2slowwheels
Member
Talk me into or out of this bike. 1977, 35,000 miles, has bags, needs a good clean up and fork seals. $2,200
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1977 r100/7
- Thread starter 2slowwheels
- Start date
Talk me into or out of this bike. 1977, 35,000 miles, has bags, needs a good clean up and fork seals. $2,200
Are you looking to buy this bike from someone and you're looking for us to talk you out of it?
....or....
Are you looking for one of us to buy the bike from you? Just a note, posting guidelines don't allow buying/selling on the forum. We'll be glad to help you with something you want to purchase if you have questions about a separate sale you're contemplating...
....or....
Are you looking for one of us to buy the bike from you? Just a note, posting guidelines don't allow buying/selling on the forum. We'll be glad to help you with something you want to purchase if you have questions about a separate sale you're contemplating...
2slowwheels
Member
I am looking at it to buy for myself, not trying to sell, just seeking collective Airhead wisdom
I don't necessarily see anything wrong with that. Issues would be prior maintenance, but with only 35K miles, the bike will have been sitting a long time or for long periods. Could be that selected rubber seals will need to be replaced, specifically push rod tube seals. But $2200 seems like a decent price going in. If you can find obvious things wrong with it by general observations, you can take a few dollars off.
That's basically my bike, just a year older and with a lot less miles. Not sure I'm that keen on the floor boards, though...seems like that would limit corner clearance.
That's basically my bike, just a year older and with a lot less miles. Not sure I'm that keen on the floor boards, though...seems like that would limit corner clearance.
toooldtocare
Active member
Seems like it is pretty decent shape. I would not be afraid of it for that price. You can tell it was ridden moderately with floorboards and that fairing.
One told me once, that no matter what you pay for one, you will end up having about $5,000.00 in it to get it back up to snuff.
I would be checking the cylinders as well, as when setting, they rust. Lots of possible issues with electrics/connections etc.
But they are worth it if you are into repairing yourself and have patience and like that era.
No other BMW can match the glory of those old Airheads!
I would be checking the cylinders as well, as when setting, they rust. Lots of possible issues with electrics/connections etc.
But they are worth it if you are into repairing yourself and have patience and like that era.
No other BMW can match the glory of those old Airheads!
RPGR90s
Member
Worst thing you can do to an Airhead is let it sit and rot. Rubber cracks and splits. Rust forms internally.
Consider all that before you make the plunge because it looks like a very, very nice bike that you will end up putting some money into.
RPG
I have a soft spot in my brain for 77 R100's
Look in the tank and see if there is any rust generally but specifically along the bottom seam near the outlet on the left side. Tanks are a problem because they are scarce now. Rusted mufflers will have seams that bulge. The mileage is low enough and the accessories indicate to me that it was purchased and ridden in the 70s and has been stored by its original owner or perhaps being sold by someone who picked it up cheap from the first owners family. The Luftmeister fairing and bags were a Factory/Dealer install in 77 along with the spill guards. The Reynolds back rest is after market as are the floor boards. Look for battery acid damage to the frame either side of the battery tray - if there isn't any, the bike was well cared for. Check the foot brake pedal. There are rows of tiny aluminum pyramids and with 35K miles the front row and a portion of the outside row will be worn off by half with the rest showing modest to no wear. Hand levers should be tight in the handles not floppy and switches may still have legible writing visible. The fairing is a BMW copy of a Vetter and uses the BMW headlight assembly and front turn signal assemblies. Problems you might encounter with this particular machine are mostly from sitting for years. Pushrod seals leak the older they get. The rear main seals were a common 70's replacement item after 30-40K. Early /7 transmissions had shimming issues but were usually replaced within the first 5K miles. Piston rings get stuck in the lands as the oil hardens from sitting and the piston actually settles slightly making it "slap" on start up. And of course, the rings become "welded" to the iron bore by rust from sitting. Carbs will probably need new parts and the ATE master cylinder is probably rust pitted along with the caliper piston and those items are directly related to maintenance. Does the bike run? Have you heard it run? If you buy it I would immediately perform a complete 10K service to bring it up to factory specs. That and riding it will uncover most of the nits you'll wind up picking. Battery and tires and you'll ride it for years with proper maintenance. I have the parts, time and experience to deal with that bike. I'd buy it if I had room for another. Just as a parts bike it has a lot of low mileage assemblies that would keep the rest of my bikes going for years. Hopefully all the keys will come with it.
Look in the tank and see if there is any rust generally but specifically along the bottom seam near the outlet on the left side. Tanks are a problem because they are scarce now. Rusted mufflers will have seams that bulge. The mileage is low enough and the accessories indicate to me that it was purchased and ridden in the 70s and has been stored by its original owner or perhaps being sold by someone who picked it up cheap from the first owners family. The Luftmeister fairing and bags were a Factory/Dealer install in 77 along with the spill guards. The Reynolds back rest is after market as are the floor boards. Look for battery acid damage to the frame either side of the battery tray - if there isn't any, the bike was well cared for. Check the foot brake pedal. There are rows of tiny aluminum pyramids and with 35K miles the front row and a portion of the outside row will be worn off by half with the rest showing modest to no wear. Hand levers should be tight in the handles not floppy and switches may still have legible writing visible. The fairing is a BMW copy of a Vetter and uses the BMW headlight assembly and front turn signal assemblies. Problems you might encounter with this particular machine are mostly from sitting for years. Pushrod seals leak the older they get. The rear main seals were a common 70's replacement item after 30-40K. Early /7 transmissions had shimming issues but were usually replaced within the first 5K miles. Piston rings get stuck in the lands as the oil hardens from sitting and the piston actually settles slightly making it "slap" on start up. And of course, the rings become "welded" to the iron bore by rust from sitting. Carbs will probably need new parts and the ATE master cylinder is probably rust pitted along with the caliper piston and those items are directly related to maintenance. Does the bike run? Have you heard it run? If you buy it I would immediately perform a complete 10K service to bring it up to factory specs. That and riding it will uncover most of the nits you'll wind up picking. Battery and tires and you'll ride it for years with proper maintenance. I have the parts, time and experience to deal with that bike. I'd buy it if I had room for another. Just as a parts bike it has a lot of low mileage assemblies that would keep the rest of my bikes going for years. Hopefully all the keys will come with it.
