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2016 R1200RT clutch slipping in high gears when accelerating...

Clutch lever plunger

You might want to check to see if you have at least some free travel on the clutch lever. On my 2016 R1200RT, the clutch lever plunger was set improperly from the factory, so that when you pulled on the lever, there was zero take up and instantly began disengaging the clutch. Without even touching the lever, it was likely putting some hydraulic pressure to the slave cylinder, which can cause the clutch to slip under high load. It is like driving a manual car down the road and resting your foot on the clutch pedal (a big no). The plunger should be adjusted so that when you pull on the clutch lever, there should at least a tiny amount of movement before you feel the resistance created to start disengaging the clutch. This will ensure that the clutch is allowed to fully engage when the lever is released. There are posts here on how to adjust the brake or clutch plungers (they have the same setup). This is a different adjustment than the round knobs for adjusting the lever positions, as they don’t change the take-up/free travel of the plunders. I was able to do the adjustment without taking the lever apart or removing the plunger, all you need is a 2mm Allen (hex) key, and a way to deal with the red Loctite on the set screw. I used the tip of a soldering iron to apply a little heat on the set screw to soften the Loctite, it was an easy adjustment.
 
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You might want to check to see if you have at least some free travel on the clutch lever. On my 2016 R1200RT, the clutch lever plunger was set improperly from the factory, so that when you pulled on the lever, there was zero take up and instantly began disengaging the clutch. Without even touching the lever, it was likely putting some hydraulic pressure to the slave cylinder, which can cause the clutch to slip under high load. It is like driving a manual car down the road and resting your foot on the clutch pedal (a big no). The plunger should be adjusted so that when you pull on the clutch lever, there should at least a tiny amount of movement before you feel the resistance created to start disengaging the clutch. This will ensure that the clutch is allowed to fully engage when the lever is released. There are posts here on how to adjust the brake or clutch plungers (they have the same setup). This is a different adjustment than the round knobs for adjusting the lever positions, as they don’t change the take-up/free travel of the plunders. I was able to do the adjustment without taking the lever apart or removing the plunger, all you need is a 2mm Allen (hex) key, and a way to deal with the red Loctite on the set screw. I used the tip of a soldering iron to apply a little heat on the set screw to soften the Loctite, it was an easy adjustment.

Thanks, I checked it and there is a small amount of play prior to the clutch starting to disengage.

Wlecome to the Forums!!


Ski
 
If I understand this correctly, when hot the hydraulic fluid was so full that it might have actually been pressurized but in any case was overflowing when you removed the lid.

If so this condition could easily cause the clutch slipping once the system was hot.

I would recheck the system when hot and if still full reduce the level a little bit.

Will do, thanks.
Ski
 
I was experiencing the same issue on my 2014RT with 60K miles on it. I replaced the clutch. Problem solved. I looked at the clutch plates when I picked up the bike from the dealer and they were well worn. Mileage is not always a good indicator of when you need to replace the clutch. It can be affected by how aggressive you ride the bike or how much time you spend riding at slow speeds in the friction zone. My advice is to shop around if you decide to have the clutch replaced. I got quotes of $4000, $2400, and $1100 from 3 different BMW motorcycle dealers. The dealer with the lowest quote services RTs for several of the local police departments and had the back to me in a couple of days. If you want any more info, feel free to contact me. Hope this helps.
 
I was experiencing the same issue on my 2014RT with 60K miles on it. I replaced the clutch. Problem solved. I looked at the clutch plates when I picked up the bike from the dealer and they were well worn. Mileage is not always a good indicator of when you need to replace the clutch. It can be affected by how aggressive you ride the bike or how much time you spend riding at slow speeds in the friction zone. My advice is to shop around if you decide to have the clutch replaced. I got quotes of $4000, $2400, and $1100 from 3 different BMW motorcycle dealers. The dealer with the lowest quote services RTs for several of the local police departments and had the back to me in a couple of days. If you want any more info, feel free to contact me. Hope this helps.

Novice question. Can't one JUST replace the friction plates? They would be fairly inexpensive and an easy swap on the newer wethead bikes where the clutch is right behind the front tire and not buried. Aftermarket friction plates are typically under $100.

Thoughts?
 
It was the clutch

Had a new "clutch pack" (BMW won't sell just the plates) installed and all seems fine for now.

I guess I need to modify my shifting habits.

Ski
 
No problem, I may have tolaunch a go fund me effort to pay for it though.:whistle

No kidding. Did you get just the plates or opt for the whole packge including the clutch hub and pressure plate? In your shoes I might have opted for the Rekluse clutch pack - $679.
 
No kidding. Did you get just the plates or opt for the whole packge including the clutch hub and pressure plate? In your shoes I might have opted for the Rekluse clutch pack - $679.

I went with the BMW clutch package (plates, pressure plate, hub) for $830. Dealler told me that the hub was damaged and for "only" $150 (plus labor) more than the Rekluse I got everytthing replaced.

Ski
 
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