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Battery Charger

Paul,
So you put it through 1 deep cycle. Big deal. Should be good for 300 or so (from new). Might have knocked a month off the overall life???
High charge current shouldn't hurt an AGM, as I've seen mfgrs. state (or list) charging currents of .3 to 1.0 (and higher) x C. The AGMs have lower internal resistance so they naturally take a higher charge current w/o heating. The .1C max (10% AH rating) came from the last century when chargers didn't have voltage regulation. As the charge (s.g.) went up, so did the internal resistance, so the little trickle charger kept pushing current, and the voltage could go up trying to flow that current (not a smart charger). That size ratio could disipate the heat @ .1C w/o overheating the FLA batts. internals and warping the plates when someone connected the charger and walked away. When you jump started your bike, that charge was voltage regulated, and so was the subsequent 100 mi ride. So riding for 2 hrs was enough to bring the charge up enough to restart the bike, then another 3-4 hrs riding probably topped it off. It would be interesting to see the batts. resting voltage now after you "exercized" it.
Mike,
People get wound up or concerned when they get only a couple yrs. from their factory batts., then spend $80-$150 to replace it (I know, not a big deal relative to the cost of rubber, gas, etc.), and wonder if the replacement batt. and charger they selected will give them reasonable life and reliability. Since we can't bump start these efi space shuttles, batt. life (and jumper cables) becomes more important. My take (living in the cold NE): if I got only 2 yrs, I'd be pissed & change the type and/or mfgr; 4 yrs, well, OK; 6 yrs, I'm real happy; over that is icing on the cake and good for bragging rites. I realize folks in hotter climates will generally get a lower life, but @ 2 yrs., I'd still be pissed.
 
Battery care here, does not even closely match battery care when I lived in NY.

A factory battery uncharged, is dead in a year or less. Most cars have a new battery in at 11 months, but that 2nd battery lives 13 months, so they now have to pay $20 (a small pro-rating). If they want to keep that car, the third battery is then time for an Odyssey, it'll last 3 or more years, then take a charge or be replaced free.

After 3 years, they pro-rate an Odyssey. I have had a 5 year one replaced during a 6 year warranty.
 
Jordan,
Wow. One year life from a battery??? I'd be super pissed. Reading Consumer Reports for car batteries, the normal free replacement term is 3 yrs, and pro rating goes over 8 yrs (Check the Everstart from WalMart). There's also a different battery design sold for northern (more lead plates and higher CCA) and southern (thicker/fewer lead plates and lower CCA) climates.
What do you guys do for battery care there in those high temps (that's different from NY)? Did you get an Oddysey to go 5 yrs. in your bike, where others would only last 1 yr? If so, the Odd. sounds like the one for hot climates.

Vern
 
One year is for OEM car batteries. Maintenance Free batteries here are the worst. They dry out too fast.

Gel batteries last better, but every time I get off in the garage, I hook up to the Battery Tender Plus I got when I first got a gel battery in my bike.

A BT from Deltran can $29.995 to $39.95 trade up, so my 10-year old was traded up in 2007.

My car just got a new battery from Sears where now-gone brother-in-law obtained the last one. It was 2.5 years old, I paid $69.95 for a $129.95 battery.
 
my experience with Odyssey batts is that they really like a battery tender to keep it up to snuff in cold weather. if i do not ride the bike for several weeks without tender on it, it will crank over & start, but will produce an ABS flash/fault. with tender i get no ABS flashing, and bike cranks over more readily.

I installed a new Odyssey PC680 battery last year on my 2004 1150RT but am not impressed with this battery. The problem is, if I don't ride the bike for 3 days, it won't get enough cranking power to start the engine; if the engine stalls right after start up, it won't get enough cranking power to re-start the engine. This problem seems more evident during the winter months (maybe because the bike gets to sit in the garage for a couple of days from time to time), even though the winters in Georgia aren't as harsh as in other regions. The only parasitic draw that I am aware of is the clock; but I could be wrong, this being my first BMW motorcycle. Has anyone experienced a similar problem? I'd appreciate any pointers.

Note: 1) I am currently using the BMW charger to maintain the battery through the accessory charger

2) I have an analog volt meter hooked up to the bike and it shows ~13.8V while riding, ~14V while the battery is plugged to the tender, and ~12V at rest.
 
