2011 R1200rt winter valve adjustment

29,000 Kilometres on bike. Checking valve adjustment. I found all the exhaust between 30to35mm and on the intake 15to18mm. My Haynes manual calls for 40-66 on exhaust and 23-43 on the intake. The bike run powerfully and quiet. I found a Youtube video that says my bike is within spec and many comments on the forum that says I should not need to do an adjustment at this low milage. What is the correct info?

Your Haynes manual is WRONG! Actually, probably just one for the wrong model engine. The attachment is from the 2010-2013 RT (K26) BMW Repair Manual.

Pap is right. Your Haynes manual is wrong.

My Haynes manual states the same values as Pappy post. Check page 1.2 Servicing Specifications.

Thank for the input. Now I can put it back together.

Valve Clearances at 120,000 KMs

Was doing my winter maintenance over the weekend. My 2010 RT is at 120,000KMs, and I was pleased to find that my valve clearances are STILL within spec, and I have not changed out any semispheres thus far. I have owned this bike since 18,000 kms (4 years and MUCH fun), and still no valve clearance adjustments required. In case anyone is interested, I'm using Shell Rotella T6 15W40 exclusively and K&N oil filters (a few BMW filters, but switched to K&N as they cost less and appear good quality).

Happy with the results. I'll keep on riding it like I stole it.

Bought mine at 6,200 miles and recently finished my third valve inspection. Two exhaust valves were right at .40mm (having grown from .38mm at the first check) while all the others have been very stable. I expect to have to shuffle some shims around, or buy a few, at the 24k service. I love how easy these are to do compared to other shim-type adjuster bikes I've had.

More Winter Maintenance

In addition to checking the valves, I've also gone quite deep. Clutch has felt just fine, but was curious about the condition of the drive shaft u-joints and swing arm pivots, so it all came out. I was pleased to see after 120,000KMs that the drive shaft u-joints feel like new, no play, no signs of wear. They are sealed, so can't be greased, but did grease the splines and swing arm pivots, a thorough cleaning, and re-assembled everything back again. This prompted a few questions that I hope someone might have an answer to:

1. Are the u-joints in the driveshaft rebuildable or replacable? They appear to be peened into place. Has anyone had a shop replace joints on this shaft?
2. With 120,000KMs and no signs of wear, does anyone think putting the driveshaft back is a bad decision?
3. Shift linkage rod has a nylon bushing as a dirt seal on each end of the rod. These are badly cracked and worn, being replaced. Normal on a 10-year old bike? Being re-greased and re-installed.
4. Clutch shows no signs of wear or poor performance, so I'm not going to remove the trans and do anything to the clutch. No signs of oil leakage either. The right decision?

Always appreciate everyone's advice and experience.

marlen.padberg said:

1. Are the u-joints in the driveshaft rebuildable or replacable? They appear to be peened into place. Has anyone had a shop replace joints on this shaft?
2. With 120,000KMs and no signs of wear, does anyone think putting the driveshaft back is a bad decision?


Always appreciate everyone's advice and experience.

Click to expand...

I recently wen through this myself. I should probably write it up...

Question 1: It's generally beyond what most home-mechanics are able to do, with that said Machine Service, Inc in Wisconsin has replaced the joints for several riders on other forums. Gridlock Motors/BeemerUberAllis also provides this service. These were they only two places that I could find to rebuild a driveshaft.

Ted Porter's Beemershop sells a new, rebuild-able driveshaft , and that's the option that I went with.

Question 2: Driveshaft life seems to be all over the place - some people only were able to get 15k miles out of a driveshaft, while others had gone 150,000 miles or more. I was able to get ~93k on my 07 RT before the joints became stiff. I'd check it often to see how it's doing, if everything feels fine, then I'd keep riding.

Many failed driveshafts that I've seen have had a good amount of rust on them, one theory is that the rubber boot lets water into the swingarm, thereby washing out any grease in the joints. This seems to be worse in GS riders who ride their bikes in deep water.

Can we get the drive shaft rebuilders put into a sticky? Seems like good references to have on hand for future.

jandhumphreyme said:

Can we get the drive shaft rebuilders put into a sticky? Seems like good references to have on hand for future.

Click to expand...

In the “Tag Cloud” search.
OM

drneo66 said:

I recently wen through this myself. I should probably write it up...

Question 1: It's generally beyond what most home-mechanics are able to do, with that said Machine Service, Inc in Wisconsin has replaced the joints for several riders on other forums. Gridlock Motors/BeemerUberAllis also provides this service. These were they only two places that I could find to rebuild a driveshaft.

Ted Porter's Beemershop sells a new, rebuild-able driveshaft , and that's the option that I went with.

Question 2: Driveshaft life seems to be all over the place - some people only were able to get 15k miles out of a driveshaft, while others had gone 150,000 miles or more. I was able to get ~93k on my 07 RT before the joints became stiff. I'd check it often to see how it's doing, if everything feels fine, then I'd keep riding.

Many failed driveshafts that I've seen have had a good amount of rust on them, one theory is that the rubber boot lets water into the swingarm, thereby washing out any grease in the joints. This seems to be worse in GS riders who ride their bikes in deep water.

Click to expand...

