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R1200RT Tire pressure
- Thread starter anchorbend
- Start date
I commute daily, check my pressure each morning. I run just a tad over recommended solo pressure and that works for me. When they return my bike from service, the dealer always sets the pressure to two-up and the bike just floats all over the road. I weigh about 170 and ride with no bags, but always the top box with a bunch of junk.
pglaves
#13338
I'm going to comment on tire pressure. I'll leave the list of argumentative topics alone.
A number of riders seem to like pressures a little higher than BMW specifies. For older models the reason is clear. Unless you are getting repro tires, today's tires with softer sidewalls and different rubber need more pressure.
BMW brought a bit of it on themselves when they equipped the R1100RS with the very soft three-spoke wheels. Routine potholes and railroad crossings bent those wheels very easily. So in self defense and to avoid $900 wheels folks started running higher pressures. We have run 40-42 in Voni's R1100RS forever for just this reason.
Two years ago when we toured all summer I rode my R1150R. In anticipation of ordering new shocks, as soon as we got home I weighed all the luggage and camping gear as I took it off the bike. Grand total - 171 pounds. Last year I rode my F650 Dakar with a slimmed down 150 pound load. So I run pressures a bit higher than BMW suggests.
I do have a Smartire TPMS on my R1150R. I can easily monitor the pressure rise hot to cold, and also the tire internal air temperature. So doing results in running pressures a few psi higher than the book suggests.
And like others, I do vary my tire pressure depending on circumstances. In cold weather I run a couple of psi lower pressure than my "normal", for two reasons. The tire is unlikely to get too hot and I can monitor that. And, with cold pavement warm rubber is a big traction plus. In very hot weather and day long trips I run a couple of psi higher than my "normal". This helps the tire from overheating. I also may vary pressures depending on locale. If I am riding in the mountains and intend to do so with some spirit I will run a couple of psi lower than normal. But for drones across west Texas and Oklahoma in August I will probably bump the pressures a pound or two. There isn't a single number that is right for all occasions, loads, or riders. Sorry.
As a final comment, I also happen to own a 1997 Ford Explorer. Does anybody remember the Explorer / Bridgestone tire fiasco with low tire pressures, blowouts, rollovers, class action lawsuits, and flack that almost tubed the tire company. My door column stickers say 24 psi. I run 35 winter and 40 summer. Yes the ride is a little harsher, which is what Ford was trying to avoid, but I don't get hot tires, blowouts, rollovers, injury or death.
A number of riders seem to like pressures a little higher than BMW specifies. For older models the reason is clear. Unless you are getting repro tires, today's tires with softer sidewalls and different rubber need more pressure.
BMW brought a bit of it on themselves when they equipped the R1100RS with the very soft three-spoke wheels. Routine potholes and railroad crossings bent those wheels very easily. So in self defense and to avoid $900 wheels folks started running higher pressures. We have run 40-42 in Voni's R1100RS forever for just this reason.
Two years ago when we toured all summer I rode my R1150R. In anticipation of ordering new shocks, as soon as we got home I weighed all the luggage and camping gear as I took it off the bike. Grand total - 171 pounds. Last year I rode my F650 Dakar with a slimmed down 150 pound load. So I run pressures a bit higher than BMW suggests.
I do have a Smartire TPMS on my R1150R. I can easily monitor the pressure rise hot to cold, and also the tire internal air temperature. So doing results in running pressures a few psi higher than the book suggests.
And like others, I do vary my tire pressure depending on circumstances. In cold weather I run a couple of psi lower pressure than my "normal", for two reasons. The tire is unlikely to get too hot and I can monitor that. And, with cold pavement warm rubber is a big traction plus. In very hot weather and day long trips I run a couple of psi higher than my "normal". This helps the tire from overheating. I also may vary pressures depending on locale. If I am riding in the mountains and intend to do so with some spirit I will run a couple of psi lower than normal. But for drones across west Texas and Oklahoma in August I will probably bump the pressures a pound or two. There isn't a single number that is right for all occasions, loads, or riders. Sorry.
