Alternator upgrade Motorrad vs EuroMoto

[TELLURIDER]

I am looking into upgrading my 82 R100RS charging system and would like your opinion on these two options. I am leaning toward the EuroMoto Electric EnDuraLast which is a permanent magnet type. Besides being $100 cheaper I like the fact that it eliminates the diod board and it's brushless. Seems like it might be more reliable. http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/EDLBMW.html The price listed is $489 but when you go to check out it's $469 with free shipping plus they are located in Colorado (same as me).

I think the Motorrad Elektrik Omega has been around longer and may have more of a track record but it is $575. It is also more like the original alternator with brushes, and electric magnet rotor, and diod board. http://www.motoelekt.com/charging.htm

I just rode from Louisville KY to southwest Colorado durring record low temperatures and was lucky enough to borrow a Gerbing's jacket. I live at almost 9000 ft and have a 40 mile comute. It can be very cold here even in the summer and I would like to get heated clothing for myself and my wife. Probably just jackets and gloves to start.

I would apreciate any input I can get. Especially from anyone with experiance with either choice or let me know if there are other options as well.

I'm planning on doing the install myself so if you have any pointers or things to watch out for I would also apreciate it.

I'm new to the forum/club? so im not sure if the links will work if not maybe someone can help me out there.

Thanks

 

[bigrider]

I've had the Euromoto on my 84 RS for over a year without a glitch. Installed it myself. The current instructions are better than the one I used. I'd recommend teh Euromoto.

Dave H
San Antonio, TX

 

[bob_m]

Motoradd Elektrik

On my 82 RS I have the Omega system by Motoradd Elektrik. That 400W system has no trouble running my vest (45W) my running lights (2-35W = 70W) and my gerbing gloves (22W). I factor 100W to operate the motorcycle and 55W to run the OEM headlight. That puts me in right around 300W load on the charging system. When I first got my driving lights they came stock with a pair of 85W bulbs. Running those at high speed on a hot day, I melted the diode boardÔÇÖs solder connections. Rick at Motoradd Elektrik gave me a new board and explained that he had gotten a batch of bad ones from his supplier, but regardless, I will not have less than the 100W safety margin.

Once bitten, twice shy.

 

[rkildu]

I have a Motorad Elektrik Omega system on my 82 R100. I am very satisfied with it. Rick is great providing support and answering my dumb questions. I installed it myself with no problems. Past experience with the vendor has been great.

I run heated grips (aftermarket, snowmobile), extra tail/stops lights, Motolights and running lights on the front and two accessary plugs. Last weekend I took it to Sturges, MS, to the Veterans Rally. It got really cold, low overnight in the twenties I heard. It fired right up in the morning. Riding home I had everything on! All lights, heated vest, hot grips on and power for my GPS, in other words a full load.

Rod

 

[radar41]

Enduralast System

I too have had the Endurlast system on my 84 RS for over a year. I'm running 2 ea. 55 Watt PIAA's as running lights with the headlight off. At night with all lights on including highbeam voltage holds about 13.0V.

Hope this helps

Radar

 

[TELLURIDER]

Thanks for the help.

It seems like the Endurolast might be lower maintenance and more reliable in the long run and I like the price better.

I like the fact that the Omega reaches full output 400W at 4000 rpm where theEndurolast isn't 400W until 5000 rpm. And is 350W at 3000rpm. so at 4000 it would only be putting out 375W. I am usualy running around 4000rpm except when getting going or passing.

It sounds like from what Bob_M is saying, you don't want to or can't use the full output of the Omega anyway. I wonder if it would be ok to run loads closer to the Full output on the Endurolast since it doesn't have a diode board. On the Omega it says if you are running a lot of accessories you should replace your front cover with one of the earlier vented ones. I wonder if this is also nessasary with the Endurolast.

Do any of you know what the typical stock bike electrical load is without any accessories?

I think I will give them both a call to get more details.

Thanks again

 

[Rod Sheridan]

The Euromoto, being a permanent magnet alternator, has an un-controlled output.
As shaft speed rises, so does output.

The rectifier/regulator replace both the diode board and the voltage regulator, however you still have a "diode Board" and a regulator, they're simply now in one package.

On a permanent magnet alternator, the only way to regulate the output voltage, is to load it enough that the voltage stays at the required value. The voltage regulator does this by short circuiting the alternator output with SCR's (Silicon Controlled Rectifiers). Thus, a permanent magnet alternator is always at maximum load, if the bikes DC system needs more power, less is shunted through the SCR's, if less power is required for the bike, more is shunted through the SCR's.



On a wound rotor alternator, brushes carry DC current to the rotating field winding, the voltage regulator adjusts the field current to adjust the alternator output. The alternator and diode board (rectifier) only carry as much current as is required to run the bike.

This is the system used in the Bosch alternator, or in your car alternator.

Regards, Rod.

 

[35303]

I have had the Endurolast charger for a year with no trouble. Its output is about 100 watts more at about 1000 rpm less than the 280 watt stock system. Its output is slight at idle but picks up quickly over 1500 rpm and it keeps a full charge on the battery in city riding with extra running lights.
It maintains a proper 14+ charging voltage rather than the 13 + volts of the stock system. I recommend keeping the fused wire from the rectifier to the battery short and using 2 ground leads if not frame mounted.

This review at this link gives good installation info for the Omega:
http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/r100gs/alternator/index.html
But this quote:
"With the engine running, alternator light will glow at RPMs below about 1800, which Rick sez is normal."
had me question its output for slow riding.

 

[Polarbear]

Me too, /7 Omega

Just two weeks ago and I did not even know about the other company. My Omega went in without a hitch and seems extremely well made, vs the old unit. I think I spent about 3 hours doing the job, as a first time doing this job. It is simple and if I ever had to help another do one, the process would get quicker for sure. I suspect this alternator is a one time purchase in the life of the bike, with occasional brush replacements every few years. Maybe a rotor every ten years or so! Its built to last. My original made 300000 miles and this new one by Omega is better yet! Happy Trails, Randy13233

 

[SWDESERTGUY]

Very interested in Alternator/Battery Upgrade: 83 G/SPD

Has anyone upgraded a G/S with the Omega or other Alternator kit? I'd like to be able to run all my accessories without worry of watching the voltmeter. Also, how can I determine the capacity of the venting that is required of my engine front cover? It has small vents at the bottom, is this what is needed? Wouldn't vents allow intrusion of foreign debris (dirt and such, not: speaking another language).

I like the idea of the demand based alternator ala Omega, but since I need to replace my battery I figured I get everything in one swoop. I've seen the Panasonic batteries direct from the manufacturer and catalog houses listed as the same as the WestCo just without the re-badging. Is this true? I've had the previous WestCo for 6 years and before that the other for 6 too. Is it recommended to install an oscillator/desulfator as I do on my trucks that have Optima AGM batteries?

Thanks for the help!

Joel
83 R80 G/S PD