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1994 K75S Z Hose Question

not easily. best to take that stuff off to do it. as a new owner, this is great opportunity to get in there and check other things like the air filter, FPR vacuum hose, fuel hoses, air intake elbow, etc. if they are original, they all need to be replaced.

taking tank off is easy.
 
is it possible to replace this hose without removing the gas tank and then the air filter. On my 94 k75 (naked version) it looks like the hose is jammed right underneath the air filter with no room to lift it off.

I am a proud new owner of this k75 so have a lot to learn!

Rob

Rob, i had the same question on my 93 nakid as well. As long as you can get to the clamp screws, as in facing to the left side, yes, very easy it turns out. I removed the plastic cover on the coils and had plenty of room. The hose is very pliable and slips over the crankcase stub easily. About ten minutes work. Cheers.
 
Chunk is correct (even if he does live in the wrong end of the state:jester).

The lower hose clamp needs to be FULLY loosened to the max to get it off and needs to be over the hose when you slip it back on.

Quick easy job.





:dance:dance:dance
 
Seems to me that in years past the “Z” Hose was a good bit higher priced. :dunno As much as 50% or more. That’s just from memory and probably not even correct. $15 + is certainly tolerable. (Though seems to me also that K75 oil filters went way up once to see what the market would bare. That drove me off.)
Ridiculously priced parts make me put off replacement until I can pay for them without Credit.

Which brings me to my point. I also have considered replacement Hose alternatives. Memory again tells me that on my K75’s the two connection points for that “Z”hose are two different O.D.’s. Sound right ?

Would love to hear alternative methods if someone has done alternate hose piping on one or more bikes.

Charlie
 
Z Hose : First Sign of Going BAD

The Z hose will someday get its first crack. Temperature of the air and motor etc will allow the crack to open ever so slightly but only for short periods at any time during the ride, then more heat or less heat will help the hose get more rubbery or more stiff and seal itself for a while or a day or a few days then . . . You will notice that it doesn't go right, you might think it is bad gas or a hundred other things. Once you get a big crack or several you'll figure it out more easily.

One time in WY or so it would not go up a long stretch (several miles) under high power (85mph loaded for camping) in warm weather, the motor seamed weak. A call to a great Dealer's svc people said, " sounds like a leaky Z hose." It would fix itself when you turned off the bike and it cooled some. Some rubbery tape wrapping at a hardware store made the Z hose work right for a thousand miles, the dealer in Kansas City had a new Z hose I bought.


85 K100RS w 198,000 near Philly

Happy New Year 2019 and hope this helps some of you.
 
I don't think I've ever ran across this, but why aren't we using two 90 degree elbows, decent hose and another couple of clamps between these two fittings? This pipe isn't under a lot of pressure and it seems the rise/run would allow for an okay slope?

Just thining :hide
 
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