R1200RT 2008 Clutch Hand Lever Adjustment Modifications/Options
Guessing this question has been asked and answered before ? input or links appreciated. While I have a 2008 R1200RT I imagine that this post applies to many BMW bikes. My goal is to get the hand clutch lever closer to the grip so that it engages closer to the grip (where hand control is greatest for me) and so the lever is easier reach ? due to my small hands and weak grip. I have a 3 adjustment lever with the #1 position being closest and on this setting the farthest part of the lever (out near the ball on end of lever) is 2.9 inches from the grip ? and the clutch engages at 1.5 inches from the grip ? which means that I can move my lever maximum of 1.4 inches closer to the grip ? my goal is to get it 1? closer to the grip ? and with adjustments available on OEM lever I have room to spare should by clutch engagement window change for some reason. I am looking at modifying the OEM lever system AND other options as you may suggest. I am not overly confident in ANY of my suggested changes ? which is why I am asking for input/feedback.
Proposed OEM Lever Modifications: There seem to be four main areas/ways that I can modify my OEM lever setup. Please refer to attached pictures and the schematic at ASCycles.com to gain added understanding of this proposed modification. If you don?t like clicking on links then you can search on google for images, R1200RT ?Clutch Control Assembly?.
http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated...=Single parts, clutch fitting&bindCat=32_0929
http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated...dName=Clutch control assembly&bindCat=32_0814
1. Turn Grub Screw Counter Clockwise ? The grubscrew has locktite on it so plan to heat it a bit and unscrew it 0.1 inches to move lever in about 0.5 inches (my calculation). This looks easy to do but I am very unsure of what is going on with this grubscrew so have some concerns. It looks like item 12 is a sealing grommet through which the grubscrew passes ? but not sure about that. I have concerns that changing geometry of push pin may cause fluid to leak or otherwise adversely impact geometry at the end of the grubscrew push point. I have never disassembled the clutch master cylinder and am not planning on doing so on this modification ? maybe someone who has rebuild this cylinder can describe what is going on and how shortening grubscrew 0.1 inches may impact the hydraulic cylinder operation. The mod will make the lever a bit floppy since the there are no springs to take up the slack ? so plan on building up the lever with a bit of epoxy to remove slack so that it keeps the lever snug (even though the travel to snugness has no resistance). I think that moving the screw 0.1 inches should leave enough of the threads engaged ? but not sure how much further this could be turned counter clockwise beyond 0.1 inches.
2. Grind down impact end of Grub Screw ? Grinding the end of the grub screw to remove 0.1 inches accomplishes the same as above. An option if unscrewing the grub screw 0.1 inches is not enough. Not sure ?how short? the grub screw can be reduced ? depends on some geometry issues ? not sure if I understand what they are. Same questions as Item 1.
3. Grind Lever Contact Point ? The lever contact point is 0.36 inches thick. This could be ground down 0.1 inches ? which translates into getting the lever closer to the handle bar by 0.3 inches (my calculation). I think 0.1 inches is all I would grind off ? not sure about grinding any more off. I may need to build up the part (with epoxy) of the lever where the 2 small screws (you can?t see these on the diagram but they exist, are very small, and keep lever snug so there is no lever slack) if any slack develops.
4. Grind Adjustment Cog - The adjustment cog is 0.3 inches thick. Taking off 0.1 inch (maximum I am comfortable with) gets the lever closer to the bar by 0.3 inches (my calculation).
Summary: Doing items 1, 3, and 4 above would get me to my goal? But what is the downside? Has someone done the above (or any of them)? Is there some aftermarket lever that you know would achieve my goal? Thanks for any input you may wish to provide. I have some concerns with doing the above ? which is why I am asking. The screwdriver in photos point to 3 places where I would be grinding (see 2, 3, 4 above) or screwing (see 1 above) - with one photo showing the adjusting cog being held in my hand where I would be grinding (see 4 above).
Guessing this question has been asked and answered before ? input or links appreciated. While I have a 2008 R1200RT I imagine that this post applies to many BMW bikes. My goal is to get the hand clutch lever closer to the grip so that it engages closer to the grip (where hand control is greatest for me) and so the lever is easier reach ? due to my small hands and weak grip. I have a 3 adjustment lever with the #1 position being closest and on this setting the farthest part of the lever (out near the ball on end of lever) is 2.9 inches from the grip ? and the clutch engages at 1.5 inches from the grip ? which means that I can move my lever maximum of 1.4 inches closer to the grip ? my goal is to get it 1? closer to the grip ? and with adjustments available on OEM lever I have room to spare should by clutch engagement window change for some reason. I am looking at modifying the OEM lever system AND other options as you may suggest. I am not overly confident in ANY of my suggested changes ? which is why I am asking for input/feedback.
Proposed OEM Lever Modifications: There seem to be four main areas/ways that I can modify my OEM lever setup. Please refer to attached pictures and the schematic at ASCycles.com to gain added understanding of this proposed modification. If you don?t like clicking on links then you can search on google for images, R1200RT ?Clutch Control Assembly?.
http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated...=Single parts, clutch fitting&bindCat=32_0929
http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated...dName=Clutch control assembly&bindCat=32_0814
1. Turn Grub Screw Counter Clockwise ? The grubscrew has locktite on it so plan to heat it a bit and unscrew it 0.1 inches to move lever in about 0.5 inches (my calculation). This looks easy to do but I am very unsure of what is going on with this grubscrew so have some concerns. It looks like item 12 is a sealing grommet through which the grubscrew passes ? but not sure about that. I have concerns that changing geometry of push pin may cause fluid to leak or otherwise adversely impact geometry at the end of the grubscrew push point. I have never disassembled the clutch master cylinder and am not planning on doing so on this modification ? maybe someone who has rebuild this cylinder can describe what is going on and how shortening grubscrew 0.1 inches may impact the hydraulic cylinder operation. The mod will make the lever a bit floppy since the there are no springs to take up the slack ? so plan on building up the lever with a bit of epoxy to remove slack so that it keeps the lever snug (even though the travel to snugness has no resistance). I think that moving the screw 0.1 inches should leave enough of the threads engaged ? but not sure how much further this could be turned counter clockwise beyond 0.1 inches.
2. Grind down impact end of Grub Screw ? Grinding the end of the grub screw to remove 0.1 inches accomplishes the same as above. An option if unscrewing the grub screw 0.1 inches is not enough. Not sure ?how short? the grub screw can be reduced ? depends on some geometry issues ? not sure if I understand what they are. Same questions as Item 1.
3. Grind Lever Contact Point ? The lever contact point is 0.36 inches thick. This could be ground down 0.1 inches ? which translates into getting the lever closer to the handle bar by 0.3 inches (my calculation). I think 0.1 inches is all I would grind off ? not sure about grinding any more off. I may need to build up the part (with epoxy) of the lever where the 2 small screws (you can?t see these on the diagram but they exist, are very small, and keep lever snug so there is no lever slack) if any slack develops.
4. Grind Adjustment Cog - The adjustment cog is 0.3 inches thick. Taking off 0.1 inch (maximum I am comfortable with) gets the lever closer to the bar by 0.3 inches (my calculation).
Summary: Doing items 1, 3, and 4 above would get me to my goal? But what is the downside? Has someone done the above (or any of them)? Is there some aftermarket lever that you know would achieve my goal? Thanks for any input you may wish to provide. I have some concerns with doing the above ? which is why I am asking. The screwdriver in photos point to 3 places where I would be grinding (see 2, 3, 4 above) or screwing (see 1 above) - with one photo showing the adjusting cog being held in my hand where I would be grinding (see 4 above).
