MOTO light install..

[iambob]

OK, so I've installed the MotoLights onto my RT.

I cut off the relay and the switch, and about 10 feet of wire, and ran the power and ground directly to the AP1 fuse panel (it runs through a 70AMP relay).

Am I getting all the light I should be getting with this set-up?

And 2, I know with this set up I'm running the lights ALL the time. How would I wire an inline switch, and would the switch that came with the lights work? Or does it work hand in hand with the relay?

 

[Semper_Fi]

OK, so I've installed the MotoLights onto my RT.

I cut off the relay and the switch, and about 10 feet of wire, and ran the power and ground directly to the AP1 fuse panel (it runs through a 70AMP relay).

Am I getting all the light I should be getting with this set-up?

The amount of power (volts X watts) will be dependent on the fuse you select on the AP1 fuse panel.

A 5 amp fuse will yeild 12 V X 5 Amp = 60 Watts.

A 10 amp fues will yeild 12V X 10 Amp = 120 Watts

A 20 amp fuse will yeild 12V x 20 Amps = 240 Watts

What is the power requirment of your lights?

And 2, I know with this set up I'm running the lights ALL the time. How would I wire an inline switch, and would the switch that came with the lights work? Or does it work hand in hand with the relay?

I am assuming the manufacturer would have provided at least the minimum switch rated for your lights, e.g, your lights consume 100W, they would have provided a 100W switch, usually rule of thumb is 10% over.

You can wire an inline switch in series with either the power wire or the ground wire that goes to your lights, the switch would then be used to control the current flow to the lights and turn them on/off.

A series connection would be that you take (for example) the power wire and cut it where you want the switch, one end would go to one of the switch, and the other end would go to the end of the switch that would be activated when the switch is either engaged or disengaged, thereby interupting the circuit so you can turn it on and off.

The relay of the AP1 only provides power to the fuse panel, two seperate circuits.

Luis

 

[marchyman]

The manufacturer provids a switch to control the relay. The switch is not intended to handle the entire 100 watts (assuming 50W bulbs, otherwise 70 watts) that is present between power source and lights.

If you want to add a switch put the relay back. You can power the relay (both power and control leads) from the AP1. I've done something similar using my Hella fog lights and a Fuzeblock:

 

[iambob]

The amount of power (volts X watts) will be dependent on the fuse you select on the AP1 fuse panel.

A 5 amp fuse will yeild 12 V X 5 Amp = 60 Watts.

A 10 amp fues will yeild 12V X 10 Amp = 120 Watts

A 20 amp fuse will yeild 12V x 20 Amps = 240 Watts

What is the power requirment of your lights?




I am assuming the manufacturer would have provided at least the minimum switch rated for your lights, e.g, your lights consume 100W, they would have provided a 100W switch, usually rule of thumb is 10% over.

You can wire an inline switch in series with either the power wire or the ground wire that goes to your lights, the switch would then be used to control the current flow to the lights and turn them on/off.

A series connection would be that you take (for example) the power wire and cut it where you want the switch, one end would go to one of the switch, and the other end would go to the end of the switch that would be activated when the switch is either engaged or disengaged, thereby interupting the circuit so you can turn it on and off.

The relay of the AP1 only provides power to the fuse panel, two seperate circuits.

Luis

Lights are 35w apiece.. so I think I'm good there.

That's what I thought about the switch, but figured I had light, wasn't going to mess it up..


and Damn if you aren't making hard to talk bad about the Marines..

Bob

 

[iambob]

Oh, AND..

I've got my laptop in the garage, and followed your pictorial to get off all the plastic.. SPOT ON!!

AND the gas tank..

And while I'm here re-ran the switching wire for the AP1 made it nicer looking, installed HIDs in the Low Beam..

Now I'm going to put the tank on it, put the seat on it, and run around on my rat bike see if everything still works.

 

[Semper_Fi]

and Damn if you aren't making hard to talk bad about the Marines..

Bob

Always here to help.

Glad you found everything useful.

Hooorah!!

 

[Semper_Fi]

Lights are 35w apiece.. so I think I'm good there.

Bob - Marchyman is right the switch is not meant to handle 70 Watts, if two lights, so would you need to wire in a relay to handle the power load of the lights and use the light switch to activate the relay controlling the load to the lights.

