My front cam seal on my 76 R90/6 has been leaking for a few years so this winter I decided to replace it after viewing Brooks excellent article for replacing this seal. All went really well as the old seal came out pretty easily with out heat, but this is where I screwed up. I tapped the new seal in with an appropriate size socket thinking the seal would stop when it reached the right depth, wrong. the new seal is now about 1/4 " below being flush with the metal surround, any suggestions? the new seal went in very easily but I'm afraid I will Destroy it trying to pull it back out to the proper depth. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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front cam seal replacement, replacement problem.
- Thread starter willyb
- Start date
I am not sure that a seal, any seal, survives extraction un-damaged. The only way I can envision an extraction that would not damage the new seal would be to pull the timing cover and drive the seal out from the inside. I would get another new seal and try again before I did that.
If it were my bike, I'd be tempted to run it as is and monitor for seepage.
If it were my bike, I'd be tempted to run it as is and monitor for seepage.
Last edited:
stevenrankin
Active member
Seal
I agree with James, I have yet to remove a seal without some kind of damage. Of course, I am not a patient person, rip and tear is my motto with seals. The odds may be against getting the seal out without damage but I bet someone with infinite patience and a steady hand might be able to do it.
For now, I would remove and replace, but that is based on what you write about how far off it is.
It has been a long time since I replaced this seal and I can't remember the way things go together. I think the seal on the shaft would not be a problem, what is behind the seal? Is there anything that would rub on the seal in the back/internal? IF there is nothing rubbing the seal, you could just ride and as James says monitor.
Not a lot of help, sorry, good luck. St.
I agree with James, I have yet to remove a seal without some kind of damage. Of course, I am not a patient person, rip and tear is my motto with seals. The odds may be against getting the seal out without damage but I bet someone with infinite patience and a steady hand might be able to do it.
For now, I would remove and replace, but that is based on what you write about how far off it is.
It has been a long time since I replaced this seal and I can't remember the way things go together. I think the seal on the shaft would not be a problem, what is behind the seal? Is there anything that would rub on the seal in the back/internal? IF there is nothing rubbing the seal, you could just ride and as James says monitor.
Not a lot of help, sorry, good luck. St.
Ordered new seal
THANKS JAMES
I FIGURED I WOULD NEED A NEW SEAL, so just ordered one, I'll have to dig out the one I drove in to far and install the new one flush with the casing. Not worth going through all the work of removing the timing cover to save the one I botched. Lesson learned.
THANKS JAMES
I FIGURED I WOULD NEED A NEW SEAL, so just ordered one, I'll have to dig out the one I drove in to far and install the new one flush with the casing. Not worth going through all the work of removing the timing cover to save the one I botched. Lesson learned.
pglaves
#13338
A trick I have used when I don't have the correct size actual seal driver is to use a socket. But I use a socket that is larger than the seal, and insert an extension "backwards" in the socket so the flat end of the socket is bearing against the seal. Thus, when the socket reaches the case the seal is flush.
This of course assumes there is not a shaft in the way to interfere. If so then still use a slightly oversize socket so as to not drive the seal too deep.
Along with Paul's recommendations, there are quite a few size possibilities for seal drivers in the plumbing PVC and electrical PVC fitting bins at the local big box stores. I find the first use/first edge is all you will get out of the PVC which is okay.
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