• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

BMW says not to use S100 on their bikes?

I agree with Paul on this one. Soap and water work just fine. Save the money, you'll need it when your child, or grandchild, gets that NYU acceptance letter.

E.
 
Last edited:
It does not play well with AL which is why we don't use it on aircraft. FWIW.

Kind of interesting ... Simple Green and a product named GOSH are the only cleaners allowed inside the reactor containment buildings at Diablo Canyon Nuclear Power Plant. Plant chemists go nuts if you take anything else in. Something to do with chlorine I think.
 
s100

I agree with the advice to use any product with caution and follow instructions. I bought S100 cleaner and used it once for a fall clean up and wasn't to impressed. Put bottle back in box until spring and when I went back to the box found that the top of the box had damage from some sort of out gassing from the S100 so it must be somewhat caustic. I guess it works if you follow directions carefully but don't let it remain on your bike.
Bottom line soap and water seem safest and best.

Next question...what oil should I use:dunno
 
S100 (and Simple Green Extreme) do things that soap and water cannot. Especially in hard to get to places where spray and rinse are about the only option. Rinsing with copious quantities of water and drying thoroughly are all that are needed with either product (and even with standard Simple Green) to prevent issues. I use an Air Force Blaster for drying and have previously used compressed air as well. I like the AFB better because it filters and heats the air. Waiting on it to dry or boiling it out with engine heat does not count for drying it.
 
Just a note on using the S100, since I originally asked about it. Rather typically, too much time spent on a minor issue. I contacted the company, got an email back, with lots of warnings on what not to put it on. Everyone here kindly offered their opinion. I finally thought, "What the heck, I'll try the stuff for $15.00". And the results were:

For a bike that is really dirty, I couldn't see that it did much of anything. It didn't phase the grime in the ribs of the wheels. Dirt on rubber hoses was the same after the rinse. It seemed to leave a coating on the front of the engine that I will need to scrub off. You are supposed to put it on, then quickly hose it off, and use plenty of water. I don't see how that could work, and it doesn't seem to.

I 'd say if the bike is already so clean that you don't need to wash it, (most Harley's would seem a good candidate) it would do a good job. Otherwise, as Paul Glaves mentioned, just soap and water, and you would get a better job with less risk, and water use. Save the $15.00.
 
A long time ago, Road and Track magazine published an article on how to wash your vehicle.

The gist was not with any sort of rubbing action, but rather with a brush. Might as well use sandpaper if you plan to rub your dirty paint.

It's always amusing to me to see vehicles covered with soap suds. Instead, wax your paint and the dirt won't adhere strongly and will brush right off with your water and brush. Soap suds everywhere is obviously a precursor to rubbing and, again, that's bad. Can you say swirl marks?

Exceptions of course are oil on drivetrain parts, but they aren't painted (essentially). You clearly need a degreaser. And I supposed places on paint where you might require bug and tar remover (for tar).

s-l640.jpg
 
For what its worth I've used S100 on 3 different BMW's that I have owned including a R1200GSA triple black without any adverse effect to the paint. I follow the instructions and spray off with a garden hose nozzle when done. Maybe the paints that BMW uses on their late models are better?
 
A long time ago, Road and Track magazine published an article on how to wash your vehicle.

The gist was not with any sort of rubbing action, but rather with a brush. Might as well use sandpaper if you plan to rub your dirty paint.

It's always amusing to me to see vehicles covered with soap suds. Instead, wax your paint and the dirt won't adhere strongly and will brush right off with your water and brush. Soap suds everywhere is obviously a precursor to rubbing and, again, that's bad. Can you say swirl marks?



View attachment 67662

interesting theory, but..not correct as far as i can tell.

i never use a brush. for most of my cars it is just water, soap and soft sponge. after 21yrs my dark purple M3 has a perfect finish. no swirls or scratches.
for my 43yo BMW 2002, it gets rubbed with a towel and spray on drywash. it is bright red. no swirls or scratches.

just an alternate thought.

of course, the q-tip crazies have entire forums full of debate on the "correct" way to wash a vehicle. religious wars...kinda like the "best oil" threads!
 
Simple Green

My experience with S100, on my ‘16RS, was that the driveshaft accordion boots took on a dry chalky appearance after applying and quickly rinsing. Wasn’t impressed. The soap and water solution works best for me. Been using Simple Green AUTOMOTIVE formula on my ‘92 Ducati since new (only on the engine and caliper areas}. It always cleans well with no “side effects”. I buy it by the gallon from Home Depot’s website
 
My experience with S100, on my ‘16RS, was that the driveshaft accordion boots took on a dry chalky appearance after applying and quickly rinsing. Wasn’t impressed. The soap and water solution works best for me. Been using Simple Green AUTOMOTIVE formula on my ‘92 Ducati since new (only on the engine and caliper areas}. It always cleans well with no “side effects”. I buy it by the gallon from Home Depot’s website

You've got to use an ridiculous amount of water to get that stuff off a bike.

I got a free can if anyone wants it.
 
Been using Simple Green AUTOMOTIVE formula

personally... I've just used regular old original Simple Green on my /5 for years; fork gaiters, drive shaft boot, etc. show no adverse effects at all.
 
s100

I have to say I used S100 for years on my Electra Glides. That was the only stuff that didn't leave water marks on the chrome. I would wash my whole bike with S100 diluted with water and lightly use microfiber cloth. Now I have an RT with no chrome so I don't even worry about it. If It ain't dripping oil and can't write your name on the dirt, it is good enough!
 
I have to say I used S100 for years on my Electra Glides. That was the only stuff that didn't leave water marks on the chrome. I would wash my whole bike with S100 diluted with water and lightly use microfiber cloth. Now I have an RT with no chrome so I don't even worry about it. If It ain't dripping oil and can't write your name on the dirt, it is good enough!

Happy to read that your wife survived aplastic anemia! As far as S100 goes, it’s not bad mixed with tonic water... and I use it too to wash my 2016 RT with good results! :)
 
Back
Top