93 k75s - speed bleeder question

[ghyber]

I want to order some speed bleeders for my K75S from Speedbleeders dot com. I was going to order five bleeders (two up front, one for the rear and two for each ABS unit).

However, I was told that some owners don't bleed the ABS units. Is there a problem with bleeding the ABS units? Is there a different procedure for getting the old oil out of the units other than opening the valve and squeezing the appropriate handle or pedal? I don't see the point why one would bleed only part of the hydraulic system oil?

Also, any recommendations on the stainless steel version versus the OEM steel versions?

http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/


Ghyslain

 

[deilenberger]

I always flushed (not "bleed" - bleed is when you have air in the system) the ABS units as part of the annual fluid flush. Dunno why you wouldn't.

 

[Zagando]

Confused and curious

And I always thought flushing and bleeding were really one and the same...

I'm confused by your answer, Don---also, should the OP use three or five speed bleeders (I figure 3 is the correct answer but I'm curious to be completely sure)?

 

[98lee]

And I always thought flushing and bleeding were really one and the same...

Nope.

Flushing is completely flushing out the old fluid with new fluid. Basically to replace the old fluid that has been degraded by moisture.

Bleeding is to remove air in the system (to cure a spongy pedal), but not necessarily being concerned with getting as much old fluid out as possible.





I'm confused by your answer, Don---also, should the OP use three or five speed bleeders (I figure 3 is the correct answer but I'm curious to be completely sure)?

5 ports = 5 bleeders (but they recommend a different length for the ABS units. 1010S for the calipers and 1010 for the ABS)

 

[98lee]

Also, any recommendations on the stainless steel version versus the OEM steel versions?

http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/


Ghyslain

Personally, I would go with the stainless. All it takes is a little nick in the OEM cad. plating to get down to bare steel and start rusting and possibly seize. If you ever had a stuck bleeder screw, you would pay what ever it took to never have that happen again.

But, we are talking $35 vs $75 and if you are careful and use the proper torque you probably will never have a problem with the steel ones. They didn't have the stainless ones when I put mine on (cars and bikes).

 

[Zagando]

Now I know

Nope.

Flushing is completely flushing out the old fluid with new fluid. Basically to replace the old fluid that has been degraded by moisture.

Bleeding is to remove air in the system (to cure a spongy pedal), but not necessarily being concerned with getting as much old fluid out as possible.





I'm confused by your answer, Don---also, should the OP use three or five speed bleeders (I figure 3 is the correct answer but I'm curious to be completely sure)?

5 ports = 5 bleeders (but they recommend a different length for the ABS units. 1010S for the calipers and 1010 for the ABS)

Hi Lee, Many thanks for the clarification; now I know that there is a difference after all.

I realized that for my '94 with ABS I'll only need 4 as my front calipers only have one port instead of two as some other year K75s do (there is the small pipe that goes over the back of the front wheel to connect the two); so I would need two of each type for both pots and F/R calipers. Cool.

Btw, in response to your comment that my S might turn yellow from non-use (forgot where but somewhere else in this forum the other day)... ...I just got back from a very nice 92-mile ride down to my dentist's appointment near the south end of the island this afternoon. The aluminum tank may be getting a tad dull but the bike is far from turning yellow (never again!). Yay for gray!

We'd been having buckets of rain for the last few weeks so hadn't been riding much of anywhere until today. This morning there was a break in the onslaught so I fired up Berlina and zoomed down the highway across the Ka'u Desert (20-mile long stretch of ancient lava flows). As I was cruising along the edges of some 500-foot cliffs overlooking a wind-whipped Pacific Ocean I watched the odometer turn over to 24,000 miles, too.

Now back to the topic at hand, please excuse my minor diversion...

I know Spiegler also makes stainless speed bleeders so I might check and see if they carry the correct lengths for various ABS/caliper/year K-bikes as well. Thanks again for all the great info, Lee!

Regards, Jeff

 

[deilenberger]

I'm confused by your answer, Don---also, should the OP use three or five speed bleeders (I figure 3 is the correct answer but I'm curious to be completely sure)?

5 ports = 5 bleeders (but they recommend a different length for the ABS units. 1010S for the calipers and 1010 for the ABS)

Hi Lee,

If it was me (and it no longer is since I no longer own THE K75S..) I'd go for three. The ABS modulator bleeders can be rather easily reached when flushing the system just by stretching a bit... the front caliper bleeders are less-so, making it more worthwhile to install the SpeedBleeders. Rear caliper - well, it's certainly a snap to open/close manually when sitting on your little garage stool next to the bike pumping the rear-brake pedal.. so IMHO it's the owner's call on that one.

One point to REALLY emphasize for anyone doing this job (or bleeding the brakes)..

DO NOT move the brake lever/pedal past it's normal range of motion when doing the job.

The temptation is to push/pull the thing as far as it goes. Problem with that is the master-cylinder piston is now traveling in a portion of the cylinder where it normally doesn't. If there was any moisture in the system, that part of the cylinder is probably corroded and/or rusty. It may seem like the job went fine, but within a few weeks you end up with a leaking cylinder due to the damage the piston seal experienced.

