1990 K75S Factory rear shock or aftermarket?

[scottishsg]

Hi all,
Does anybody know if this is a factory rear shock or some sort of aftermarket? It looks adjustable to me and I did not think the bikes came with that or not. This is on my project K75S 1990. Thanks for any input!!!

 

[98lee]

That's the factory stock shock. It's got to be worn out by now.

Do yourself a favor and replace it with a Progressive 412-4015B.

http://cycleplicity.com/products/19...o1&network=g&gclid=CJnsz7_B0MACFU2RfgodEH8ALA

The picture in this ad is a generic picture. The shock does not look like that picture. It also says Harley in the ad which is not correct. But this is almost $70 off list for a shock that works VERY well on a K75S.

 

[scottishsg]

Thank you very much for the prompt reply!! Will be definitely looking into the progressive!

 

[mikeyork5]

Exactly what I did on my 87 K75T several years ago. The original was tired, the Progressive has been great (and it is reasonably priced).

 

[scottishsg]

Thanks Mike! Will def go that route!

 

[98lee]

The Progressive mounts the opposite of the stock shock; shaft UP.

 

[roofertoo]

94 K75 standard with ABS

Hi Lee,

I've been following this thread and wondered if this shock will fit a 94 K75 standard with ABS? I picked up this bike last summer with low miles. It has the C windshield and the original shock.

Thanks.....

 

[98lee]

Steve,

The progressive 412-4015B will fit any K75 or 2valve K100. If you're looking for a shorter shock, the 412-4016B is 3/4" shorter.

 

[roofertoo]

Lee, is there any advantage over the shorter shock.. I"m 6'2".. don't know if height makes a difference in the length of shock... I bought this bike because it is a bit more comfortable for me to ride compared to the S...I've been having a bit of neck problems due to the position of riding with low handle bars on my K 75s..but still love to ride it...

Thanks, Steve

 

[98lee]

Only advantage is for those that can't touch the ground. The bike you just picked up has a factory low seat which should make the seat to peg distance a bit tight for you.

On your S, you may want to try A&S barbacks. Raises bars about 1 5/8" and moves to the rear about the same. GREATLY increases the comfort. Made specifically for K bikes. Provision for dash pad mount. A '94 should NOT require different brake hose. Easy 15 minute install.

http://www.ascycles.com/detail.aspx?ID=1349


PM sent.

 

[scottishsg]

Great info! Thanks!

 

[jwetering]

Lee knows of what he speaks. He hasn't yet told you to upgrade to progressive front sprimgs, but i suspect he will soon.

That is how my 90 S is set up, with the 412 shock and the barbacks and the progressive front springs. I nearly cry sometimes when I ride it, its such a pleasant experience.

The front springs were dead easy to install...almost easier than the rear, but pay attention to the advice above about mounting the 412 upside down compared to stock. I did it wrong the first time and the i blew a seal.

 

[scottishsg]

Thanks the rear shock is great advice that no one would think of. The front springs, I was looking at progressives. Do I take the weight off the front then just unscrew the caps at top and drop in? Or is it more complicated than that? I think I need to also replace the fork seals as they look to be leaking. I can take apart $100,000 cars all day long but this is my first bike project!

 

[98lee]

Just as with a car, it is most helpful to have a good manual.

The three main ones are the factory BMW one, Haynes, and Clymer.

They each have their own strengths and weaknesses. The BMW one fits in the underseat tool tray, but is almost 3 times the cost and has less procedural instructions for some work. The Haynes has nice color electrical schematics, but is the thinest, not covering some procedures in as much detail. The Clymer seems to go into more detail on somethings, but uses a slightly awkward supplement section in the back to cover changes to bikes built between 1990-1995.

I have all three, but prefer the Clymer for most work.

Whichever one you get, make SURE that you get the newer editions that cover from 1985-1995 as there are still earlier editions available that only cover 1985-1988.

The Clymer has very detailed instructions, pictures, and diagrams regarding rebuilding forks and spring changes. BMW did not change the forks to the newer Showa forks until 1992, so the info on your forks will be in the front main section.

 

[jwetering]

Thanks the rear shock is great advice that no one would think of. The front springs, I was looking at progressives. Do I take the weight off the front then just unscrew the caps at top and drop in? Or is it more complicated than that? I think I need to also replace the fork seals as they look to be leaking. I can take apart $100,000 cars all day long but this is my first bike project!

Lee makes a good point about having a good manual but my 1990 K75s has the earlier forks and changing the front springs was a simple matter of:

1) draining the shock oil
2) removing the fork tube caps
3) cutting a new spacer from the plastic pipe supplied with the springs
4) inserting the springs and spacers
5) re-installing the caps
6) putting in fresh oil.

I can't remember if I had to remove my fairing...I don't think so.

I had already replaced my fork seals the year before. That job wasn't too bad but the fork seals on my 1996 K1100RS are leaking and those are Marzocchi forks. That will be more complex but in the grand scheme - maintaining bikes is trivial compared to luxury cars.

In addition to my k-bikes I have a 2002 Porsche and a 2004 Audi that I maintain entirely by myself (clutches, suspension...you name it). The K-bikes are by far the easiest to work on but the Porsche is surprisingly easy as well. The Audi on the other hand. OMG it is unbelievable how the engineers at Audi can turn simple job into an 8 hour nightmare. I spent two hours just this weekend trying to find the clutch slave cylinder so I could bleed it. I never did *see* the damned thing. I found it with my hands and managed to do the job entirely blind.

But I digress.....it sounds like you will have no problem with any job your k-bike throws at you. I use the Clymer and the good advice right here on this forum.

 

[scottishsg]

Thanks for all the input. As easy as the K looks, when you've never touched one, it can be a little intimidating. Nothing ventured and all....I'm definitely going for it, it's just how fast and how much at a time.
I think the front springs should be simple enough, the rear is a no brainer. I have a lot of pitting which I've been cleaning, but any pitting around the seals is not good. May end up having to replace the forks.
I do have the Clymer and Haynes books and read them thoroughly!!
Again, thanks for the input!! I'll keep you informed as to progress!!

 

[scottishsg]

Also, I work for Jaguar, so I know how you feel about working blind. It's all about what you know and what you're prepared to attempt! I'm excited about the journey I'm embarking on, as well as the journeys we will share in the future!

 

[jwetering]

Also, I work for Jaguar, so I know how you feel about working blind. It's all about what you know and what you're prepared to attempt! I'm excited about the journey I'm embarking on, as well as the journeys we will share in the future!

Ouch - working on complex British cars is a whole other world of pain. You have my sympathy and respect.