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2004 1150RT 30,200 miles
- Thread starter gino
- Start date
First thing you want to do if it has not already been done is CHANGE THE ORIGINAL RUBBER BRAKE LINES TO STAINLESS. Do it NOW.
Here's a possibly helpful thread....
http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?70808-High-mileage-2003-R1150RT-possible-problems
At the same time, don't get too freaked out by any horror stories you may hear/read. Use recommended oils and filters and adhere to the maintenance schedule and you'll be fine.
Here's a possibly helpful thread....
http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?70808-High-mileage-2003-R1150RT-possible-problems
At the same time, don't get too freaked out by any horror stories you may hear/read. Use recommended oils and filters and adhere to the maintenance schedule and you'll be fine.
roger 04 rt
New member
Gino,
Congrats, I own the same model with similar mileage. Here are the things I've replaced or upgraded over the past five years:
1. SS brake lines.
2. New stick coils
3. Second Load Relay (already on some bikes)
4. Replaced all in-tank fuel hoses (very important if it hasn't been done yet)
5. Inspect the clutch hub to transmission input shaft for excessive play.
Things I also changed:
5. Changed to stock spark plugs
6. Added an LC-1 (AF-XIED) mixture richening system.
7. Replaced the starter because the original dropped its internal cover onto the armature.
7.5 Left-side Cam Chain Tensioner
Things not to add/change.
8. No need to externalize the fuel filter
9. No need to change the coding plug
10. No need to remove the charcoal canister
11. No need for any other fueling mod
12. Leave the stock intake tubes
13. Leave the stock exhaust
14. If you have an AGM battery, don't use a Battery Tender Jr. charger.
Do give it a proper tune up and use stock fluids.
Congrats, I own the same model with similar mileage. Here are the things I've replaced or upgraded over the past five years:
1. SS brake lines.
2. New stick coils
3. Second Load Relay (already on some bikes)
4. Replaced all in-tank fuel hoses (very important if it hasn't been done yet)
5. Inspect the clutch hub to transmission input shaft for excessive play.
Things I also changed:
5. Changed to stock spark plugs
6. Added an LC-1 (AF-XIED) mixture richening system.
7. Replaced the starter because the original dropped its internal cover onto the armature.
7.5 Left-side Cam Chain Tensioner
Things not to add/change.
8. No need to externalize the fuel filter
9. No need to change the coding plug
10. No need to remove the charcoal canister
11. No need for any other fueling mod
12. Leave the stock intake tubes
13. Leave the stock exhaust
14. If you have an AGM battery, don't use a Battery Tender Jr. charger.
Do give it a proper tune up and use stock fluids.
Last edited:
beemerphile
New member
Upgrade the left side cam chain tensioner if it has not already been done.
Oil and filter discussions are not allowed until winter after the bikes are put away.
Oil and filter discussions are not allowed until winter after the bikes are put away.
dieselyoda
Active member
Where do you live?
Thx. What is the proper oil filter size wrench? Thx.
Eastern Tennessee, Dandridge.
dieselyoda
Active member
Winterizing here in the heartland of humbleness and most awesome hockey as well as the highest per capita owners of snowblowers and the highest per capita number of heart attacks among those that don't own a snowblower is a bit different than your needs.
I need to season a number of engines from motorcycles to lawnmowers and boat motors but there are a few things that remain common to all:
Clean it super good, as in toothbrush and q-tip clean.
Pull the battery and keep warm, as in don't let it freeze. Charge/discharge a few times over the winter if you remember.
Change the engine oil.
Let the air out of the tires a bit.
Drain the fuel and carbs but leave that damn fuel shut-off alone on little engines. They always break in the spring when you turn them on.
If possible, a squirt of diesel or WD-40 in the cylinders and a couple of turns.
Wrap up the parts that critters like to eat and add moth balls or something similar.
Windshields and shiny plastic bits like a thin spray of dish washing soap.
Shiny metal bits like a spray of silicone.
After that, ensure beer fridge is defrosted, stove in the shop is ready to go and you downloaded the entire NHL schedule.
But you live in Tennesseeessee and apparently, I Googled living in Tenessissee, you think a cold winter is when you have to put long pants on. Google even said that you folks don't own skidoos! How can you live in such a god forsaken place where you can't ice fish?
Stock oil filter and whatever oil your manual recommends. That would be a good motorcycle oil, not car oil, 20W-50. Change them as recommended and you'll get zillions of miles out of your bike.
happy wanderer
Day Dreaming ...
Filters and oil from the dealer are very nice but pricey. I use after market suppliers like Euromotoelectrics, Beemer Boneyard and MotoBins in the UK for most of my parts. Also lucky to have an old Airhead shop near enough to be useful for older bike parts that our only local dealer orders and makes us wait for weeks to get.
Everything you need for oilhead filtration is on this page. For your immediate needs the kit in the top left corner is a good idea. Bosch filters are just fine as are Mann. Mahle is the most expensive and is what BMW sells for even more than here.
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/545.htm
There is a LOT of stuff for your oilhead on that site and the electrical stuff is good quality and priced competitively. Good people to deal with too.
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