Fuel line>>>what type and where

[laww95]

I replaced the quick release fuel line connectors on my R1150RT several years ago and my fuel leak went away...or so I thought. It is back and appears to be coming from the fuel line/coupler connection. I had replaced this line when I when I installed the new metal male connector with automotive grade fuel line from the local NAPA store. Upon closer inspection I realized this new line is already cracking and looks in bad shape. I don't want to do this again but I also do not want to buy the "gold plated" BMW replacement fuel line pieces. Looking at several generic motorcyle parts suppliers I see many of the replacement lines marked as not for use with fuel injected bikes. My questions are>>>

1- what type of line should I be using?

2- any recommended sources?

2- any input or advice for doing the install- such as using white lithium on connections, etc.

Thanks for the input

 

[waxer109452]

Got mine from Beemer Boneyard, external fuel line only for fuel injected bikes. I wouldn't use any grease on the fittings.

 

[laww95]

Thanks Mark, I have never checked out this site...they had a nice kit with hose and clamps. Clamps aren't stainless but think I will give it a shot, will wait a bit to see if there are other options offered. I welcome any additional feedback from all.

 

[23217]

I have been using R14 Teflon (PTFE) Hose for years on both cars, trucks, and motorcycles with fuel injection systems. The R14 hose is probably overkill for most people, but it will outlast my bike.

You can look at and buy R14 hose line here. You will not be able to get it from NAPA or other parts store.

One note about the line. It is difficult to cut. You have to wrap the place where you want to cut it with duct tape. Then cut it with a electric chop saw. Then you have to carefully remove the duct tape. Otherwise the braided stainless steel will look awful and cut you when you put the connectors on. If you don't have access to a chop saw, don't use it. Often times I will cut the line slightly too long. Then insert a bar inside the teflon line and recut it so that it looks perfect. I then clean the line with air and gas (in that order). Do NOT clean it with gas and then place it under air pressure!

R14 line handles temperatures from -65 to 450F. Handles vibrations very well. Can handle psi loads up to 12,000psi.

They also have some very nice reusable connectors that look great and work well.

You should never put grease on the connectors. If you are afraid of the connectors threads leaking use good quality PTFE paste specifically designed for hydraulic hoses. But, the pressure is way too low for this kind of problem, so I wouldn't worry about it. You can also use PTFE tape (Teflon tape).

 

[queretaro]

I purchased hose rated for fuel injection systems at a local - to me - auto parts store (Fairfax Auto). If my memory serves, I needed 8mm ID. However, the store did not have any metric hose, so I chose 3/8". No leaks in over 2 years. 5/16" is even closer to 8mm; if you can find it.

 

[JimMoore]

Yep. Pretty much any auto parts store will have it. Costs a couple bucks per foot.

 

[queretaro]

Yep. Pretty much any auto parts store will have it. Costs a couple bucks per foot.

Yes it is considerably more expensive than regular fuel line. So if the clerk hands you something costing pennies/foot, it is not what you want.

 

[wzellwzell@yahoo.com]

I just installed Spiegler brake lines. Custom cut for your bike. Pricy but in my opinion worth it for the extra stoping power. Also a great company to deal with.
Spieglerusa.com

 

[ANDYVH]

I work for Parker Hannifin (worlds largest Hydraulics supplier) as a sales engineer and have used PTFE style hose on many projects. It is a bit pricey but looks great and is very durable and chemical resistant. Teflon as a hose inner tube material is the most chemically capable for just about anything and is very heat resistant.

When I make hose assemblies with PTFE hose, I wrap the hose in the cut area with about 1.5 wraps of clear nylon reinforced tape, wrapped tight onto the hose. Then mark the hose to cut on the tape and use a hydraulic hose saw or chop saw (not a good choice, but next best) and cut through the tape/hose on the mark. Never attempt to cut it with a hacksaw no matter on fine the blade. A steel wire cutting saw blade works best. Large bolt-cutters "may" work but it will crush/distort the wires and inner tube.

It is actually BETTER to leave the tape on the hose for either a re-useable style or crimp on style hose end, in fact Parker recommneds leaving the tape in place. The tape itself has no impact on the grip capability of the hose end. By leaving the tape in place it minimizes the stainless steel wire flaring out or unbraiding. I have made hundreds of hose assemblies this way with no failures.

 

[bikerfish1100]

I just installed Spiegler brake lines. Custom cut for your bike. Pricy but in my opinion worth it for the extra stoping power. Also a great company to deal with.
Spieglerusa.com

and this relates to fuel lines- how?

 

[23217]

I will have to try the clear nylon reinforced tape next time. Leaving the tape on will be much easier. Thanks for the tip.

I really like the reusable connectors, but they are a little pricey. But, the overall finished project is very impressive. I now only use R14 PTFE line. The rubber high pressure lines just don't hold up over time, and the risk of fire is too high. I prefer a permanent solution that I don't have to worry about.

Yes, a hack saw will not work. It makes a horrible mess out of the braided line. I have seen people use a 4-1/2" disk grinder with a metal cutting blade if they didn't have a chop saw. A hydraulic hose cutter is very nice, but too pricey for me. I only make 10-20 hoses per year.