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Loose fastners on my 2018 RT

motor10

New member
So, I have a 2018 R1200RT that I bought new in September of 2018 after a bad wreck. Due to recovery, PT, pain, surgery pain, accident induced lack of confidence, and some continuous hand pain, I started this summer off with only 2500 miles on the bike. I have put another 2000 miles on this summer so far. Yesterday, I took a ride, with no destination, before going to a friends for dinner. While out exploring, I stopped in a neat little town know as Fairview Beach VA. I stopped took a photo and as I remounted I noticed my right side Wunderlich rear crash bar seemed off angle. When I grabbed it the bar moved. I checked it out and the 2 top bolts were completely gone. These bars were put on before the bike was even delivered to me by Morton's BMW. I rode to my buddy's house. During dinner I mentioned it and after dinner we replaced the bolts. He use to be a BMW MC mechanic years ago when he lived in Florida so he had actual BMW bolts.

This morning I went out got my tools and started fiddling about with tightening fasteners. I was shocked by how loose a lot of the torx and hex head bolts were lose on body panels, handle bars, controls on the handle bars, and all the crash bars. I have a service scheduled for July 16th and I will bring it up to them, but am concerned since I've never had fastners come loose like this on all the Japanese made bikes I've owned .

Is this normal?

If so how often do you all check your fasteners?

Do you think its vibration causing them to loosen up?

When the dealership does the service do they normally tighten fasteners?

Thoughts and opinions welcomed.

Fairview Beach.jpg

Jay
 
Your situation is not normal and yes the dealer should have properly tightened all of the fasteners. Tighten them and move on and enjoy riding the bike. No big deal.
 
Hi Jay,

Yes for sure let them know what happen. The bolts your friend you used aren't correct unless he compensated for the thickness of the bar and lock nut washer needed to be installed. They are a good dealer and I'm sure will correct any issues.
 
Except for the fasteners used to hold the plastic fairings on, I use a dab of torque-seal on every bolt(after it’s been properly torqued).
 
Loctite is your friend. Be glad you don't ride a 640! Pretty much every bolt has to have Loctite or you will lose them. I think I was 9 bolts short at the end of one trip. :ha
 
In a jam, a piece of black electrical tape (I like 3M 33+) puts some nice, non- permanent retention on hardware. Just let it screw in a bit like you were Teflon taping a fitting.
OM
 
Loctite is your friend. Be glad you don't ride a 640! Pretty much every bolt has to have Loctite or you will lose them. I think I was 9 bolts short at the end of one trip. :ha

Or a 690 -- I've had to cover the back of the license plate with silicone seal because it was almost cracked through from vibration.
 
Hi Jay,

Yes for sure let them know what happen. The bolts your friend you used aren't correct unless he compensated for the thickness of the bar and lock nut washer needed to be installed. They are a good dealer and I'm sure will correct any issues.

I said to use a lock nut washer because it's on the included parts list, see attached.
 

Attachments

  • 20450103.pdf
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Except for the fasteners used to hold the plastic fairings on, I use a dab of torque-seal on every bolt(after it’s been properly torqued).

I had to look up torque-seal :)

Application of “Torque Seal”

Step 1: Select a colour.
Step 2: Torque the Fastener / or ensure it is tight.
Torque wrench myths.
Step 3: Ensure the bolt is clean.
Apply the “Torque Seal”
Wait 2-3 hours for “Torque seal” to cure.
The brittle “Torque Seal” will crack if the fastening loosens.

prod_gallery_20191219163553_CrossCheckTorqueSeal.jpg
 
Do use Loctite on plastic parts. It will eat the plastic! I learn the HARD way. :banghead
Did you mean, Do not use on plastic parts?
On my old Norton if the nut is not wired, I mark all the nuts with red marker. This has worked for me since 1978.
 
Pretty sure he meant Do Not.
It should not be a problem with the body panels as the fasteners thread into a metal C-Clip.
. Note: If a little bit of Loctite touches the plastic when you are attempting to put the metal screw onto the metal C clip, it will EAT the plastic. (This is what I meant.)
 
A thread locking product is often suggested in applications where vibrations are present. Motorcycles (even those that seem to run very smoothly) vibrate!

Loctite is a product that is commonly used to secure fasteners. There are different types of loctite. It is important to use the correct type for your application. The type that I use most commonly is the "Blue" loctite. I use this, for example, on the bolts used to connect the driveshaft to the transmission output in my airhead motorcycles. Another type is the "Red" loctite. This stuff is of a pretty high strength and requires application of heat to help release it so a fastener can be removed. This stuff can damage threads if heat is not applied on removal. BMW used this stuff to secure nuts and pins on some single sided swingarm pivots; I don't think that red loctite is recommended for use on re-assembly.

Following are images of blue and red loctite. These products can be obtained at most autoparts and hardware stores, and of course from the 'Zon -

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heav...hild=1&keywords=loctite&qid=1625742686&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thre...hild=1&keywords=loctite&qid=1625742686&sr=8-9

blue loctite.jpgred loctite.jpg
 
For plastic or anything near it, or even the clipnuts (nutclips?) - silicone sealant. And you can even use a color that (almost) matches!
 
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