1982 R100RS Clutch Replacement DYI?

[dennisarner]

I think my new to me 1982 R100RS (sold the 83) is near end of life in the clutch. Seems OK until the bike warms up then it seems to engage at various positions of the handle. Is this something a reasonably mechanically able person can do, or do I hand it over to a pro? About how many hours does it take? Special tools needed?

 

[20774]

First, be sure the clutch is adjusted right. In the link in my sig line is a link to a post about the clutch adjustment procedure for Airheads.

Beyond that, yes it should be something you can do. There are only a few special tools needed...a modified 27mm socket to remove the swingarm pins plus a torque wrench to reinstall. For general steps to get the transmission off, check this out:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/spline/

This is only to just pull the tranny back to lube the splines, but moving beyond this is not too difficult to expose the clutch pack.

 

[dennisarner]

Interesting. I thought the "spline lube" i was hearing mentioned here and there was referring to the rear drive splines, which I already learned about on my last bike. I see this transmission spline area as a new thing. OK. Thanks.

 

[toooldtocare]

Having lived in Wilkes Barre PA, I can gladly report to you that there is a very large group of Airheads there that will be willing to help you do this job. I have attended their tech days, and other events several times. If you are not a member, visit their website for more info. http://www.airheads.org/

The Air-Marshal (airmarshal) there is a friend of mine and I will be glad to give you the contact info via PM. If you are an airhead member, you can find the info on the last page of Airmail Magazine. Just look under Pennsylvania, without his permission, I would rather not list it here. At a recent tech-day in Saint Louis we did a clutch/spline/rear seal, oil pump oil ring job in a day, although problems sometimes do occur.

Wayne

 

[dennisarner]

I am newly ABC Member #14450. Thank you. I am about 2 hours from WB. I will tackle this over the winter. I don't think it is an adjustment issue in that it works fine until well into a run, and then it grabs with the handle further out. It engages smoothly though, so I believe the flywheel is fine.

 

[toooldtocare]

It is a simple job, but if go in there, also replace the rear engine seal and oil pump O ring. This requires removing the flywheel. You will need a tool, easily made, to lock the crank. Also, make sure you put some rags, or something else under the front engine cover to keep the crank from sliding forward. This is very important, failure to do so may mean taking the engine apart to replace a 30 cent part.

 

[SCBuckeye]

In my opinion, no need to replace rear main seal at this time unless there is evidence of leakage. Since it is not difficult to get to splines to lube them, to go further to get to seal requires removal of the whole clutch. Why?

 

[toooldtocare]

I thought this too, did a spline lube only, then had the rear sear go bad a few months later and ruin the clutch.

 

[bob_m]

The "while I'm in there" rationale is a bottomless pit. I agree w/ Jimmylee, Fix what needs fixing, and if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

[SCBuckeye]

I thought this too, did a spline lube only, then had the rear sear go bad a few months later and ruin the clutch.

Yes! And if we only had that crystal ball. If the bike has had reasonable care, and not set around for long lengths of time (which allows seals to 'dry out") then it is unlikely that there will be a seal problem.

As for the previous comment, keep a close eye on everything and look for signs of oil leakage down and around the bottom of the engine in the clutch area. Usually seals don't go with a gush of oil, but rather slowly drip by drip.

Also, once you have done the process (lubing the clutch spline), it is not a hard or difficult process to get back in there. On mine (/7) the second time, it took me only about 45 minutes to get back into that clutch area.