As a final comment, I also happen to own a 1997 Ford Explorer. Does anybody remember the Explorer / Bridgestone tire fiasco with low tire pressures, blowouts, rollovers, class action lawsuits, and flack that almost tubed the tire company. My door column stickers say 24 psi. I run 35 winter and 40 summer. Yes the ride is a little harsher, which is what Ford was trying to avoid, but I don't get hot tires, blowouts, rollovers, injury or death.
gfspencer
New member
Excellent point about tire pressure and temperature.
Atomicman52
New member
Hammam
New member
I like that approach.
deilenberger
A bozo on the bus
Along with Paul - I have a TPMS system. Mine also monitors tire temperature (at least the temperature of the air in the tire.)
Interesting how MUCH different the tire temperature can be, and how much it effects the tire pressure.
I try to keep my pressure so when my tires reach 68-70F, they're at the factory recommended pressure (32F, 36R). Doing so means in the winter they indicate quite a bit less when I leave the garage (usually 30F, 33R at around 45F), and they'll indicate higher when I return to the garage once they really warm up (ie - more then 75F tire temps - usually if I'm riding for a while at speed, even in 45F temps, I can see 80F or more in the tires by the time I get home.)
And as Paul does - I do make some adjustment based on load (when loaded for a rally trip, since I don't camp - my loaded weight increases about 50lbs.. just in clothing and my Netbook), so I'll up the pressure a few PSI (again, calculated for a 70F tire.) I don't feel the need to run excessively high pressures since (1) the R1200R rims aren't all that soft, BMW figured out that wasn't a good idea (2) the bike becomes much less comfortable to ride with higher pressure in the tires (3) I want warmed up tires, since I'm usually in temperate weather on back-roads, I'm looking for max stick with minimum pressure increase (4) I don't care about wear - at all really. I plan on a new set of rubber every year, that's about 12k miles, and the Pilot Roads do that for me without any problem at all.
YMWV - DO take into account the tire temperature when you're checking your pressure. A tire filled to 42PSI at 40F could easily exceed the maximum allowed tire pressure when fully warmed up.
BTW - "maximum" means exactly that. It doesn't mean this is something to shoot for - it means that's ALL the manufacturer will promise you the tire will hold up to.
Interesting how MUCH different the tire temperature can be, and how much it effects the tire pressure.
I try to keep my pressure so when my tires reach 68-70F, they're at the factory recommended pressure (32F, 36R). Doing so means in the winter they indicate quite a bit less when I leave the garage (usually 30F, 33R at around 45F), and they'll indicate higher when I return to the garage once they really warm up (ie - more then 75F tire temps - usually if I'm riding for a while at speed, even in 45F temps, I can see 80F or more in the tires by the time I get home.)
And as Paul does - I do make some adjustment based on load (when loaded for a rally trip, since I don't camp - my loaded weight increases about 50lbs.. just in clothing and my Netbook), so I'll up the pressure a few PSI (again, calculated for a 70F tire.) I don't feel the need to run excessively high pressures since (1) the R1200R rims aren't all that soft, BMW figured out that wasn't a good idea (2) the bike becomes much less comfortable to ride with higher pressure in the tires (3) I want warmed up tires, since I'm usually in temperate weather on back-roads, I'm looking for max stick with minimum pressure increase (4) I don't care about wear - at all really. I plan on a new set of rubber every year, that's about 12k miles, and the Pilot Roads do that for me without any problem at all.
YMWV - DO take into account the tire temperature when you're checking your pressure. A tire filled to 42PSI at 40F could easily exceed the maximum allowed tire pressure when fully warmed up.
BTW - "maximum" means exactly that. It doesn't mean this is something to shoot for - it means that's ALL the manufacturer will promise you the tire will hold up to.
