•  

    Welcome! You are currently logged out of the forum. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please LOG IN!

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the benefits of membership? If you click here, you have the opportunity to take us for a test ride at our expense. Enter the code 'FORUM25' in the activation code box to try the first year of the MOA on us!

     

clutch wear?

26667

the Wizard of Oz
My wife and I think we can take a two-up trip this summer. Probably only a couple thousand miles total.

When I bought my 2000 R1100RT several years ago w about 60K on the clock, we opened it all the way to the rear main and my indep' "guru" measured the width of the plate and said the clutch was worn about 1/2 way thru it's factory recommended life. Here we are about 27,000 miles later.

Would we be foolhardy to go ahead and assume that I could still have about 1/4 of the life expectancy? Say, another 20-30K?

Is the only way to tell, simply to open it up and measure? And at that point, why not go ahead and replace it? Since the amount of labor involved in getting at the clutch would just be duplicated fairly soon.


I don't notice any "issues" shifting. I'm not sure what I'd look for.

Thanx.
 
Slipping on hard acceleration will be your first warning.

To check easily
You can pull the starter and measure the plate thickness if you have a pair of calipers and a couple of thin feeler gauges.
Release the clutch, slip the feeler gauges on either side of the disc,engage the clutch and measure the inside distance.

It takes about an hour

New= 6.3mm Min = 4.8mm
 
If I read correctly there are about 87,000 miles on the bike and you will be taking a 2,000 mile two-up trip. I would not expect clutch problems unless you are a rider that slips the clutch a lot. I expect 125,000 to 150,000 or more on Oilhead clutches. That has been our experience at least on Voni's R1100RS (now at 378,000) and on my R1150R at 178,000 miles on the original factory installed clutch.
 
The clutch can be measured by removing the starter on the left hand side.

Take you look at this post http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?72263-Transmission-Input-Spline-Wear-Pattern&p=932078&viewfull=1#post932078 there are a couple of videos showing how to measure spline play by moving the clutch back and forth with the lever pulled in. You can also measure clutch disc wear at the edge of the disc. Play the videos to see the view you get into the bell housing once the starter is out of the way.

I think Paul, GSA and I were all typing at the same time so this response is a bit redundant. Sorry bout that! Maybe the vids will help though.
 
Thanx!!!

at my level of mechanical/technical competence, I welcome all the redundancy I can get of redundancy.:thumb
Thanx to all !!!
 
I'd pull the starter, check the thickness, check for freeplay in the spline and look for oil leaks. If everything looks good and all the normal service is done, go ride without any lingering doubts.
 
slip????

" ...unless you are a rider that slips the clutch a lot. "

Thanx, Paul and everyone who replied.

I'm a little embarrassed to admit, but I realize that I D really K what's meant by "slipping " the clutch. Is that what some might refer to as "Dragging" the clutch? In other words, letting it out gradually rather than making a quick pull and release? I try to do a quick pull and release (and pre-load the shifter), except from a standing start when I usually try to aim at what I'd call a smooth pull and release.
 
" ...unless you are a rider that slips the clutch a lot. "

Thanx, Paul and everyone who replied.

I'm a little embarrassed to admit, but I realize that I D really K what's meant by "slipping " the clutch. Is that what some might refer to as "Dragging" the clutch? In other words, letting it out gradually rather than making a quick pull and release? I try to do a quick pull and release (and pre-load the shifter), except from a standing start when I usually try to aim at what I'd call a smooth pull and release.

Many motor officers (police) do their very tight turns with nearly constant throttle, controlling their speed with more or less engagement of the clutch (allowing it to slip) and applying more or less rear brake. I'm sure Greenwald could describe this much better than I can.

Also, many adventure riders find themselves in places where due to rocks, incline, mud, or other terrain they are slipping the clutch to maintain control.

On the other hand most street riders just let out the clutch, shift as needed, and ride along. If this is your style then you should have no worries about a clutch at 87K miles unless you see symptoms.
 
Many motor officers (police) do their very tight turns with nearly constant throttle, controlling their speed with more or less engagement of the clutch (allowing it to slip) and applying more or less rear brake. I'm sure Greenwald could describe this much better than I can.

Also, many adventure riders find themselves in places where due to rocks, incline, mud, or other terrain they are slipping the clutch to maintain control.

On the other hand most street riders just let out the clutch, shift as needed, and ride along. If this is your style then you should have no worries about a clutch at 87K miles unless you see symptoms.
I just replaced my clutch at 41k but bought it at 34k first owner lived in Seattle hence many, many hills and stop lights.
 
style

yes, I imagine one's riding style and the terrain can make a huge difference. Who knows how the previous owner used/ abused it? But I'm gonna take comfort in Paul's assessment and believe I'v got one more season...time, obviously will tell. But since there are no apparant issues currently, I'm feeling more confident. And I can ask the guys at Cycle Werks to take a peek.

Thanx to all for the conversation and information!

ride safe
 
clutch need replacement?

If I read correctly there are about 87,000 miles on the bike and you will be taking a 2,000 mile two-up trip. I would not expect clutch problems unless you are a rider that slips the clutch a lot. I expect 125,000 to 150,000 or more on Oilhead clutches. That has been our experience at least on Voni's R1100RS (now at 378,000) and on my R1150R at 178,000 miles on the original factory installed clutch.

I have a 97 R1100RT with 98K miles. Can you help me diagnosis when the clutch is going? I read Paul's article a while back & think it's the clutch - When I try to accelerate in 5th (such as passing a car) then it will slip, rev up as if the clutch was pulled in. It has been doing that for about 30K miles, but I have just babied it when I need to accelerate quickly. Just returned from a 2K trip and it was markedly worse with an issue just going up a hill (bad sign I think). Does this sound like the clutch? Does this sound like a fix-it-now issue? I'm not mechanical at all & all work will be at the dealer (ouch!). How painful will this repair be?

thank you everyone for the replies!
Jane
 
Does this sound like the clutch? Does this sound like a fix-it-now issue?

1. Yes.
2. It was a "fix-it-now issue" 30k miles ago.
3. Best to call your dealer to find out how much. Or perhaps contact an independent repair shop who works on BMWs.
 
I have a 97 R1100RT with 98K miles. Can you help me diagnosis when the clutch is going? I read Paul's article a while back & think it's the clutch - When I try to accelerate in 5th (such as passing a car) then it will slip, rev up as if the clutch was pulled in. It has been doing that for about 30K miles, but I have just babied it when I need to accelerate quickly. Just returned from a 2K trip and it was markedly worse with an issue just going up a hill (bad sign I think). Does this sound like the clutch? Does this sound like a fix-it-now issue? I'm not mechanical at all & all work will be at the dealer (ouch!). How painful will this repair be?

thank you everyone for the replies!
Jane

That is a fix it now issue. Either the disk is worn thin, or the clutch has been lubricated with engine oil, or transmission oil; or there is no free play with the clutch cable. That is, the lever is holding the clutch partly disengaged all the time.

So, first make sure the lever moves a little bit with almost no effort. Then face the fact the transmission needs to be removed to correct the problem. A worn clutch would be simple. It may be that an engine or tranny seal needs to be replaced too.

Pull the starter and look in and see of you can detect signs of oil. And you can measure the clutch too.
 
Back
Top