1150 GS fuel gauge sender / potentiometer board

[davidjjeffrey]

I have a 2002 1150GS. I recently installed a new fuel pump at 100K miles. We accidentally initially reversed the polarity due to German vs USA made pump. The pump is now working fine, BUT, the fuel gauge is NOT. It is only reading empty and the yellow fuel light is always on.

Does anyone know where I can find a new electronic board for the internal fuel gauge potentiometer?[/B][/B] I believe we might have fried it during the reverse polarity trial.

OR, if not that, does anyone know where I can find a fuel gauge sender unit?

Thanks. Dave. (fool4water@yahoo.com or 828-506-3961 cell)

 

[henzilla]

Try one of the salvage guys, one is

www.beemerboneyard.com

 

[gsaddict]

Reversing the motor leads should not affect the 2 functions you mention

Before you condemn the board be sure the float arm is not jammed.

I assume you have some fuel in the tank

Test quickly by measuring from the brown wire at the connector to the yellow wire - if you get somewhere around 80 ohms the sender is likely good.
The range is typically 3 ohms full to 80 ohms empty.

The fact the the low fuel light is on (white wire) indicates continuity on that part of the sender board

Sender boards are not available by themselves but may be removed from a donor fuel pump plate from another GS. You need soldering skills.
I believe the Rts have the same board in them with the fuel strip part not connected (they just use the low fuel indication) and use a seperate sender for actual fuel level.

Sources for used: Beemer Boneyard, Re-Psycle parts, ADV Rider flea market, IBMWR flea market

 

[PGlaves]

I'm curious about how German electrons are different than North American electrons?

 

[20774]

I'm curious about how German electrons are different than North American electrons?

I seriously doubt that was the issue. Maybe what he was referring to was instructions in German??

 

[omega man]

I have a 2002 1150GS. I recently installed a new fuel pump at 100K miles. We accidentally initially reversed the polarity due to German vs USA made pump. The pump is now working fine, BUT, the fuel gauge is NOT. It is only reading empty and the yellow fuel light is always on.

Does anyone know where I can find a new electronic board for the internal fuel gauge potentiometer?[/B][/B] I believe we might have fried it during the reverse polarity trial.

OR, if not that, does anyone know where I can find a fuel gauge sender unit?

Thanks. Dave. (fool4water@yahoo.com or 828-506-3961 cell)

Welcome to the forum Dave!
Gary

I'm curious about how German electrons are different than North American electrons?

Could be he isn't familiar with this particular repair.
OM

 

[pauls1150]

German elektrons vill alvaze march in step; American electrons may mill about aimlessly and complain.

 

[davidjjeffrey]

Thanks to all the replies!....LOL

Yes, German electrons are very different.....LOL No, what I meant was that we accidentally hooked up the wires backwards because the old BMW pump had + and - on reverse posts than the USA pump. We didn't take the time to read the little tiny inscriptions for the + and -, we just hooked up the new one the same way the old one was hooked up. Later we realized the posts were reversed from the German made to the USA made.....

I do appreciate the advice on not trashing the board just yet. Yes, we need to pull the tank, yet again, and take out the "innards" and test a bunch of things independently so we can see exactly what's going on. I do also appreciate the ohm readings and what they should mean. THANKS.

 

[mike54]

Yes, German electrons are very different.....LOL No, what I meant was that we accidentally hooked up the wires backwards because the old BMW pump had + and - on reverse posts than the USA pump. We didn't take the time to read the little tiny inscriptions for the + and -, we just hooked up the new one the same way the old one was hooked up. Later we realized the posts were reversed from the German made to the USA made.....

I do appreciate the advice on not trashing the board just yet. Yes, we need to pull the tank, yet again, and take out the "innards" and test a bunch of things independently so we can see exactly what's going on. I do also appreciate the ohm readings and what they should mean. THANKS.

Check that you didn't fry the ground wire.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=241775

It's an easy fix and a lot cheaper than a new board.