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2016r 1200rs - charging?

ritterjr1200rs

New member
Hi - I was having problems with charging, I thought. So I got a totally new battery, charged overnight at 14v. Starts up fine and rides around the block a few times and then re-starts ok. A slightly longer ride, 10 minutes, and then it gets home and won't re-start. Battery has shrunken to 12.3 volts...from 14. and no action at all after a couple of coughs. So, it's not exactly draining the battery but it's not starting with 12-13 volts. (Should it?) I also replaced the voltage regulator just in case - twice - once with a junkyard version and then a new one. Still, same scenario. I would definitely not be doing this myself but I can't get an appointment with the local BMW dealer until May 27. I hate to miss a month of spring riding! Any suggestions welcome

2016 r1200rs

Thanks !
Jeff
 
You need to once again fully charge the battery. Then wait an hour after disconnecting the charger and:

1. Read the battery voltage.

2. Start the engine and read the voltage at idle.

3. While still running, read the voltage at 3,000 rpm.

Report back here.
 
Will do! Thanks!
Jeff


You need to once again fully charge the battery. Then wait an hour after disconnecting the charger and:

1. Read the battery voltage.

2. Start the engine and read the voltage at idle.

3. While still running, read the voltage at 3,000 rpm.

Report back here.
 
R1200rs report

I charged the battery and then It sat overnight, not installed and went down to 13.35. On the bike it went up to 14.4 when started. Stayed steady at higher revs.
Next steps? Take it out again and see if she holds the charge this time? I’ve tried this about four times and the results have always been the same - short ride ~ 5 minutes ~ shut off and restarts. Longer ride ~ 10 minutes, shut off and won’t restart…
Thanks for your help and suggestions!
 
Try watching the voltage while cranking. I'd replace the battery if it drops below 10 volts.
 
Tough to diagnose from afar. You could start the bike and run it for 30 seconds and shut it off. Repeat this and let us know how many times- 5 or so if it doesn’t crank enough to start look towards the battery.
OM
 
Tough to diagnose from afar. You could start the bike and run it for 30 seconds and shut it off. Repeat this and let us know how many times- 5 or so if it doesn’t crank enough to start look towards the battery.
OM

Great ideas - Looks like it drops down to 12.89 after five starts. Still dropping after each start … bad battery?
 
I think the battery is defective.

Would be nice to have the battery load tested. Paul’s looking for the voltage under starter load is another good test if you are set up to do it. These bikes expect/need a lot out of the (small) battery.
I’m thinking it’s battery related as well.
OM
 
Would be nice to have the battery load tested. Paul’s looking for the voltage under starter load is another good test if you are set up to do it. These bikes expect/need a lot out of the (small) battery.
I’m thinking it’s battery related as well.
OM

Back
To the store - he tested the battery and seemed it fine. Suggested checking the ground and the starter relay. I did neglect to mention — after a short ride, it usually restarts once. After that it doesn’t and does hit a discernible click before it stops cranking at all. Something? Anything? The battery is at 12.5 but not cranking. A switch open or overheated?
 
Back
To the store - he tested the battery and seemed it fine. Suggested checking the ground and the starter relay. I did neglect to mention — after a short ride, it usually restarts once. After that it doesn’t and does hit a discernible click before it stops cranking at all. Something? Anything? The battery is at 12.5 but not cranking. A switch open or overheated?

Checking connections is good advice. It could be as simple as moving wires around with a wooden paint stirrer while the starter button is activated.
On a “bad” connection, the first start can sorta “jump” and “weld” the connection enough to start. Activity past that can shake the connection loose again.
You can have a look at the kill switch as well by moving it through its range while trying to start the bike. They can get goofy especially if you don’t use it regularly.
OM
 
Checking connections is good advice. It could be as simple as moving wires around with a wooden paint stirrer while the starter button is activated.
On a “bad” connection, the first start can sorta “jump” and “weld” the connection enough to start. Activity past that can shake the connection loose again.
You can have a look at the kill switch as well by moving it through its range while trying to start the bike. They can get goofy especially if you don’t use it regularly.
OM

Since the battery positive connection is buried deep inside the battery compartment, I'd start there.

Frank
 
Starter replacement

Finally got the bike to a mechanic who thinks it’s the starter. When it’s hot it doesn’t crank more than even once…Anyone else seen this? It s a big issue on the r1200r forum.
 
Finally got the bike to a mechanic who thinks it’s the starter. When it’s hot it doesn’t crank more than even once…Anyone else seen this? It s a big issue on the r1200r forum.

This can be caused by starter drag. Drag can be caused by a worn bushing or even just clearances between the armature and the starter body being too tight.
 
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