Found that out the hard way when I used to rebuild Girling clutch cylinders on my 122S Volvo.. finally learned to be very careful on how far down/in the pedal/lever goes and haven't had this experience again.

 

[ghyber]

Hi Lee,

If it was me (and it no longer is since I no longer own THE K75S..) I'd go for three. The ABS modulator bleeders can be rather easily reached when flushing the system just by stretching a bit... the front caliper bleeders are less-so, making it more worthwhile to install the SpeedBleeders. Rear caliper - well, it's certainly a snap to open/close manually when sitting on your little garage stool next to the bike pumping the rear-brake pedal.. so IMHO it's the owner's call on that one.

Which three are you referring to: two front calipers + one rear ABS unit?

My 93 K75S has only one nipple on the front brakes. The other caliper being connected via a tube.

 

[deilenberger]

Which three are you referring to: two front calipers + one rear ABS unit?

My 93 K75S has only one nipple on the front brakes. The other caliper being connected via a tube.

That depends on the year of the K75. My '87 K75S which was retrofitted with ABS off a later K75 had a nipple on each caliper. So yes - two fronts, one rear.

 

[chuck_donahue]

Hi Lee,

well, it's certainly a snap to open/close manually when sitting on your little garage stool next to the bike pumping the rear-brake pedal.. so IMHO it's the owner's call on that one.

much easer to crack the bleeder, attach my vaccume pump, that way I can hold my beer in the other hand.

I got it at a garage sale for $5 + 20 to fix it.(Its just like the ones your auto mechanic would have hoioks up to an air compressor) along with my Handy lift, that I also felt like I stole.

 

[ghyber]

93 K75S - Bleeding the brake system

I just received my stainless steel Speedbleeder checkvalves and now have a few questions.

I did not remove the front wheel. I removed the BMW OEM front brake bleed valve and installed the Speedbleeder. I then noticed that I may have been able to keep the OEM dust cap cover on the new Speedbleeder valve. The Speedbleeder comes with a dust cap but it doesn't stay attached to the bleed valve.

Has anyone else retained the original dust cap with their Speedbleeder valves?

I pumped the handbrake lever making sure that I did not fully squeeze the lever to the grip; someone on this forum indicated not to exceed the normal piston travel, now I don't remember if he was refering to the brake pad pistons on the calipers or the master cylinder piston travel.

The flushed hydraulic fluid did not appear any different from the new BMW hydraulic fluid color nor did I see bubbles in the tubing from the checkvalve bleeder to the jar. However, I did notice some very small air bubbles inside the handlebar reservoir as I was pumping the lever. The reservoir was never empty.

Now, is that normal?

Last question: The Clymer BMW manual NOTE states that due to the number of pipes and hoses and volume of brake fluid used, one should not attempt to remove air bubbles with hande bleeding. I haven't changed the bleed valve of the ABS modulator yet. Does anyone here care to comment on the Clymer manual NOTE or have any words of advice for me?

How much fluid is contained in the ABS modulator unit?

Ghyslain

 

[ghyber]

Bump, no reply

 

[roncooper]

Last question: The Clymer BMW manual NOTE states that due to the number of pipes and hoses and volume of brake fluid used, one should not attempt to remove air bubbles with hande bleeding. I haven't changed the bleed valve of the ABS modulator yet. Does anyone here care to comment on the Clymer manual NOTE or have any words of advice for me?

How much fluid is contained in the ABS modulator unit?

Ghyslain[/QUOTE]

I have flushed my ABS 75RT using the hand method, MITYVAC, and Motion pro(movable speed bleeder) and all methods worked well. Do the modulators first and then the calipers. I don't know the volume of the modulators.

 

[MysticRed]

Last question: The Clymer BMW manual NOTE states that due to the number of pipes and hoses and volume of brake fluid used, one should not attempt to remove air bubbles with hande bleeding. I haven't changed the bleed valve of the ABS modulator yet. Does anyone here care to comment on the Clymer manual NOTE or have any words of advice for me?

Ignore Clymers on this one. It may take a little time but it can be done.

 

[ghyber]

Bleed Brake system - 93 K75S

In my conversion project of S-handlebar to C-handlebar, I changed the front brake hose and will need to bleed the front brake system. I figure that I might as well do the rear too.

I have all the goods, lots of DOT 4 brake fluid, new gasket rings, patience, and a brand new Mityvac Bleeder. However, a few months ago, I replaced the OEM vent screws to speed bleeders. Having said that, will the Mityvac generate enough vacuum to override the spring check valve of the speed bleeders or will the plastic tube collapse under the suction pressure?

 

[kgadley01]

Just a note: This would also a great time to replace those OEM rubber lines with Stainless Steel. Their not expensive, and well worth the swap... I got mine from Speigler.

 

[ghyber]

Just a note: This would also a great time to replace those OEM rubber lines with Stainless Steel. Their not expensive, and well worth the swap... I got mine from Speigler.

You're probably right but I just spent a bundle on an OEM brake line + shipping.

Maybe next year as I still need to replace the entire suspension. Just out of curiosity, how much was your kit from the manufacturer?

 

[bikerfish1100]

should be totally fine. has always worked for me.