2000 R1100rt front brake bleeding

[186207]

Been member for a long time but do not use the the forums much. I need to bleed the front brakes. I have a vacuum unit. Does the master cylinder need to be bled before the lower end?

 

[GTRider]

Unless the brake system and master cylinder have been completely emptied (replacing a line or MC, for example), it is generally not necessary to bleed the MC separately. But understand that BMW does not endorse vacuum devices for bleeding brakes, and they are not used at the factory—where fluid is pumped into the system under pressure. I’d suggest checking the factory service manual or Clymer manual for the recommended bleed procedure.

Best,
DeVern

 

[186207]

Unless the brake system and master cylinder have been completely emptied (replacing a line or MC, for example), it is generally not necessary to bleed the MC separately. But understand that BMW does not endorse vacuum devices for bleeding brakes, and they are not used at the factory—where fluid is pumped into the system under pressure. I’d suggest checking the factory service manual or Clymer manual for the recommended bleed procedure.

Best,
DeVern

Thank you, the Clymer manual has a procedure for a vacuum unit but is sketchy about the MC.

 

[m_stock10506]

need to bleed the front brakes. I have a vacuum unit.

You don't need anything special. You don't have to bleed the MC. The 1100RT front brakes are totally simple. The handlebar MC is the highest point. Everything else is lower. Put a clear hose on the caliper bleed screw leading into a bleed bag, bleed cup or a bottle with some brake fluid at the bottom. Open the bleed screw, remove the cover and bladder from the MC. Fluid should start to seep into the hose on the caliper. Gently squeeze the front brake lever, but not all the way to the grip, just normal length of brake travel. Fluid will flow into the hose. Don't let the MC empty all the way to the bottom or you will pull air into the line. Keep refilling the MC and pumping the lever. Refill the MC THREE times (that's my process) or more. Last time, get the fluid (DOT4) in the MC below the MAX line and close the caliper bleed screw. Switch the hose to the other caliper and open the bleed screw. Bleed just a few pumps on the other side until fluid is fresh looking and no air bubbles (sometimes air gets past the hose, so it isn't always coming from the brake line). Close the bleed screw, close the MC.

 

[AntonLargiader]

Vacuum won't hurt and usually makes for a cleaner process.

1) Suck all of the old fluid out of the reservoir and rest the rubber diaphragm back on
2) Remove the calipers and push the pads all the way back (you can do this by gently rocking the caliper on the rotor). Reinstall.
3) Remove the fluid from the reservoir again and fill with fresh fluid.
4) Draw fluid through under vacuum, mostly to one caliper and then briefly to the other.
5) Refill, then slowly (so the fluid doesn't squirt out, or put the diaphragm back as a cover) pump the brakes until the pads are on the rotor again.
6) Set your final fluid level and close it up. I wash the cover and diaphragm in water and thoroughly dry them to prevent fluid tracking to the outside of the cover.

At some point when you have the tank off, bleed a tiny bit (like one pump each) from the bleeders on the ABS unit. If there's a tiny bit of air there it will come out, and sometimes the fluid there is black. But you don't normally have to do this for a brake flush.

 

[Lendog]

If your bike has Servo ABS change the fluid unless you know that it has been changed recently,
Look at the 1-2-3-4 method of bleeding, don’t attempt the factory method

 

[AntonLargiader]

He stated his model in the subject line; if you're offering detailed advice you already know what system he has.

 

[Lendog]

He stated his model in the subject line; if you're offering detailed advice you already know what system he has.

I have no knowledge of this individual bike, I’ve seen several bikes with the ABS unit removed