I installed a new Odyssey PC680 battery last year on my 2004 1150RT but am not impressed with this battery. The problem is, if I don't ride the bike for 3 days, it won't get enough cranking power to start the engine; if the engine stalls right after start up, it won't get enough cranking power to re-start the engine. This problem seems more evident during the winter months (maybe because the bike gets to sit in the garage for a couple of days from time to time), even though the winters in Georgia aren't as harsh as in other regions. The only parasitic draw that I am aware of is the clock; but I could be wrong, this being my first BMW motorcycle. Has anyone experienced a similar problem? I'd appreciate any pointers.

Note: 1) I am currently using the BMW charger to maintain the battery through the accessory charger

2) I have an analog volt meter hooked up to the bike and it shows ~13.8V while riding, ~14V while the battery is plugged to the tender, and ~12V at rest.

At ~12V your battery is not fully charged (see below). I don't think your BMW charger is going to get it back up to full charge. Try charging it via an appropriate charger to getting it back up to at least 12.65V and see if the problem goes away. That's where I'd start.
I'm no expert on batteries, but I bought an Odyssey PC925L for my K75 recently and spent many hours researching/reading up on batteries before buying and I'm learning. I bought an Odyssey charger to go along with mine. Time will tell how it holds up.

From the Odyssey Battery owner's manual:
"ODYSSEY batteries are shipped fully charged. If the ODYSSEY battery's voltage is 12.65V or greater, simply install the battery in your vehicle and you are ready to go! If below 12.65V, boost charge following the instructions in the ODYSSEY battery OwnerÔÇÖs Manual and/or Technical Manual. Putting a boost on the battery will not damage it, even if its voltage reads higher than 12.65V."
 
2) I have an analog volt meter hooked up to the bike and it shows ~13.8V while riding, ~14V while the battery is plugged to the tender, and ~12V at rest.

Your Oddyssey is at about 35% (12 V resting) and a little smart charger won't recharge it. Get a 6 A (min.) Optimizer (I know, more expense, stuff, etc. but cheaper than replacing the PC680). Or, if you have a car charger around, use it but monitor the voltage closely. You want it up to 12.65 V (resting) before using a maintenance charger. BTW, if you have can-bus, you cannot charge thru the factory accessory socket. Go to West Coast Batteries website for the links to Oddyssey battery & charger maunals/guides.
 
At ~12V your battery is not fully charged (see below). I don't think your BMW charger is going to get it back up to full charge. Try charging it via an appropriate charger to getting it back up to at least 12.65V and see if the problem goes away. That's where I'd start.
I'm no expert on batteries, but I bought an Odyssey PC925L for my K75 recently and spent many hours researching/reading up on batteries before buying and I'm learning. I bought an Odyssey charger to go along with mine. Time will tell how it holds up.

From the Odyssey Battery owner's manual:
"ODYSSEY batteries are shipped fully charged. If the ODYSSEY battery's voltage is 12.65V or greater, simply install the battery in your vehicle and you are ready to go! If below 12.65V, boost charge following the instructions in the ODYSSEY battery OwnerÔÇÖs Manual and/or Technical Manual. Putting a boost on the battery will not damage it, even if its voltage reads higher than 12.65V."

Thank you for your reply, Dean.

After reading some of the comments on this thread, 12V at rest (room temperature) doesn't seem high enough for an AGM battery. While my BMW charger is capable of maintaining a float charge level in the acceptable range (13,5V to 13,7V), the bulk phase doesn't seem to deliver the recommended minimum voltage. I am going to look for a more suitable charger that will hopefully bring my Odyssey up to the recommended voltage. I was under the impression that the bike's charging system alone would be sufficient to keep the battery up to snuff considering that the bike is used for commuting to work at least 3 days of the week.

On the same topic, I wonder if it is normal for a 1150RT to show ~13.5V while underway (no extra accessories on)? Others seem to report higher voltages while underway.
 
Your Oddyssey is at about 35% (12 V resting) and a little smart charger won't recharge it. Get a 6 A (min.) Optimizer (I know, more expense, stuff, etc. but cheaper than replacing the PC680). Or, if you have a car charger around, use it but monitor the voltage closely. You want it up to 12.65 V (resting) before using a maintenance charger. BTW, if you have can-bus, you cannot charge thru the factory accessory socket. Go to West Coast Batteries website for the links to Oddyssey battery & charger maunals/guides.

