasn't under the gas tank. The manual lists pulling the gas tank off to get at the battery. That's going to be fun, considering it's full of gas (along with gas stabilizer), and will weigh a ton! I don't know if the gas tank can be tilted up enough (without having to disconnect things) to reach the battery for removal. There are at least 4 fasteners that need to be removed to tilt the gas tank: 2 that hold the side panels to the gas tank (which use torx screws - I ended up having to buy a torx key set); and 2 bolts, that bolt the gas tank onto the frame (looks like I'll have to buy another metric socket set - I scrapped my old one some time ago), that are way under the gas tank (I'll need a socket extender shaft). For all I know, there are more points that are used to fasten the gas tank to the frame.

You are in Wisconsin. Does the underground garage freeze. A discharged battery can freeze, and then they are damaged. Yes, I have seen a frozen battery thaw and work, for a short time.

I would just replace it, no question. Odyssey if it will fit.

Rod

 

[henzilla]

So, the battery still may be useable, despite being dead since the middle of November? I do have a charger.

I wish the battery wasn't under the gas tank. The manual lists pulling the gas tank off to get at the battery. That's going to be fun, considering it's full of gas (along with gas stabilizer), and will weigh a ton! I don't know if the gas tank can be tilted up enough (without having to disconnect things) to reach the battery for removal. There are at least 4 fasteners that need to be removed to tilt the gas tank: 2 that hold the side panels to the gas tank (which use torx screws - I ended up having to buy a torx key set); and 2 bolts, that bolt the gas tank onto the frame (looks like I'll have to buy another metric socket set - I scrapped my old one some time ago), that are way under the gas tank (I'll need a socket extender shaft). For all I know, there are more points that are used to fasten the gas tank to the frame.

The tank really has to come off on the 1150R, the 1100R you could just prop it up. If you need help. maybe a looksy in the Anonymous Book for some local assistance...or shop space! I'm a bit far away or I'd offer .



It is straightforward if you want to tackle it. I have removed several with full tanks...even a few 1150GSA's. Not the best situation but it is what it is at times.

Remove the small wedge cover over the gas fittings on right side. one T-25 and a grommet/probe midway.


There is only one tank to frame bolt, needing a T-45, located on the right side by quick connects, drain lines and electrical connector.The 1150 has a captive nut so just remove bolt and the nut stays. The rubber bushing in the tank mount that bolt passes thru USUALLY will stay in the tank...make sure it does or it will probably roll down the floor drain!

The electrical connector is pinched midpoint and pulls to the rear,the forward side of connector is mounted to frame and can break if pulled on.

Upon reinstall always have your eye on this connector as you lower the tank.

The two fuel quick disconnects are there , push the tab and GENTLY pull them apart . Some may add this is an opportunity to upgrade to a better set of connectors

If you still have the carbon canister( tomato paste can) under the seat rail on same right side, disconnect the tank vent lines with one plastic connector on one line. the bare hose on the other...so they do not get crossed.They should be on the frame ziptied right below seat level. If the canister is gone , no big deal as they both are supposed to drain down by centerstand.I just do it the same way everytime



The two cooler covers come off with two T-25's on the lower edge and three more I believe under the covers holding the coolers to the tank. The two painted trim panels can be left on, just remove the two T-25's at the tank side of each.I sometimes put a small block between them and frame for easier tank re -install...they can get in the way.

Pull the coolers away and forward just a bit....they won't move too far so don't worry. The tank sits on two rubber bumpers at the level of the coolers bracket. You can see them under tank looking from front.

Stand over the tank and lift up and back, I lift from front center of tank and rear center...should be standing there with a free tank...maybe a bit heavy! I prefer standing on left side of bike.

re-install by lining bumpers up and setting tank on them as you lower the rear of tank...check to see all lines and that electrical connector are still visible.

The GS jump start posts are nice, and definitely a way to get a good set of jumper cable involved!
While you are at the battery, install a SAE pigtail so you can at least charge it somewhere/sometime. leave the pigtail hanging at rear of tank.

Or....go look in the nice little book and ask for help...or call the dealer...anyways...Good Luck!

 

[Gonzo49]

Nickle sensitivity

Unfortunately, there's no outlet in the underground garage, for me to plug a charger into. Considering how long the battery has been dead, maybe I should just replace it.




My dermatologist prescribed Clobetasol Propionate in a cream form. It's what was used to settle down the second bout of dermatitis. The first bout was intense enough, that I ended up having to take Prednisone (one of the most powerful steriods around) for 4 weeks, to get things to settle down. I had a patch test done, and it looks like exposure to nickel (possibly from my guitar strings [I've been playing guitar for 35 years], and from the stainless steel parts I deal with at work, while working in Quality Control), and chromium (to a lesser extent - also from contact to stainless steel at work) are the culprits. I had additional discussions with my dermatologist, this past Wednesday, after I got worried about even having exposure from eating utensils (which are stainless steel), door handles at work (also stainless steel), and guitar strings and frets (which are nickel). My dermatologist told me that there isn't as big of a concen about eating utensils, and stainless door handles, but that I should keep an eye out for dermatitis just in case. Ditto for nickel guitar frets (since my hands don't contact the frets very much). Stainless steel parts at work (because my hands contact them quite a bit), and nickel guitar strings, are of concern. For the stainless steel parts at work, I'll wear gloves from now on. As for the guitar strings (mainly electric - my acoustic guitars use bronze and phosphor bronze strings) - there are nickel and chromium free strings available, and I'll use those instead.

