Gas tank tank removed, replaced, now fairing screws no longer line up.

I've had the plastic off my RT once before and everything went back together, or at least as I remember it it did. This time I had to remove the tank, then replace it. Now the 6 screws that are on the top of the tank are off by like 1/4" in places. I don't know how that is possible. The plastic side pieces clip onto the tank top piece, it seems to be in the correct spot and yet, the screw holes are way off. I have even loosened the screws around the gas cap ring. If I cross thread the screws into the molded-in sockets in the tank, well, that will be interesting. It's like the plastic shrunk while off the bike. I have to say, BMW could have worked out that part of the fairing a bit better. Tapered screws would also be a big help. Are they available? Anyone had this same situation and worked out a solution. If I keep fighting the plastic I can just imagine a nice scratch in the paint. This should be a very simple job, but of course, it is not. Thanks Berlin.

Ah, for my old airhead with the simple Luftmiester fairing out front......

I took a few pictures to illustrate the problem. Unfortunately, the MOA seems to have "improved" the web site. I love those bored tech guys. No pictures.

The gas tank rear mounting point is elongated. Leave it loose and move it until the left side panel fits up, then go for it. You may have to loosen the top section piece also. Been there done that and it sucks big time!!!
I couldnt believe it would do that

It may be the NE Ohio gravitational misalignment complex!

That piece of trim on top of the gas tank fit perfectly only one time...the day the bike was made! Many of us Rt owners know this. I have 'dremelled' my holes out to a nice oblong shape. JUST the holes on the tank cover...NOT the holes on the big side panel. The side panel will cover the larger holes, and no one will be the wiser.

PAS said:

The gas tank rear mounting point is elongated. Leave it loose and move it until the left side panel fits up, then go for it. You may have to loosen the top section piece also. Been there done that and it sucks big time!!!
I couldnt believe it would do that

It may be the NE Ohio gravitational misalignment complex!

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This is correct. That lower right bolt fits into a slotted tab on the frame. I'm sure the Germans did it in order to increase the tolerances for fitting the tupperware.

I would not however, remove or loosen anything related to the filler neck on the tank. The o-ring underneath will immediately pop out of its trough and, having expanded due to exposure to fuel vapors, will NOT go back in unless you set it out in the sun to dry for a day or two, then put it in a baggie in the freezer for a few hours. By that time you could have driven to your BMW dealer and bought a new one for about $7.

Just work with the fore/aft movement allowed by the slotted rear tank mount, and all will be fine.

Thanks to both PAS and Oldnslow. I will try loosening the large tank holding bolt. But, I realized after posting the question, that as Oldnslow states, it's really the tank cover piece that is the problem. It's nice to know that I am not the first person to have this situation. Thanks for the laugh about it only fitting one time: at the factory. So true. Not that it makes any difference at this point, but why didn't BMW design this troublesome piece with longer tabs and long elongated slots? You don't have to be a highly paid engineer to solve this problem. Sometimes I wonder where the common sense is at these companies.

Using the Dremel is a great idea, and although I hate to do it, it's probably the only real solution to getting the holes in that tank cover to line up. The holes are already slightly elongated, maybe by the screws themselves cutting the stretched plastic, or possibly by a previous owner with a Dremmel. Sadly, those two front holes are going to be getting pretty thin at the outer edges though. I still can't believe I have to grind parts of the bodywork to get them to fit back on. Incredible. I know I shouldn't say it, but....I had a Honda scooter with plenty of plastic body panels. They all came off, then they all went back on, with no problems. Fit like a glove.

The panels will fit without elongating the holes once you get the tank moved into the correct position. Take your time.

Seems like I read somewhere that the plastic tank changes shape over a period of time. I knew that after mine came off, there was NO WAY it was going on. That piece doesn't need to be removed to remove the tank by the way. And for sure, the rubber o ring under the filler cap will grow to be huge! DAMHIK!

I don't think tank position has anything to do with the center cover on the tank, as the tank is removable with the cover intact,but does matter on the side panels. DONT butcher up the side panels!

oldnslow said:

Seems like I read somewhere that the plastic tank changes shape over a period of time. I knew that after mine came off, there was NO WAY it was going on. That piece doesn't need to be removed to remove the tank by the way. And for sure, the rubber o ring under the filler cap will grow to be huge! DAMHIK!

