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How big a job is it to replace the neutral switch in a R90/6?
- Thread starter rbryson
- Start date
Neutral Switch
The right way to it is to remove the gearbox. However, it is common practice to remove the rear engine mounting stud, pry the spacer below the switch out and replace the switch. Getting the spacer back in is challenging. Don't yield to the temptation of shortening the spacer. The sealing washer on the switch is unique to it; make sure you have one on hand. If your gearbox has a "shift kit" in it, you'll need a late model switch.
The right way to it is to remove the gearbox. However, it is common practice to remove the rear engine mounting stud, pry the spacer below the switch out and replace the switch. Getting the spacer back in is challenging. Don't yield to the temptation of shortening the spacer. The sealing washer on the switch is unique to it; make sure you have one on hand. If your gearbox has a "shift kit" in it, you'll need a late model switch.
You should confirm that the switch is the problem. Remove the wire to the switch and touch the contacts to ground with the ignition on, bike not started. If light comes on, then it's the switch. If it doesn't come on, then it's the wiring. When installing the new switch, don't tighten it too much, snug at first and then if it needs to be tightened some, go easy. Also, be sure the new switch fixes the problem before you install the spacer!
If you order a new switch, be sure you get the right one. I think there may be 2-3 different switches.
As for putting the engine spacer back in, it's been suggested that you chamfer the edges a bit to help get the spacer started. Also, freeze the spacer for an hour or so before you install it. It should slip in with a little bit of tapping.
If you order a new switch, be sure you get the right one. I think there may be 2-3 different switches.
As for putting the engine spacer back in, it's been suggested that you chamfer the edges a bit to help get the spacer started. Also, freeze the spacer for an hour or so before you install it. It should slip in with a little bit of tapping.
danielroth
don't think
right on
ole '74 hit it right on. Make sure the switch needs to be replaced by testing the wiring.
The bracket on the inside of the transmission could also be the culprit, in which case I personally would not open the case just for the neutral light (now I'm not sure how a 5-speed triggers the neutral, I'm a /5er but you may still have an internal problem).
I wouldn't replace the switch if it were only leaking a drop or two after sitting and the fluid level in the case wasn't lowering after several long rides.
Obviously you don't have any problems engaging the starting circuit, I would let it go and make it part of a thorough spline lube job. I always have practiced pulling the clutch before engaging the starter after that one time on a Honda 500/4 when I was a kid.
ole '74 hit it right on. Make sure the switch needs to be replaced by testing the wiring.
The bracket on the inside of the transmission could also be the culprit, in which case I personally would not open the case just for the neutral light (now I'm not sure how a 5-speed triggers the neutral, I'm a /5er but you may still have an internal problem).
I wouldn't replace the switch if it were only leaking a drop or two after sitting and the fluid level in the case wasn't lowering after several long rides.
Obviously you don't have any problems engaging the starting circuit, I would let it go and make it part of a thorough spline lube job. I always have practiced pulling the clutch before engaging the starter after that one time on a Honda 500/4 when I was a kid.
flash412
Loose Cannon
Don't forget to drain the transmission BEFORE you remove the switch.
Don't forget to put a bottle jack under the engine BEFORE you remove the rear engine mount bolt.
Don't jack up that jack TOO high or the bike will fall off the centerstand.
Don't over-tighten the new switch or it will leak.
Be sure to plug the wires onto the switch BEFORE you reinstall the big spacer.
Chamfering the leading edges of the spacer and freezing it before reassembly make this job easy.
Don't forget to put a bottle jack under the engine BEFORE you remove the rear engine mount bolt.
Don't jack up that jack TOO high or the bike will fall off the centerstand.
Don't over-tighten the new switch or it will leak.
Be sure to plug the wires onto the switch BEFORE you reinstall the big spacer.
Chamfering the leading edges of the spacer and freezing it before reassembly make this job easy.
S
sumran
Guest
Thanks. Looks like it is more complicated than replacing the oil pressure switch. I need a sprine lubie anyway, so I'll wait and replace it at the same time. I will take all of the suggestions to my mechanic. He is a good guy and will not be insulted by your suggestions. My only concern is finding the right switch. Do believe I'll call MAX BMW to make sure. Cheers.
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