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Frt fork cap-removable??

153731

New member
I am wanting to check/replace my fork oil on my 2005 R1200ST. At the fork tube top, it has, What appears to be a conventional removable hex cap. With my best efforts, and a really tight triple clamp pinch bolt, the tube still rotates when trying to turn the cap off. I looked at schematics of the tube and it does not show a cap seperate. Anybody know if it is a 1 pc unit? if not, what is the trick to the cap removal?


Thanks in advance for any and all help/advice given.

Happy Holidays to all!
 
I have not seen the forks be a service item on the R bikes.... maybe it is.

Regarding that the actual suspension is done by the front shock in the frame.

Anyway I have found this information in the repair CD from BMW.

here is how the top is removed
K29_R31011c_small.jpg


They also have this important warning:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Attention
The slider tube will develop an irreparable leak if the threaded fastener in the quick-release axle bore of the slider tube is slackened. This fastener secures the displacer - it is not an oil drain plug.

Do not slacken the securing screw in the quick-release axle bore of the slider tube
.

Process
To drain the oil turn the slider tube over and catch the escaping oil.
Carefully pry out sealing boot (3).
Remove circlip (4).
Remove shaft sealing ring (5) with inside puller (No. 00 8 561), thread adapter (No. 00 8 564), pull rod (No. 13 5 251) and impact weight (No. 13 5 253).

This is the tube's internals with the applicable tools needed
K27_R31024b_small.jpg


Fluid requirment

Capacity, fork oil per fork leg
0.65 l

Hydraulic fluid SAE 10
 
I am wanting to check/replace my fork oil on my 2005 R1200ST. At the fork tube top, it has, What appears to be a conventional removable hex cap. With my best efforts, and a really tight triple clamp pinch bolt, the tube still rotates when trying to turn the cap off. I looked at schematics of the tube and it does not show a cap seperate. Anybody know if it is a 1 pc unit? if not, what is the trick to the cap removal?


Thanks in advance for any and all help/advice given.

Happy Holidays to all!
The cap at the top of the leg is NOT removable -- IIRC, it is staked in place.

While the excerpt above shows the correct approach (basically, slide the lower off and turn upside down to drain), the first question is why do it?

These forks have "lifetime" fill, because there are no damping bits in the tubes -- they are literally nothing more than concentric hollow tubes (all of the damping is performed by the Telelever shock). The oil is there for only one purpose -- to lubricate the slider/tube contact surfaces.

Without anything in the tube to degrade, there's no reason to change the fluid (e.g., even if a heavier fork fluid is put in to alter damping, no damping change will result).

HTH,
Mark
 
The cap at the top of the leg is NOT removable -- IIRC, it is staked in place.

While the excerpt above shows the correct approach (basically, slide the lower off and turn upside down to drain), the first question is why do it?

These forks have "lifetime" fill, because there are no damping bits in the tubes -- they are literally nothing more than concentric hollow tubes (all of the damping is performed by the Telelever shock). The oil is there for only one purpose -- to lubricate the slider/tube contact surfaces.

Without anything in the tube to degrade, there's no reason to change the fluid (e.g., even if a heavier fork fluid is put in to alter damping, no damping change will result).

HTH,
Mark

Agree 100%
 
However, I did have seals leak on my R1100rt. The dealership replaced them and advised me to wipe off the forks occasionally. The dirt that gathers on the forks can eventually cause the seals to leak.
 
And don't wax the fork tubes!

I did that on my K75 and the wax built up in the seals caused them to leak. I just wipe them down and the have been fine for years. Waxing the sliders is fine.

Scott
 
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