Thank you for the recommendation and advice, Vern.
 
I really don't understand why people get so wound up about battery life.

Yet isn't funny how car and motorcycle owners get so wound up about "what oil" to use when I can't even remember ever hearing about an oil related engine failure.

Worse yet are those buying the so called best oil (aka expensive), and then they brag about the cheap oil filters they buy. Duhhh...still scratching my head on that one.

More of us get stranded due to a battery/charging system problem than an engine oil problem, and we worry and discuss the latter? :dunno
 
I have an analog volt meter hooked up to the bike and it shows ~13.8V while riding, ~14V while the battery is plugged to the tender, and ~12V at rest.

So did I in my old R65.

Unfortunately, where it is hooked up makes a difference in many cases.

Check to see if your on-board voltmeter actually reads what your battery voltage is. You'll need a DMM for that.
 
Yet isn't funny how car and motorcycle owners get so wound up about "what oil" to use when I can't even remember ever hearing about an oil related engine failure.

Worse yet are those buying the so called best oil (aka expensive), and then they brag about the cheap oil filters they buy. Duhhh...still scratching my head on that one.

More of us get stranded due to a battery/charging system problem than an engine oil problem, and we worry and discuss the latter? :dunno

:beer
 
Wow. One year life from a battery??? I'd be super pissed.

So would I. In fact, I would be if I got less than 10 years out of a battery up here.

I just got back from leaving my car at the airport for just over seven days. The battery is in its 12th year and at the sub-zero temperatures (aka high starter current draw), it cranked over and started in a second or two.

The one thing owners should invest in is a voltmeter that tells them what their battery voltage is at all times. Then they can determine what their on-vehicle and off-vehicle (battery charger/maintainer) charging system is doing. Its nice knowing you can depend on something not to cause you grief.
 
So did I in my old R65.

Unfortunately, where it is hooked up makes a difference in many cases.

Check to see if your on-board voltmeter actually reads what your battery voltage is. You'll need a DMM for that.

It's hooked up to the battery. Now am trying to decide between the CTEK 3300 and the Optimate 4. I need a charger that will bring the voltage back to the 12.8V (or higher) at rest. Any recommendations? Is a 6 amp charger really necessary to bring a weak battery up to snuff? If yes, I my guess is neither of the chargers I mentioned will do the trick.

Thanks in advance ...
 
Bohan,
Here's the list from Oddyssey: http://www.odysseyfactory.com/documents/ODYSSEYApproved12VChargers_000.pdf
There's nothing recommended under 6 amps for charging your 680. The lighter ones listed are for maintaining only. The 6 amp " Ultimizer" Oddyssey charger is around $60, which is the lowest cost charger/maintainer made specificaly for your batt.
I don't know the reason why, but w/ Oddyssey batts, they need at least 6 amps of charging current (the larger 925s need more) when they hit a certain level of discharge (and @ 12.0V, it seems you're under that level). On other m/c forums where there's lots of Odd. batt. use, folks have very bad luck trying to charge a low Odd. w/ a B Tender or other maintainer. It could be that the smart charger shuts itself down when it seems it's not doing anything (thinks it's a bad batt.?), or it could be that the batt. itself requires higher current levels to accept a charge. I don't own an Odd. because of cost (but I see the attraction to use them in the small space for a big engine bike w/ lots of electronics like yours), but if I did, and the pile of chargers that I have didn't bring it up to 12.9V (resting), I'd go get something else (to add to the pile) that was factory recommended.
 
. . . Is a 6 amp charger really necessary to bring a weak battery up to snuff? . . .
According to the manufacturer of your battery, it is necessary for your PC680.

. . . I need a charger that will bring the voltage back to the 12.8V (or higher) at rest. Any recommendations?
An awful lot of folks have really good things to say about the PC680. Why not just get the charger that's made for it?
 
I need a charger that will bring the voltage back to the 12.8V (or higher) at rest. Any recommendations?

Thats a function of a battery's state of health and its ability to accept a full charge.

I have a few Optimate IIIs and a couple CTEK 3300; I prefer the CTEK.
 
There's nothing recommended under 6 amps for charging your 680.

Then why are some of us using that battery in our BMWs?

Do you think the minimum charge rate is 6A for our charging systems?

I never did get a good explanation of their "minimum charge rate" from Odyssey.
 
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