2004 R1150R clutch question

[bpotter]

Hello all!

I have a relatively new to me 04 Rockster and need some advice. I'm new to BMW's and have enjoyed the bike in the time I've had it but the clutch has begun to slip on hard acceleration. The bike only has 17K miles so I'm surprised.

My question is what steps to follow before splitting the bike in half to replace the disc. Could it be a hydraulic problem, and how can I easily check that? I understand the slave cylinders are suspect on these models and I've heard that rear main seal leaks can destroy the clutch as well. I don't see any signs of a leak externally and the clutch master cyl fluid level is not low.

Any insight would be appreciated!

 

[PGlaves]

The typical cause of those symptoms is a failure of the seal in the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder. This allows clutch fluid to flow along the pushrod cavity from the back to the front of the transmission. This fouls the clutch disk.

 

[pauls1150]

Also - make sure the clutch's master cylinder is not OVER-filled, as that will keep pressure applied down at the slave cylinder. It should be at about the center of the glass' circle with the bike level and the handlebars straight forward. Note that this fluid level goes UP as the clutch wears.
There is also a little wheel on the clutch lever for personal adjustment of where the friction point is.

 

[skag]

Clutch Replacement

Hopefully it is not as bad as mine. The splines on the clutch and the transmission shaft were destroyed. The bike only had 38,000 miles on it. I had to rebuild the Transmission and replace the the clutch assembly. It is not an easy task all the way around as ignorer to get a lot of the sections torn apart you have to heat them and get them to certain temperatures. I did get mine all done and it works great but it is a lot of work. I have a 2004 R1150R which is about the same thing you have.

 

[bpotter]

Thanks for the replies, everyone!

I've heard that slave cyl. leaks are common. I pulled the starter and everything looks dry in the clutch area, but perhaps a small leak could foul the clutch disc without showing a lot of fluid elsewhere. I don't see any excess play in the assembly that would indicate spine failure.

The fluid in the master cyl. was over-full, so I pulled some out and rechecked - clutch still slips. Guess it's possible that the over-full condition caused the disc to wear if it was being held in the friction zone. From the bit I can see with the starter out, it appears to be a little over 5 mil thick (min spec is 4.8 or something according to my Clymer).

I suppose my next step is to pull the slave cyl and check for leakage. I have a feeling its going to need clutch replacement (which I'm not 100% convinced I want to do). The worst possible outcome would be to pull the clutch and it looks OK.

I have moderate mechanical skills (having worked in an auto shop 30 years ago) but don't have a bike lift or a strong desire to spend days messing with frozen bolts and such. I understand that BB has an oil resistant disc available, as well as one with a longer hub to fully engage the trans input shaft more fully - that would be my intention assuming the parts are available.

Any additional suggestions are appreciated.

 

[omega man]

Welcome to the forum!
You may want to fill in your profile or let us know where you are so there can be some suggestions for assistance.
Good luck.
Gary

 

[ksdcr]

I’m in southeast Pa. also, Bucks County. About 6 years ago, my local authorized BMW Service department replaced the clutch in my 2000 R1100 RS with about 60,000 miles. Although I was mostly satisfied with the work, it cost about $2300, parts and labor. Not sure if that has increased much today.

Thanks for the replies, everyone!

I've heard that slave cyl. leaks are common. I pulled the starter and everything looks dry in the clutch area, but perhaps a small leak could foul the clutch disc without showing a lot of fluid elsewhere. I don't see any excess play in the assembly that would indicate spine failure.

The fluid in the master cyl. was over-full, so I pulled some out and rechecked - clutch still slips. Guess it's possible that the over-full condition caused the disc to wear if it was being held in the friction zone. From the bit I can see with the starter out, it appears to be a little over 5 mil thick (min spec is 4.8 or something according to my Clymer).

I suppose my next step is to pull the slave cyl and check for leakage. I have a feeling its going to need clutch replacement (which I'm not 100% convinced I want to do). The worst possible outcome would be to pull the clutch and it looks OK.

I have moderate mechanical skills (having worked in an auto shop 30 years ago) but don't have a bike lift or a strong desire to spend days messing with frozen bolts and such. I understand that BB has an oil resistant disc available, as well as one with a longer hub to fully engage the trans input shaft more fully - that would be my intention assuming the parts are available.

Any additional suggestions are appreciated.