Cross Canada Ride – Destination Salty Fog

Shortly after I arrived and found a spot to park I doffed my riding jacket and was greeted by Bob as he appeared over the ridge above the house saying “you must be Ken” with a wide smile and then by other riders who have arrived prior to myself. Bob and Mary immediately welcomed me, showed me the location of the famous soup cooking in the kitchen that, and described the sleeping options which included a nice warm bed in the Mary’s studio on the second level of the ‘barn’ at the top of the hill next to the house. I couldn’t ask for anything better. I claimed one of the beds with my bags and made a bee line to the soup!

I will be posting a few pictures (mostly scenic) of my time the SFRR that did not make it into Bobs ride report but will not repeat the tale of the journey as it has already most ably been done: http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?82849-Salty-Fog-Riders-Rally-2015-A-Final-Ride-Report

That afternoon and evening was spent eating, consuming local beer, a few cigars and sharing many a tale (some of which may have been true). No doubt everyone gelled as a group very quickly.

Day 12

Wow what a difference a day makes. Started out calm and peaceful with a beautiful sunrise.





Then the wind kicked up. Many of the group spent time fixing Lin and Kathie’s broken tent trailer and lashing the bikes down so they wouldn't blow over. Next up I joined Quinn and Mo for a walk along the beach to see the waves. Got to see a paper boat race on the river which included some judges that must have retired from the Olympic skating events as the ‘winner’ may have been disputed if it were not such a harmonious community. We also met 97 year-old John D. who runs the only store In Larry's River – what a treat to witness someone so happy to be doing what he loves at that age.

One correction on John: he's 83 years old. He still maintains his little store like he has for over 50 years and just might still be there when he's 97! "If John doesn't have it; you don't need it", some say. A very interesting person to talk with. This is a picture from that group visit we had with him



We are enjoying your report very much..... - Bob and Mary

On the road again for a short 300 Km over the causeway and a small ferry to Cape Breton today. Fog, mist and light rain greeted us in historic Louisbourg NS but sprits were not at all dampened. Arrived early enough to set up camp, clean up and tie into some very tasty Lobster Kettle food and still have time to enjoy local musicians leading us through the intricacies of Jigs.

Day 14

Lin, Kathie and I split off from the group this morning to experience some Cape Breton history visiting the Louisbourg Fortress which is the largest historical reconstruction in North America. The rest of the group took in the Miners Museum. After a full day we buzzed up the road a ways to Kellys Mountain KOA to position at the head of the Cabot Trail for tomorrow's ride.

Day 15

Morning dew on the bikes as we wake to a nice sunrise - it’s Meat Cove day!



Wonderful breakfast stop enjoyed by all before getting serious with the Cabot Trail. What a great ride with a ferry, plenty of twists, turns, ups and downs until we turned off the pavement for the short stint to Meat Cove for the 'Edge of the Earth Gathering’ of the Salty Fog Riders.

Coincidentally it was my Birthday for which the group celebrated with song and a cake!

Goodbye to Cape Breton - Day 16

A little light rain overnight and a gloomy weather forecast caused a couple riders to leave early for home before the sun was up. The rest of the group left Meat Cove carefully picking our way down, up and down again on he dirt the road which had a few muddy in sections from the light rain overnight. After a great breakfast in Pleasant Bay we headed down the west side of Cape Breton Island.



Rain threatened early but stayed as a mist until mid-morning allowing a few pictures along route and for a nice sun-filled stop at the Glenora Distillery and single malt.



It was with deeply mixed emotions that I said goodbye to Bob and Mary at the causeway to mainland Nova Scotia and turned west into darkening skies.

There is something missing in that great shot of the road winding its way along the coast. Got it!

Onward to Moncton New Brunswick

I decided on taking a more 'rural' path to Moncton by putting the TomTom App in ‘winding roads mode’. It was doing that admirably – what fun! But I had lost track of time and the sky ahead became extremely black. I decided to route back to the Trans Canada whereupon the sky opened up and sent an epic amount of water onto my path. I guess the weather channel was right this time!

As I approached Moncton on the Trans Canada the road became supremely rough and full of large wheel-eating potholes. It was also raining so hard visibility was at a minimum, especially if anywhere near a transport truck, of which there were plenty. At one point I hit a submerged pothole hard – I mean VERY HARD – and both my Low Beam headlights went out. The sky was almost as dark as night so I was fortunate the High Beam was still working which I immediately switched on.

I rode last 20 Km into Moncton in the unrelenting storm without issue and holed up at the last camping cabin site available at the Camper's City Seasonal Resort since the tent site I had booked was under six inches of water. The evening was spent attempting to dry out gear and planning an alternate route into Quebec skirting the heavy rain predicted for the next day.

