• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

banjo bolts

brianfisk

New member
Hey all, I just in the process of changing the the brake lines on my 1998 RT. I want to tighten the banjo bolts correctly. The Clymer book says 15 NM/132 inch pounds. Seems high to me. What is your thoughts?

Brian
 
One of the threads below in the Similar Threads pane mentions 15NM for the banjo bolt on Oilheads.
 
I've installed many sets.
My preferred way is to tighten the bolt until you just feel the aluminum washer yield.
If using copper I do the same.
Never ever had a leak.

Note: If reusing copper - they should be annealed.
I won't reuse the aluminum ones.
 
I've installed many sets.
My preferred way is to tighten the bolt until you just feel the aluminum washer yield.
If using copper I do the same.
Never ever had a leak.

Note: If reusing copper - they should be annealed.
I won't reuse the aluminum ones.

Reusing crush washers makes as much sense as reusing toilet paper.
 
thanks

I've installed many sets.
My preferred way is to tighten the bolt until you just feel the aluminum washer yield.
If using copper I do the same.
Never ever had a leak.

Note: If reusing copper - they should be annealed.
I won't reuse the aluminum ones.

Thanks for the replies . I settled on 12.5 NM. felt the washers crush in that last little pressure.
 
Maybe in a perfect world Paul but when new ones are not available, annealing makes perfect sense.
It's done all the time, especially in the field.

:thumb

It’s been a long time since I’ve seen “optimum”.
It’s provided me with an ability to rarely be completely confuzzled and able to get back rolling.
OM
 
Maybe in a perfect world Paul but when new ones are not available, annealing makes perfect sense.
It's done all the time, especially in the field.

I won't argue with that but I can't remember the last time I used a copper crush washer for anything. I'm sure I have but just didn't notice what came in the "kit". I have not ordered a copper washer since probably the mid 1980s. Those were little ones for fork oil drain bolts if I recall.
 
I won't argue with that but I can't remember the last time I used a copper crush washer for anything. I'm sure I have but just didn't notice what came in the "kit". I have not ordered a copper washer since probably the mid 1980s. Those were little ones for fork oil drain bolts if I recall.

I use them on Oilhead/Hexheads as well in industry. They are alive and well.
Many of the bikes that I see have them as well on Engines, Trans, FD's.
Takes 2 seconds to anneal them with a piezo start torch.
Good for many cycles unlike aluminum.

Aftermarket sellers agree
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/2925.htm
 
Last edited:
I use them on Oilhead/Hexheads as well in industry. They are alive and well.
Many of the bikes that I see have them as well on Engines, Trans, FD's.
Takes 2 seconds to anneal them with a piezo start torch.
Good for many cycles unlike aluminum.

Aftermarket sellers agree
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/2925.htm

Well, I have the little torch but I don't have any copper washers to use it on. Seriously, I don't recall using a copper washer in 35 years,
 
Whenever I install a rebuilt brake caliper on a vehicle there is copper washers in the kit. 425hp Cummins engine oil drain plug- copper washer. Nissan V8 van- copper drain plug washer.
While I remember back in the day, most of the drain washers were plastic. Nobody thought of changing them unless lost in the drain bucket. Even my old F800GS uses a copper washer on the drain plug :dunno
The Globeriders F800GS DVD has a section on the reuse of the copper washers.
OM
 
What's the difference between a crush washer and a crusher washer, and where would I find one of the latter on my R1150RT? Thanks.

Equally importantly, where might you find a copper washer on your R1150. In my 15 years and 180,000 miles of ownership of my R1150R I don't recall ever encountering one.
 
What's the difference between a crush washer and a crusher washer, and where would I find one of the latter on my R1150RT? Thanks.

Sorry, snausages for fingersers.

CRUSH WASHER. A crusher washer is the spray bar on the grizzlies and aren't interchangeable and not to be confused with the tailing washer.

And they are a pain as once crushed down, the only way to remove them is to bleed a little.

Copper washers are used everywhere. In fact, on my motorcycle, I got rid of the aluminum ones, mostly because I lost them. Any high pressure system that uses banjo bolts, like a diesel fuel system, use copper and seldom aluminum.

We have about four kits of copper washers from itsy bitsy to about 3" in diameter. Can get them from any place that sells nuts and bolts.
 
Equally importantly, where might you find a copper washer on your R1150. In my 15 years and 180,000 miles of ownership of my R1150R I don't recall ever encountering one.

I found one on the oil drain plug, one on the transmission drain plug, and one on the final drive drain plug. Also when I replaced the OEM brake hoses I found copper crush washers on all the original banjo bolts. Granted, I bought the bike used a little over a year ago and have no idea who might have installed these copper crush washers. And to compound my ignorance, this particular bike is the first one I've owned since selling my CB900C back in 1989. My knowledge of maintenance of a modern motorcycle is almost entirely what I've learned on this forum and by working on my RT over the past year.

When I changed the transmission and final drive oil I used new copper crush washers, but for the oil drain plug I just reused the old washer. So far no leaks, but on all oil changes in the future I'll use a new washer (or try annealing the old one as has been suggested on this thread; it seems like a simple enough procedure).
 
Sorry, snausages for fingersers.

CRUSH WASHER. A crusher washer is the spray bar on the grizzlies and aren't interchangeable and not to be confused with the tailing washer.

And they are a pain as once crushed down, the only way to remove them is to bleed a little.

Ah. Thanks for clarifying :thumb
 
Back
Top