I don't think tank position has anything to do with the center cover on the tank, as the tank is removable with the cover intact,but does matter on the side panels. DONT butcher up the side panels!

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Both PAS and Oldnslow know from whence they speak. Listen to them.

I'm on my second 1100RT, and am approaching 175,000 miles on them. I do all of my own labor, except for one clutch replacement. I've never had to Dremel those holes. Ever. But I know that once I get the tank lined up properly, you need to go mark the elongated slot (mounting tab) on the frame so that you can line the tank up at the exact same place every time you remove it. Works like a charm.

I really can't figure out what happened here. I do know that if I have to remove the side panels for any length of time in the future, I will put the plastic tank cover screws back in immediately to hold everything in position. I unwittingly loosened the screws on the gas cap ring to try sliding it around better. But after reading the replies, I re-tightened it. I hope it went back down okay. The tank was off the bike, the top cover left on, but sitting on the floor for about two weeks. Could that much plastic move that much in that period of time? I wouldn't have imagined it, but maybe that is the explanation. I'm thinking of trying to set the bike out in the hot sun for a while to see if that helps, before I start in on those cover screw holes with the Dremel. I would rather not weaken the holes even on the tank cover, which I agree is held in by the side panels. I will not open up the side cover holes. If I could get the tank cover holes to line up, I'm sure there is enough give in the side covers to get them lined up, although when I am done with it all I will mark the slotted hold for the future.
They are chrome plated screws, or I would try to find a way to turn a taper on the ends to help everything go together. Thanks everyone, for your help. I will keep you posted.

jconway607 said:

...
I unwittingly loosened the screws on the gas cap ring to try sliding it around better. But after reading the replies, I re-tightened it. I hope it went back down okay.
...

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The o-ring that seals the gas cap to the tank expands. Be sure that it was in its grove or you could have an unintended opening where the gasket didn't seat. When I took delivery of my bike years ago, it had that problem.
RB

jconway607 said:

Tapered screws would also be a big help. Are they available?

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BMW used them when they built your bike. I guess someone "upgraded" the bike at some point after that. Buy the screws from the R1150RT; they are available in black or bright stainless with T25 heads.

jconway607 said:

The tank was off the bike, the top cover left on, but sitting on the floor for about two weeks. Could that much plastic move that much in that period of time?

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Absolutely. It's pretty common.

The OEM black screws on my 03 can be polished to a bright finish.

when I say dremel them out, it won't take much...if you didnt know I did it to mine, you would not notice. And I only had to do the ones near the seat. The ones near the bars were fine. Also, plug the bolt holes in the tank with something before you Dremel it out. Just a little bit of crap in the holes will cause the screws to bind and not seat. Again, DAMHIK! When I install my side panels, I put the tank screws in first, but only start them, then work my way around to the others. I will push the front of the fairing up tight next to the oil cooler inlet and tighten the screw in the inlet and the one under the mirror first. Then the others as I go. It just seems to work better that way. There is more 'give' in the panels down by the foot pegs and such, so I do them last. YMMV!

I did finally get the panels back on the bike. I had to elongate the tank cover screw holes with a Dremel so that I could even see all of the opening for the hole in the tank. Then, using a drift, I could pry the side panels into position. I then used a long wooden wedge in the slot between the tank cover and the side cover to hold it in close position, then I could carefully get the screws into the six holes. I also made a special fixture on my lathe that allows me to put a point on the screws. I can't really tell you how many hours I have in getting those panels on. Suffice it to say, a ridiculous amount.

But it's good I have a method to put them on because oddly enough, they all have to come off again. When I took it out for a test ride, the auxiliary lights on the front wheel no longer work. This time I will probably have to take the dash off too.

Well, at least it was a beautiful day out today as I worked hour after hour on the old Beemer. And, I had the pleasant background sound of a constant stream of Harleys and other brands riding past the house enjoying the road. Can't ask for much more than that I suppose.

There is a similar conversation going on in another forum. Go over and have a read in the Oilheads section.
http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php