down shift 86 k100

[yankeeone]

Hi, I have an 86 k100 that I have justr put together with 85 motor, all has been good till today, 4000 miles since work, when I run hard through the gears 7-6 thou rpm , the bike is very difficult to down shift from forth or fifth, ridden normal no problems , I used a moly grease that came from Brunos with a rebuilt rear drive on my k75. Think it needs clutch spline lube, or weirdness with shift drum?
Thanks
Brian

 

[beemer01]

input spline?

When I applied (sparingly) moly grease to my input spline my shifting on my '85 K significantly improved.

Input spline is harder to access - did you do this when you replaced the engine?

 

[yankeeone]

Right, about four thousand miles ago I put it together. The gears seem to stick if I go up hard, then ride steady in fifth/fourth for awhile then when I am slowing for a turn ect. it is hard to get out of fifth/fourth.

Thanks
Brian

 

[58058D]

Have you checked your clutch adjustment to be sure it is still fully disengaging? When you ride 'normal', it downshifts easily from fourth or fifth at those RPMs, but is 'stiff' only after romping on the throttle to get there?

 

[yankeeone]

" but is 'stiff' only after romping on the throttle to get there?"

Right.
Thanks
Brian

 

[hhshort]

Blip the Throttle

When the shift seems to stick. With some pressure on the lever, blip the trolttle in the double clutching fashion, if the shift can be done without unususal pressure, you are going to do a spine lube this winter

I have a bike that went 75K on white lube and I redid it with Honda moly60 and Synthetic EP chassis lube and 4K later this winter I will be redoing it. This time it will not take me as long.

 

[yankeeone]

Thanks, I searched the forum for clutch spline, and this seems to be the problem.
I guess the straight molly can"t take the heat, rpm's. Of course I had put new synt. oil in the trans the night before, so that kind of thru me off, It does seem strange that its almost frozen in the upper gear but once you get it out of that gear it goes into the lower gear with out issue. I had put the bike together clean but not real clean, I wanted to make sure it ran before I spent a lot of time buffing ect, as I got the bike with problems and put ebay motor in it , which runs great.
So now I will take it down wire brush the cases, lube it and go. I'll ride K75 c which I went thru two years ago and had a great trip to Nova Scotia this summer with the wife.

Thanks
Brian

 

[yankeeone]

Opened her up ---dry as a bone

 

[2xcelr8]

When the shift seems to stick. With some pressure on the lever, blip the trolttle in the double clutching fashion, if the shift can be done without unususal pressure, you are going to do a spine lube this winter

I have a bike that went 75K on white lube and I redid it with Honda moly60 and Synthetic EP chassis lube and 4K later this winter I will be redoing it. This time it will not take me as long.

What is the white lube?

 

[hhshort]

White lube

LubriPlate White lithium grease. At one time it was the BMW recommended lube for splines. It was used by a dealer that I had do the spine lube job for me and ran for 75k miles with no shifting problems and was found to be still be in place when I did the job myself. I used honda moly60 and synthetic EP chassis grease and now I have shifting problems 4k later. As I said--- I will be redoing it this winter but it will be easyer this time. I will use Guard Dog which is 30% solid lubricant. I assume that means 30% moly. Who could believe that these fine old machines could get so finicky.

 

[pglaves]

What is the white lube?

Over the years BMW spec'd two lubes that were white. One was a Stabarugs paste and the other an Optimoly paste. Both stayed put pretty well but didn't lubricate well at all. So soon you would have a grayish colored paste made up of metal grindings and sticky white paste. It then resembled and acted like valve grinding compound.

As I wrote in last month's Owners News I had (again) less than good luck with straight Honda Moly 60. I am now using GD525 Grease from Guard Dog Moly and like it.

 

[hhshort]

Norman said ?

When asked what lube did you use? Norman said we use a white lube that is recommended by BMW. With out asking brand I assumed a genaric white lithium lube. That occured 1/96. I kinda forgot it till 1/09 when I nerved up to do the job my self. When I got inside there was this white grease on the clutch spline and the univesal splines. By my estimation the the splines are perfect. I did the spline lube because the rear main was leaking not because of shifting problems. Now I have shifting problems.

 

[yankeeone]

I took bike for a ride this morning and shifts great. I think the splines on the clutch disk are worn , so maybe the play in there allowed the grease to get thrown out so quickly . That was the clutch that came with the motor. I'll put in new clutch and rear seal this winter.

Good for now,
Brian

 

[deilenberger]

Good for now,
Brian

Unfortunately - probably not good for too long. If you replace only the clutch disk, without replacing the transmission input shaft - the new disk will very quickly wear to the same condition as the disk you took off. Reason being - the very small contact area between a worn spline and a new spline. Both become worn.

On the Honda Moly-60 front - I had better luck than Paul did using it.

I used it on my '85 K100RT - and AFAIK - it's still there still working about 30k miles later (the bike never seems to leave my area - it's had 3-4 owners since I owned it, and it keeps reappearing at various BMW events..) and my '87 K75S had about 30k miles on the Honda Moly when I replaced the rear seal and re-did the lube.

The lube on the K75S looked just fine, and didn't need replacement (although I did since I had it all apart.) When I did the relube on the K75 - I used a mix of Wurth-3000 and the Honda-Moly (on Paul's recommendation.) The Wurth grease is the stickiest grease I've ever seen, it's like chewing gum. A friend now owns the bike, and he hasn't had any shifting complaints, so I'm guessing it's working.

YMMV.. but I suspect a good quality moly-based grease designed for sliding spline applications (like constant-velocity-joint greases) should work fine for the splines if there isn't an alignment problem. If there is an alignment problem - all bets are off..

 

[yankeeone]

HI, the input spline on the trans is in pretty good shape, as the trans and clutch were not together till a few thou. miles ago, I will put the clutch from the motor that goes with that trans. soon. I put the bike together as is to see if the motor from ebay would even work. It does, Well.
Thanks,
Brian

 

[pglaves]

When asked what lube did you use? Norman said we use a white lube that is recommended by BMW. With out asking brand I assumed a genaric white lithium lube. That occured 1/96. I kinda forgot it till 1/09 when I nerved up to do the job my self. When I got inside there was this white grease on the clutch spline and the univesal splines. By my estimation the the splines are perfect. I did the spline lube because the rear main was leaking not because of shifting problems. Now I have shifting problems.

Well, in 1994 BMW was specifying the following:

Optimoly MP3 Lubricating Paste for clutch splines.

The manual for my 2003 R1150R says the same thing.

I now use Guard Dog GD525 Moly Grease, or the HM60/Wurth 3000 combination of which I still have some.

 

[hhshort]

Guard Dog GD525

is what I have on the shelf for this winters maintenence

 

[yankeeone]

On the clutch issue, What would be shopping list to replace rear main seal, (I have clutch, pressure plate ect. ) on 86k100rt. Assuming all goes well.
Thanks
Brian

 

[deilenberger]

On the clutch issue, What would be shopping list to replace rear main seal, (I have clutch, pressure plate ect. ) on 86k100rt. Assuming all goes well.
Thanks
Brian

Diaphram spring
The clutch-basket NUT (one time use)
The shaft O ring (under the clutch basket nut and the stepped washer) - this is what is likely REALLY leaking - they all do eventually.