camhead oem top box fix

[brownie0486]

Recently my brother came out from Co. to enjoy my 16RS and do 2 days of riding with me on my 11RT. We use cardo comms and he mentioned twice that my top box was shaking more than he thought it should on anything but smooth surfaces.

At a stop, I checked the top box fitting, seemed tight front to back [ trying to jiggle it manually ]. Yesterday after I'd done a morning ride, I wanted to explore this further [ bugging me it was noticed like it was ].

What I discovered is, front back, solid as before but I could lift the left side up about 1/4", doing so from the right side of the box, tight. Took the top box off and could see the left tab with rubber insert that fits into the plate seemed a little thinner than the right side. Hmm, what do I have to take up that slack.

5/16" wide x 3/8" thick door insulation roll. Cut two pieces the width of the locking tabs, applied alcohol to the box tabs, applied to both locking tabs. Slid the top box into position, locked it down and low and behold, NO lateral play as before of the top box. The insulation gives the tabs a little cushioning and can be replaced should the foam compress so far as to cause the top box to do the same thing.

I'm not very good at solving things like this, but the door jam insulation in that size seems like it will work a charm and can be replaced nearly anywhere I may find I need to redo the tabs.

 

[chrisinsc]

Recently my brother came out from Co. to enjoy my 16RS and do 2 days of riding with me on my 11RT. We use cardo comms and he mentioned twice that my top box was shaking more than he thought it should on anything but smooth surfaces.

At a stop, I checked the top box fitting, seemed tight front to back [ trying to jiggle it manually ]. Yesterday after I'd done a morning ride, I wanted to explore this further [ bugging me it was noticed like it was ].

What I discovered is, front back, solid as before but I could lift the left side up about 1/4", doing so from the right side of the box, tight. Took the top box off and could see the left tab with rubber insert that fits into the plate seemed a little thinner than the right side. Hmm, what do I have to take up that slack.

5/16" wide x 3/8" thick door insulation roll. Cut two pieces the width of the locking tabs, applied alcohol to the box tabs, applied to both locking tabs. Slid the top box into position, locked it down and low and behold, NO lateral play as before of the top box. The insulation gives the tabs a little cushioning and can be replaced should the foam compress so far as to cause the top box to do the same thing.

I'm not very good at solving things like this, but the door jam insulation in that size seems like it will work a charm and can be replaced nearly anywhere I may find I need to redo the tabs.

Top box mounting system on my 97 f650 felt loose so I run it with two cedar shingle shims held with gorilla tape. One under each edge. The Givi box on my R1100RT felt loose so I put strips of neoprene weather strip underneath it and it’s fine too. I am going to check the box on the 2008 12rt and will report back. Fabrication, especially reversible or hidden fabrication is your right as the owner of a motorcycle. Embrace it!

 

[brownie0486]

Top box mounting system on my 97 f650 felt loose so I run it with two cedar shingle shims held with gorilla tape. One under each edge. The Givi box on my R1100RT felt loose so I put strips of neoprene weather strip underneath it and it’s fine too. I am going to check the box on the 2008 12rt and will report back. Fabrication, especially reversible or hidden fabrication is your right as the owner of a motorcycle. Embrace it!

I was pretty happy with the "fix" on the top box, we'll see how long that door weather stripping lasts. For now, the top box isn't going to be shaking, rattling or rolling much, if at all.

 

[chrisinsc]

I was pretty happy with the "fix" on the top box, we'll see how long that door weather stripping lasts. For now, the top box isn't going to be shaking, rattling or rolling much, if at all.

Just for full transparency the weatherstripping I used eventually got beaten down into a state of marginal usefulness on the 1100RT. Thin indoor/outdoor carpet or a hunk of rubber doormat might last longer.

On the 08 1200RT there is a fair amount of up and down when pulling it up and down. I would say 50% of the play is connection to the rear deck and 50% is the deck itself flexing. Looks like the deck could be beefed up with some fabrication on the deck on both edges. I will have someone ride behind me this weekend on the freeway and watch it.

 

[brownie0486]

Just for full transparency the weatherstripping I used eventually got beaten down into a state of marginal usefulness on the 1100RT. Thin indoor/outdoor carpet or a hunk of rubber doormat might last longer.

On the 08 1200RT there is a fair amount of up and down when pulling it up and down. I would say 50% of the play is connection to the rear deck and 50% is the deck itself flexing. Looks like the deck could be beefed up with some fabrication on the deck on both edges. I will have someone ride behind me this weekend on the freeway and watch it.

If the weather stripping gets beat down as I suspect it will, replacement is 4-5 minutes max. We'll see how long it lasts the first time before it gets crushed to uselessness.