Out of curiosity because my R1200RT has over 75,000 miles, I called "machineservice. com" in Green Bay, WI. The u-joint machinist said they replace the worn cross's and spot weld them into place. They do not machine worn yokes. Cost $260.00 for a two u-joint system. DP

drive shaft lube

there is a adapter that looks like hypodermic needle one end and the other end connects to a grease gun this set up is used to carefully insert grease under the seal to lubricate the needle bearings in the universal joints on your drive shaft.
peter

Drive Shaft Lube

You're telling me the joints can be lubricated even tho they are sealed? Can you point me to such a fitting?

google "needle grease adaptor"

petergsa said:

there is a adapter that looks like hypodermic needle one end and the other end connects to a grease gun this set up is used to carefully insert grease under the seal to lubricate the needle bearings in the universal joints on your drive shaft.
peter

Click to expand...

I would pass on this. The needle (actual needle point) tool is really for the rubber seals on like an automotive ball joint. There is a “stout” needle looking adapter that was made for the concave grease fittings that were used in the center of the + on a u-joint, used due to clearance issues.
Generally speaking, on a u-joint, the grease is applied at the center of the cross and slightly expelled out the seals in all 4 cups allowing fresh grease to do the lubricating.
If you decide to try greasing anything withe the needle point adapter, having the grease real warm and a hand pump grease gun is the way to go.
OM

Another season of maintenance...

As has been my regiment every winter, its maintenance season. Body work all comes off, it all gets a thorough cleaning, all the maintenance gets done. For those technically saavy, I have a bit of a situation. When the 2010 RT was ran at the end of the season (into November in Edmonton, if you can believe it), it ran flawlessly as it always does. Maintenance season begins:
- remove body work
- thorough cleaning
- final drive oil, trans oil, engine oil, filter
- lube final drive splines, clean wheels, check tires over for anything unusual
- check drive shaft u-joints to ensure they're moving nicely, but not bound up or loose
- bleed brakes front and rear, inspect calipers, clean rotors, clean pads
- valve covers come off, check all valves (all still in spec at 153,000 KMs - still no adjustments needed)
- insert TDC tool into the flywheel, check cam timing (everything is where it should be)
- new spark plugs
- new starter (the old one had produced a puff of smoke twice on startup, and I was suspicious of its health - had it tested at a local shop and they said it stinks badly of burning electrics)
- re-assemble

While doing maintenance this time, I thought it might be a good idea to look into the cam chain noises at startup. I removed the right-side cam chain tensioner to inspect it, and see if it had a broken or sagging spring. Initially, I didn't insert the TDC tool (a.k.a. 8.5mm drill bit) into the locating hole on the right side to hold the crank at TDC but I did check the cam timing afterwards and all is where it should be. Upon startup, there's a ticking sound that was definitely not there before, and persists after the new oil filter is full. It starts and runs very smoothly, except for the ticking sound. I've knocked one of the E-clips off the cam follower mounting shafts before (and the follower and semisphere falls into the valve cover), but I've had the valve covers off twice. I'm having some difficulty figuring out where this is coming from. Everything has been checked and double-checked, and torqued according to the specs in the haynes manual (also cross-referenced with a spec sheet I found online - they seem to concur). Thoughts about what I should be checking next?

Our maintenance regiment is a testament to the longevity of most any machine - take care of it and it will take care of you.... I tell people this bike has 150,000 kms, and they don't believe it. Very shortly, the 2019 RT that we purchased last year will also get the same treatment... I haven't had it undressed yet, so another learning experience.

Any thoughts about what might be causing the ticking noise would be appreciated. Its definitely engine/valve train - its not even in gear yet, and not rolling.

Marlen.

2011 r1200 rt

marlen.padberg said:

Was doing my winter maintenance over the weekend. My 2010 RT is at 120,000KMs, and I was pleased to find that my valve clearances are STILL within spec, and I have not changed out any semispheres thus far. I have owned this bike since 18,000 kms (4 years and MUCH fun), and still no valve clearance adjustments required. In case anyone is interested, I'm using Shell Rotella T6 15W40 exclusively and K&N oil filters (a few BMW filters, but switched to K&N as they cost less and appear good quality).

Happy with the results. I'll keep on riding it like I stole it.

Click to expand...

Yup, my 2011RT has 124,000 miles I bought it new, valves have been checked 3-4 times, adjustment never moved from new. Im using Amsoil 20-50 full synthetic motorcycle oil and change oil and filter at 6000 mile intervals, air filter twice per year and trans, differential, alternator belt and brake fluids every other year. Having a hard time wearing this motorcycle out, not sure who is going to last longer, me or my RT.

One other item of note....

Oh yeah - one other item of note to the above... I did also dismount the entire exhaust system, and got serious about polishing it with Autosol. Much elbow grease, it looks presentable again. Exhaust was re-mounted before new exhaust crush washers were installed. I wonder if the sound I'm hearing is a leaking exhaust seal. I didn't have the new exhaust O rings when the exhaust was dismounted, but they have since come in. I'm going to install them, then see if that solves the noise I'm hearing. We'll see soon enough...

A brief update re: the ticking issue...

A brief update... We replaced the exhaust O-rings that mount the exhaust to the cylinder heads. SOLVED! I think its important to note that when I dismounted the exhaust to polish it, I did also remove the exhaust O-rings, which I hadn't ever done before. I think my removal of those exhaust O rings made them not seal right any more. $12 repair for a pair of new ones, and that is now solved. This RT has 153,000 KMs, and is 100%, ready for another season. Clean and fully serviced, everything is perfect. My wife is so pleased (its her bike) that big girl's cough is no more.

As they say... Make life a ride.

Always good to hear how things worked out.
OM