battery ground

[rowens816]

I did a feeble search, but I could not find anything specific to this question:

Is there a better place for a case grond connection for the battery rather than the single bolt at the speedometer drive?

For my '78 R100RS, apparently years of wear has nearly destroyed the threads at the speedo mount. It remains enough to keep the speedo drive intact. but there is not enough bite to tighten the negative battery cable.

I have attached the ground cable to the backbone of the frame, but I am sure that a engine case connection would be more recommended.

Can anyone suggest a better place?

Ron

 

[20774]

Usually people find one of the transmission bolts that's near the original speedo bolt. But any good frame mount is fine also.

 

[doktortim]

Yes, BTDT. Run batt - to coil mount on frame, then another from there to rear tranny mount bolt. Will need a longer bolt and spacer for that. Also, add the aux ground to the charging system linking the stator housing, diode board, front case and crank case. Your original speedo bolt can then be installed finger tight with blue locktite.

Your starter, relays, lights, ignition system, charging system and all terminals will last much longer if provided with enhanced resistance free grounding. Low resistance = less heat stresses all around.

 

[krpntr]

less resistance

My ground points remain the same, but a larger wire scavenged from a"Monster" speaker cable seems to have made somewhat of a difference in starting. The starter spins over faster and starts in one or two cranks of the engine, ie: r-r-vroom. Before, it sounded like r-r-r-r-r--r-r-r--r-r-rvroom.

 

[lmo1131]

r-r-r-r-r -- r-r-r -- r-r-rvroom

Is the -- a click-click? Mine is ... or was, until I did the cricket mod.

 

[krpntr]

no just a slight pause. The click click was another experience altogether. That is when I learned about the diode board grounding points. The powder coating under the terminal ends at the timing case cover needs to be scraped off.