sundance71
New member
Hi Folks.
I just purchased an 04 R1150RT a couple of months ago and I have been going through it changing out the things that need to be changed on a 17 year old bike. One of these was the alternator belt. I have the clutch pulley and stretch belt setup that they started using on the 04s. I had read a number of posts about getting the new belt on by loosening the three bolts, putting the belt on and then prying up on the alternator to get the 116mm clearance between the pulleys. I tried something a little different tonight and it seemed to work pretty well. This is not intended to poo-poo anyone else's method but I just thought I'd say hello and share the way that I ended up doing it.
The distance had already been set to 116mm at the factory and I didn't loosen any mount bolts.
I bought one of the $9 plastic belt install tools on amazon because I figured I would be less likely to mess up the pulley than with one of the metal ones.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FIJZP70/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had to widen the slot on it with the dremel to get it to fit on the RTs crank pulley. The problem with the tool as demonstrated in the videos is that there isn't enough friction to keep it from sliding around the pulley when you are turning the engine. What I ended up doing was putting a strip of duct tape around the pulley to protect the surface and securing the tool to the pulley with a 4" hose clamp. Put the hose clamp screw adjuster maybe an inch or so after the tool in the clockwise direction. The clamp provides enough friction for the tool to work. When the screw mechanism on the hose clamp reaches the 12 o'clock position, loosen it enough to remove the tool. Once the tool is out of the way, completely undo the hose clamp and pull it out by the screw mechanism as you continue to turn the engine. Once the clamp is out, keep turning until the seam on the duct tape is at 12'oclock and unwind it from the pulley the same way that you did for the hose clamp.
There was no damage to the belt or pulley and this is how I will do it in the future. I didn't heat the belt (PN 12 31 7 681 841) or anything and the 3/8" ratchet on the crank was more than adequate to stretch it over the pulley.
Anyway, good to meet everyone and thanks for all of the great info about the oilheads.
Chris
I just purchased an 04 R1150RT a couple of months ago and I have been going through it changing out the things that need to be changed on a 17 year old bike. One of these was the alternator belt. I have the clutch pulley and stretch belt setup that they started using on the 04s. I had read a number of posts about getting the new belt on by loosening the three bolts, putting the belt on and then prying up on the alternator to get the 116mm clearance between the pulleys. I tried something a little different tonight and it seemed to work pretty well. This is not intended to poo-poo anyone else's method but I just thought I'd say hello and share the way that I ended up doing it.
The distance had already been set to 116mm at the factory and I didn't loosen any mount bolts.
I bought one of the $9 plastic belt install tools on amazon because I figured I would be less likely to mess up the pulley than with one of the metal ones.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FIJZP70/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had to widen the slot on it with the dremel to get it to fit on the RTs crank pulley. The problem with the tool as demonstrated in the videos is that there isn't enough friction to keep it from sliding around the pulley when you are turning the engine. What I ended up doing was putting a strip of duct tape around the pulley to protect the surface and securing the tool to the pulley with a 4" hose clamp. Put the hose clamp screw adjuster maybe an inch or so after the tool in the clockwise direction. The clamp provides enough friction for the tool to work. When the screw mechanism on the hose clamp reaches the 12 o'clock position, loosen it enough to remove the tool. Once the tool is out of the way, completely undo the hose clamp and pull it out by the screw mechanism as you continue to turn the engine. Once the clamp is out, keep turning until the seam on the duct tape is at 12'oclock and unwind it from the pulley the same way that you did for the hose clamp.
There was no damage to the belt or pulley and this is how I will do it in the future. I didn't heat the belt (PN 12 31 7 681 841) or anything and the 3/8" ratchet on the crank was more than adequate to stretch it over the pulley.
Anyway, good to meet everyone and thanks for all of the great info about the oilheads.
Chris