Back Into Quebec - Day 17

The next morning I ensured I got an early start so as to have time at my destination to fix my headlight issues later in the afternoon. It was a bit chilly (9C) with a mix of light drizzle, mist and fog for several hours until I left New Brunswick causing me to miss seeing the Worlds Biggest Axe in Nackawic and Canada’s longest covered bridge over the Saint John River from Hartland to Somerville. Tragedy, I know. The skies cleared with temperatures getting up to 15C by the time I was about 100 Km from Rimouski Quebec.



Prior to going to my planned campsite I had to warm up a bit so stopped at a Timmies where I managed to pull together enough French words to order coffee and a bite to eat. Feeling refreshed I made my way to Camping Motel De L'Anse at the south end of town. I was taken aback by how extremely nice the people at the campsite were. Since they saw I was on a bike and needed repairs (the couple were also bikers) they offered to swap my tent site to a cabin with full facilities for a minimum charge. The cabin even had a small concrete area in front to park and work on my bike.





In the end, there were no water issues, no loose connectors, no burned wires, just two blown H7 bulbs. My GS911 recorded a short on the Right Hand Low Beam then an open on the Left Hand Low Beam and finally an open on the Right Hand Low Beam. I simply replaced both bulbs from spares I was carrying and buttoned things up.

Day 18 - West to the Nation's Capital

The ride from Rimouski to Ottawa was completed entirely in the rain - logging 717 soggy Km. Sadly unable to take any pictures along the route due the monsoon conditions and I eventually deviated off QC Highway 132 to Highway 20 to make better time in the rain since scenery wasn’t an option. I dearly wanted a good shot of a church in the small village of Trois Pistoles along the way. There is a very good local beer from the area (label picture per Unibroue brewing company).



I happily retreated for the evening in a nice dry motel room in Ottawa ON. Only a couple pictures at the end of the day with the RT ridden hard and put away wet.

Day 19 Onward To Sault Ste. Marie

I headed west in the early morning from Ottawa at 7C in a light mist with threatening clouds but could see them thinning out on the horizon - and - in an hours time I saw a bright yellow orb in the sky! Sun at last! Soon it was clear skies although it stayed cool until Sudbury where it suddenly warmed to 20C. I decided to divert into downtown Sudbury to see the ginormous 40 foot diameter Nickel on the hill celebrating the area's long tradition of mining that element. I had no idea where it was but when a guy on a Harley pulled up beside me at a light I asked him for directions and he signaled ‘follow me’ and proceeded to lead me directly there - nice guy. The good weather lasted all the way through to Bruce Mines and on to Sault Ste. Marie.

Day 20 - Thunder Bay

The ride today was graced with sunny skies and massive amounts of road construction. That conspired with the usual 90kph speed limit elsewhere to make it seem more work than normal. Missed out on getting a picture of the giant Canada Goose in Wawa but trust me I did see it taking flight at the entrance to town. Motel in Thunder Bay ON.

Day 21 - Winnipeg

Early start again, strangely moving west, going over the same road as the eastward ride looks altogether different. Next stop, an evening with my son again in Winnipeg.

Day 22 - Calgary

The last morning of the ride I definitely put the hammer down to make good use of the 110 Kph speed limit on the 1322 Km ride to Calgary on the Trans Canada Highway. The first four hours were in rain but then sun broke out and stuck with me the rest of the day. I was definitely glad to be across the prairies and home.


EPILOGUE

Sometimes one leaves on a trip thinking of all the places to be seen and activities to be entertained by; returning having done that, but mostly remembering the people met along the way. This is one of those times. Bob, Mary, Ryan, Quinn, Mo, Harry, Nick, Michael, Kathie and Lin – thank you all for such a memorable time.


Statistics

Duration: 22 days (August 27 – September 17)
Riding Days: 19
Distance: 11,942 Km, 7,420 Miles
Daily Riding Average: 629 Km, 391 miles
Fuel Stops: 42 (Include end home)
Fuel Used: 575 Litres (152 US gal, 126 Imperial gal)
Economy: 4.8 L/100Km (49 mpg US, 59 mpg Imperial)
Motorcycle: 2008 BMW R1200RT
Mapping: Paper Maps & iPhone 5s running TomTom GPS App
Satellite GPS Messenger: SPOT Personal Tracker
Cameras: iPhone 5s & Canon PowerShot SD850 IS ELPH

I see you were still working on this at midnight!

That must have been tough, leaving the group at the Causeway. Did you schlep that barbecue the whole way, or was it Bob and Mary's?

Your gas mileage is almost identical to my ST's. I continue to be impressed with how efficient these bikes are.

Well done Ken!

And congratulations on your rank as a coveted Salty Fog alum. Good planning on your part having two bulbs & handling the tire puncture efficiently.
Your SFR "red lettered sign"... reminded me how neat it was to see those on arrival (multiple routes inbound), some signs pretty far from Larry's River.
I've considered that quite possibly... Bob uses them to get home himself!
Glad you've experienced the maritime adventure and Thank You for the excellent trip report.

"three bowl" john