If indeed you have such a switch you should be fine, if not wire up something similar to what was posted.

Any issues or concerns pm me.

Luis

 

[Motorwerk]

I had the dealer install the Motolights before delivery. Never cared for the supplied switch because of the size and no indication that the lights were on.

Replaced the switch with an Autoswitch that's connected to the relay and triggered by the turn signal cancel switch. It also has a bi-colored LED to indicate circuit applied power (red) and lights on (green). Works great, unobtrusive hidden and simple activation and inexpensive.

 

[iambob]

Bob - Marchyman is right the switch is not meant to handle 70 Watts, if two lights, so would you need to wire in a relay to handle the power load of the lights and use the light switch to activate the relay controlling the load to the lights.

If indeed you have such a switch you should be fine, if not wire up something similar to what was posted.

Any issues or concerns pm me.

Luis

Well, I got the relay and the switch that came with the MotoLights..

They work, they're installed, I just have to remember I can't shut them off!!

The HIDs kick serious butt though.. didn't get the yellow lenses with the MotoLights, but you'd think I did.

 

[iambob]

I had the dealer install the Motolights before delivery. Never cared for the supplied switch because of the size and no indication that the lights were on.

Replaced the switch with an Autoswitch that's connected to the relay and triggered by the turn signal cancel switch. It also has a bi-colored LED to indicate circuit applied power (red) and lights on (green). Works great, unobtrusive hidden and simple activation and inexpensive.

The switch that came with the MotoLights has an LED now.. BUT called Morton's they told me NO AutoSwitch for the 09s..

 

[iambob]

Tried to get a picture of the Motos and the HIDs... the pictures don't do the HIDs justice.. (6000k)

And the CenTEch install, with the lights running directly to it.. ALWAYS on..

 

[Semper_Fi]

Nice job Bob

Lights look great and the Centech install look very neat.

I think one or two adult beverages are in order

 

[Motorwerk]

The switch that came with the MotoLights has an LED now.. BUT called Morton's they told me NO AutoSwitch for the 09s..

That's good that they now include an LED. I imagine it's because of the turn signal change to the '09's. BTW the HIDs look great.

 

[Tbone221]

HID upgrade

Do the HIDs annoy folks at night (flashing their brights...)? I upgraded my last ride and started wondering if all the highbeam flashes were worth the extra visibility?

Which brand did you purchase?

Tom

 

[PGlaves]

I would take the +12v TO the Motolights switch from an ignition switch switched source. The parking lamp or tail lamp are time honored locations for this connection. The other wire from the switch goes to #85 at the relay.

If you do this turning the key off turns the Motolights off without having to manually do it with the Motolights switch. But if you want to turn the Motolights off with their switch you can.

 

[beemermyke]

"Tried to get a picture of the Motos and the HIDs... the pictures don't do the HIDs justice..."

I couldn't make out that first pic very well... is your bike parked behind that UFO?

 

[1analguy]

Wunderlich offers a nifty device (part no.: 8600217) that allows you to turn lights (or whatever) on/off by holding down your turn-signal-cancel switch for more than one second...

 

[Semper_Fi]

Do the HIDs annoy folks at night (flashing their brights...)? I upgraded my last ride and started wondering if all the highbeam flashes were worth the extra visibility?

Which brand did you purchase?

Tom

Can you adjust the placement of the lights so they don't illumunate the wrong areas?

 

[iambob]

Can you adjust the placement of the lights so they don't illumunate the wrong areas?

Up down yes, I don't know of any left to right headlight adjustment..

 

[iambob]

Do the HIDs annoy folks at night (flashing their brights...)? I upgraded my last ride and started wondering if all the highbeam flashes were worth the extra visibility?

Which brand did you purchase?

Tom

I've had a few people pull over and let me by.. but haven't had anyone flash their highbeams.

XenonRider is the brand i chose. A little more $$$ but worth it in my book.

Just got done with the 6k service, no faults, no errors, and the dealer had no issues with the lights. I have ONE Can-BUS friendly ballast, and two Not friendly, and no faults with any of them.


OK, so that's the front end..

For the back end I added Hyperlights, and the GIVI MAXIA E55 with optional lights. I ran the GIVI lights through the Hyperlight controller so now I have running lights high(GIVI) and low(Hyperlights) as well as four in unison flashing brake lights!!