You might want to check with your dentist and examine his records. Some crowns are alloyed with nickle, reactions especially with women are not uncommon.

 

[ellengtrgrl]

Or yank it out, bring it upstairs to your charger, and hook it up for a couple of days...
Even a "brand new" battery can benefit from a charge before you put it in: you have no idea how long it's been sitting on the dealer's shelf.

I like GHS and Ernie ball, but I have no idea about their content...

Hey, might you know where I can get a schematic for a very old practice amp? I was given a "Fame Series Bass 15" a while back that needs some fixin', and I can't find squat about it... On the back is a logo that "sorta" looks like a script DSS Systems, & "Division of International Music Company, Ft. Worth Texas"

I didn't check out GHS' strings. Ernie Ball makes Cobalt (& Steel) strings (which I confirmed via e-mail, are nickel and chromium free), which are what I went with. Rotosound also make British Steels, which they advertise as being nickel free. There are quite a few guitar players that have nickel allergies. I was worried about my guitar frets (since almost all frets are nickel or stainless steel), but my dermatologist told me those aren't as big a concern for my allergies, since you really don't contact them as much as you do the strings.

As for your amp - I'll keep an eye out for the schematic, but there isn't much info on the Fame Series 15.

 

[ellengtrgrl]

You might want to check with your dentist and examine his records. Some crowns are alloyed with nickle, reactions especially with women are not uncommon.

Hmm, interesting. I'll have to ask, the next time I go to the dentist. Thanks for the info.

 

[gsaddict]

On the R you can also drill a hole thru your starter cover and mount the parts below. There is a PDF file (322KB) at ADVwisdom that shows the install. If the link doesn't work google 'r1150 mount 61 13 7 671 355'
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...wUomKMTuUVK6cWQ&bvm=bv.69411363,d.b2k&cad=rja

08 61 13 7 671 355 BRACKET (from 08/03) $6.98
09 61 13 7 671 354 EARTH PIN - M6X10 (from 08/03) $9.77
10 61 13 7 672 395 PROTECTION CAP (from 08/03) $3.95

BE CAREFUL - that ADV .pdf shows the bracket installed backwards !!!
I notified them but they have not fixed as of yet.

This link shows the bracket the right way around.
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/Oilhead Starter mod.html

 

[globalrider]

Is there any reason why it can't be installed and located on the starter cover as it is on my R1150 GS Adventure?

Here are my Battery Boosting Lug Install if you choose to install one on the starter cover.

 

[ellengtrgrl]

Is there any reason why it can't be installed and located on the starter cover as it is on my R1150 GS Adventure?

Here are my Battery Boosting Lug Install if you choose to install one on the starter cover.

Hmmm, that's a possbility. I haven't had much time (due to work commitments - I'm writing this at 4:35 AM, as I'm getting ready to head out to work), to do any additional work on my R1150R, much less go riding. I'll check more closely this weekend. The crux of the issue, is going to be when my R1150R was made in 2004. If it's one of the earlier ones, the chances are good that it has no factory installed jump starter lugs. As it is, due to the battery being dead for so long (about 6 1/2 months), it may be wise to replace it. Thanks for the photo showing where to look for the jump starter lugs.

 

[ellengtrgrl]

Hmmm, that's a possbility. I haven't had much time (due to work commitments - I'm writing this at 4:35 AM, as I'm getting ready to head out to work), to do any additional work on my R1150R, much less go riding. I'll check more closely this weekend. The crux of the issue, is going to be when my R1150R was made in 2004. If it's one of the earlier ones, the chances are good that it has no factory installed jump starter lugs. As it is, due to the battery being dead for so long (about 6 1/2 months), it may be wise to replace it. Thanks for the photo showing where to look for the jump starter lugs.

Wouldn't you know it! I park my R1150R crosswise, in front of my car, in my (underground apartment garage) parking space. What did I see when I turned on my car's lights before I backed out of my parking space? - two black plastic covers staring at me, one of which had a nice, big "+" sign on it! Can you say duh? Sure you can! I knew you could!

GlobalRider - thanks, for the photo, showing what the jump start lug covers look like, and where they're located. It looks like I can at least get the bike going, and get in some riding, until I get a new battery installed. It'll be nice to go riding on my R1150R during the extended 4th of July holiday weekend (I have off from work on both July 3, and July 4).

 

[pauls1150]

One of the big concerns was that Ellen doesn't have a place to work on the bike -
If there's not a BMW-specific group in your area, also check out Women On Wheels:
https://www.womenonwheels.org/statehtml/wisconsin.html

 

[happy wanderer]

Wouldn't you know it! I park my R1150R crosswise, in front of my car, in my (underground apartment garage) parking space. What did I see when I turned on my car's lights before I backed out of my parking space? - two black plastic covers staring at me, one of which had a nice, big "+" sign on it! Can you say duh? Sure you can! I knew you could!

GlobalRider - thanks, for the photo, showing what the jump start lug covers look like, and where they're located. It looks like I can at least get the bike going, and get in some riding, until I get a new battery installed. It'll be nice to go riding on my R1150R during the extended 4th of July holiday weekend (I have off from work on both July 3, and July 4).

As long as the riding is non stop and local I guess you could but you'll need to carry a set of jumper cables everywhere you go. A battery that has been sitting for six months discharged is not likely to take a charge and come back to life.