Run away engine on 2012 R1200RT

History of events leading up to the run away engine.

1) Left low beam is burnt out so I am going to replace both bulbs. Left side done in less than 5 minutes.
2) Right side no matter how I twisted or positioned my arm I could not get the bulb in place so removed the small front side panel. Could see better but still could not get my hand in there.
3) Looked at the cruise control box and thought that by moving it off of its mounting bracket I could possible get my hand up in there. I disconnected the electrical connector but did NOT remove the throttle cable there was enough slack that it easily allowed the control box to slide out of the way. Still couldn't get the bulb in place.
4) Wife came home and with er smaller hands she was able to get the bulb in place and got the spring clips hooked.
5) Reinstalled the cruise control box and started the bike to confirm the lights work. Now the bike wants to run at 7,000 + RPM.

If I roll back on the throttle grip it will idle down & with the engine off the throttle seems to snap home.

I have removed the right side panel and observed the right side throttle body butter fly. With engine off that cable has free play in it.

The throttle also has some freeplay which would indicate slack in the cables. I.e feels normal.

I currently have the battery disconnected thinking possibly by disconnecting the cruise it triggered some fault.


Any other ideas?

TIA

you really need to get back to the throttle control box and FIX what is messed up......you do NOT want a runaway throttle while riding obviously....

as for the bulbs....i have resorted to removing the headlght assy to change bulbs....it now takes me about 30 min to R&R the bulbs and no blood is spilled or neighbors offended....

Pulled the gas tank and removed the cover off of the throttle cable pully box. All of the cables are in place and have some slck in them. While holding the return spring in place you can roll on the throttle and roll it back and the cables all move freely. The cable going to the cruise control box has lots of slack while doing this.

Can't run the bike with the tank off so at a loss at this time.

Could the cruise control box be damaged by just unplugging the connector?

problem solved:

The cruise control cable is NOT one solid piece from the pulley cable box to the cruise control module. Neatly buried behind the electrical enclosure and under the glove box latch is a joint that got separated when I moved the cruise control module. This joint had a rubber sleeve that was pinched between the cable housing and the socket the cable housing wwas supposed to rest in. That is why the bike would idle after sitting for awhile and then rev up and stay reved up.

People learn from my mistake, it may save some gray hairs...

Good job.

@roy thanks!


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roy said:

problem solved:

The cruise control cable is NOT one solid piece from the pulley cable box to the cruise control module. Neatly buried behind the electrical enclosure and under the glove box latch is a joint that got separated when I moved the cruise control module. This joint had a rubber sleeve that was pinched between the cable housing and the socket the cable housing wwas supposed to rest in. That is why the bike would idle after sitting for awhile and then rev up and stay reved up.

People learn from my mistake, it may save some gray hairs...

Click to expand...

I realize this thread is three years old but it saved me a lot of grief today so I thought I should thank roy for having posted this solution.

In Feb 2017 I acquired a 2006 RT and I finally had occasion to remove the gas tank (bleeding brakes). Apparently I got careless putting it back on and must have moved the cruise control cable out of position causing a problem with the connection roy described. When I fired up the engine it immediately went to 6000 rpm. I knew I had done something simple and stupid but I looked for hours and had no luck finding it. After doing a search and finding this thread it took about 5 minutes to have it running correctly.