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2002 R1150RT rev limiter

BILLK75

New member
Took the 1150 to work yesterday and while I was there it rained. When I started the bike at the end of the day it wouldn’t go above 3500 RPM. it acted like you had a Rev limiter. below that RPM it ran fine. But when you crossed it It would just cut out like a rev limiter was kicking in. I wrote it 50 miles home and that would never let me past the RPM threshold. When I got home I shut it off and went inside for like five minutes came out fire it back up and do some troubleshooting and it ran fine it all rpm’s. In the iPhones
 
Took the 1150 to work yesterday and while I was there it rained. When I started the bike at the end of the day it wouldn’t go above 3500 RPM. it acted like you had a Rev limiter. below that RPM it ran fine. But when you crossed it It would just cut out like a rev limiter was kicking in. I wrote it 50 miles home and that would never let me past the RPM threshold. When I got home I shut it off and went inside for like five minutes came out fire it back up and do some troubleshooting and it ran fine it all rpm’s. In the iPhones

Fuel filter?
 
Hall effect sensor?

To me the rain is the dead givaway for an '02 (early) 1150. It probably has the original style Hall Sensor with the wiring bundle that fails. I recommend you get it rewired. GS Addict to the white courtesy phone.
 
To me the rain is the dead givaway for an '02 (early) 1150. It probably has the original style Hall Sensor with the wiring bundle that fails. I recommend you get it rewired. GS Addict to the white courtesy phone.

That was my suspicion, but I always heard when the hall effect sensor went bad the bike just died. Mine just won’t go above 3500 RPM but after I shut it off and it sat for five minutes it ran fine, still sound like the sensor
 
That was my suspicion, but I always heard when the hall effect sensor went bad the bike just died. Mine just won’t go above 3500 RPM but after I shut it off and it sat for five minutes it ran fine, still sound like the sensor

What fails is the insulation on one two or more of the four wires enclosed in the outer sheath of the bundle. The inner insulation cracks, shrinks, and eventually turns to powder. In position, undisturbed, and dry even the bare wires can function. But flex the bundle or introduce moisture and then there is a problem. Sparks jump from one wire to another. This arcing can be random, and certainly is not the same from one bike failure to the next. So symptoms vary widely.

I had one that wouldn't start after stalling in the rain. On my lift with the key turned on I heard a faint buzzing. It was hard to identify the source. I decided to test spark and the easy way is to attach my inductive timing light and shine it into the palm of my hand - which beats jumper wires and such. As soon as I hooked it up and turned the key on it started flashing erratically even though the engine was not turning over. I promptly turned the key off and removed one of the injectors. As soon as I turned the key on the injector started spurting erratically. What was happening was current was arcing from one wire to another, simulating a signal from one of the sensors. This told the ECU it was time to spark and/or squirt. With extra fuel now in the cylinders I didn't dare to try to crank the engine with spark plugs installed. A lockup was possible. And there was by now fuel in the oil.

The whole point is that symptoms of HES failure vary a lot, other than to say the engine runs like crap or doesn't run at all.
 
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These days GSAddict has rebuilt Hall Sensor plates ready to go on an exchange basis. Last September he shipped one to a guy in California from Paterson WA while I took in the great view of the Columbia River below. We were on our way south for the Quincy rally and he had spares on board for his GS and my RT.

When I informed him that I had my rewired spare in my glove box he said well then, I'm shipping this one right now! I bet that guy was surprised and happy.

Just PM him; he'll sort you out right quick.
 
Just curious as to why GS Addict would have spare Hall Sensors on your trip. I was under the impression that the re wired ones were meant to last indefinitely and the rider need to no longer worry about a wiring malfunction. Thought the same was true for the newer BMW versions. :dunno
 
Just curious as to why GS Addict would have spare Hall Sensors on your trip.

If you knew the man you would know that:

1. He is always prepared for any eventuality, and
2. He carries an extra so that he can be that guy. You know, the one who steps up when sh*t goes sideways. At a rally, there's always a chance someone will need an HES. It sure worked out for that member from California.
 
If you knew the man you would know that:

1. He is always prepared for any eventuality, and
2. He carries an extra so that he can be that guy. You know, the one who steps up when sh*t goes sideways. At a rally, there's always a chance someone will need an HES. It sure worked out for that member from California.

Some things are certain in life: The Sun rises in the east and sets in the west. Airhead alternator rotors will fail. Early Oilhead HES units will fail. For a few years I rode around with an Airhead alternator rotor while riding my R90/6 or R80G/S. I still carried it for years when I started riding my K75s. I loaned it out at least four times to folks who had a rotor failure, either stumbled upon while on a trip or at a rally. Every time, of course, it came back to me in the mail. I still have it and have loaned it out once here in the Texas Big Bend but no longer haul it around. Boy Scout stuff. "Be Prepared". :wave
 
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