Tire pressures as in the owners manual are set by the vehicle manufacture for the type and size tire installed on the vehicle when it left the showroom. Many manufacture list high and low pressures depending on vehicle loading, all recommend the upper pressure for high speed driving or riding
Heat is the number one killer of tires, a low pressure condition will cause severe heat build up at high speeds, do you ride at high speeds, I really don't think 34 vs 36 psi is a game changer 22 vs 36 is though we tend to think low pressure is something one to two pounds off many riders and drivers are out their every day with severly low pressure in their tires, usually their excuse is they look ok. They are generally the ones with blown tires
I can honestly say I have never had a tire failure, car, motorcycle ,bicycle or airplane think is because i'am anal about tire pressures
My 1200gs calls for 32-36 front 38-42 rear I tend to run on the high side
To make things easier on me I have taken a magic marker and written the pressure ranges on the wheel next to valve stim
Heat is the number one killer of tires, a low pressure condition will cause severe heat build up at high speeds, do you ride at high speeds, I really don't think 34 vs 36 psi is a game changer 22 vs 36 is though we tend to think low pressure is something one to two pounds off many riders and drivers are out their every day with severly low pressure in their tires, usually their excuse is they look ok. They are generally the ones with blown tires
I can honestly say I have never had a tire failure, car, motorcycle ,bicycle or airplane think is because i'am anal about tire pressures
My 1200gs calls for 32-36 front 38-42 rear I tend to run on the high side
To make things easier on me I have taken a magic marker and written the pressure ranges on the wheel next to valve stim
Atomicman52
New member
Just Wrong!oh no not again! Another freakin tire thread
bmw inc. Does not design, build, or sell tires (though their dealers do sell them). "maybe" they give some input to the tire manufacturers (unknown).
The riders' manual was written before the bike was produced (so it certainly hasn't kept up with tire technology), and it was written with only a very few "recommended" tires referenced.
I would much rather put my trust in the company that designs not only the tread, but the compound itself, and may even provide recommendations on what bike the tire is - or is not - good for, than in the limited general pamphlet written by any vehicle manufacturer and its lawyers.
Look on the sidewalls, and you will see part of the labeling stating the "maximum cold pressure". (note that pressure should be checked before you heat the tire up by riding on it.)
my personal method is to start at about 10 to 15 per cent lower than the "cold maximum" rating, and slightly adjust from that point for what "feels" like a balance of wear characteristics and handling.
Air pressure 2013 R 1200 rt
Been running 40 front 42 rear on 3 different RT’s appx 100,000 miles total over the years.
If I reduce the tire pressure in the front will I, increase or decrease tire life.
I, am 6’2” weight around 160 without clothes.
80% of my miles are Slab . I, get around 9K out of the back tire and 13K on front
Been running 40 front 42 rear on 3 different RT’s appx 100,000 miles total over the years.
If I reduce the tire pressure in the front will I, increase or decrease tire life.
I, am 6’2” weight around 160 without clothes.
80% of my miles are Slab . I, get around 9K out of the back tire and 13K on front
pglaves
#13338
That is hard to say. Reduced pressure will somewhat widen the contact patch. But it will also increase squirm and increase the tire operating temperature. Increased pressure will narrow the contact patch and reduce operating temperature, but may increase wear down the middle. It also matters how much straight-up riding and how much leaned-over riding the tire encounters.
If deviating from optimum pressure both an increase or decrease are likely to increase wear and reduce tread life. I suspect that 40 p.s.i. in the front is slightly above the recommended (and presumably optimal) pressure. But that is only a guess. It depends a lot on ambient temperature, loaded weight, etc. It also depends on whether or not those pressures you cite are at 20C (68F) or at some other temperature.
pglaves
#13338
I have never altered air pressure because I am at a higher altitude but I do generally drop pressures a couple of pounds in the winter so the tire will run slightly warmer.
etiennelau
Member
I have been doing the 10%/20% FT/RT pressure. Seems to be working fine for the last several hundred miles. I previously ran FT/RT at at the 36/42 as recommended by BMW. What I got running at those pressures are 9000miles on PR3, I am close to the end of tread on them. Feathering on both Front and Rear, but I suspect that was due to riding with leaking Front and Rear struts....For the last 500 miles I have been running with new ESA II Wilbers from Ted Porter, night and day compared to the old ESA II stock from BMW.
Do I notice anything different running FT/RT 31/35 PSI instead of 36/42PSI? Probably a nice and softer ride. No fear taking fast right hand sweepers at 70mph with 41 degree lean angle.....But then I have nothing to compare as I never took the same sweeper at 36/42 PSI
Note also I am 163lbs without gear. I ride both without and without top and side cases. But generally nothing heavier than 10-20lbs of stuff. So not heavily loaded to even warrant 36/42 PSI.
Do I notice anything different running FT/RT 31/35 PSI instead of 36/42PSI? Probably a nice and softer ride. No fear taking fast right hand sweepers at 70mph with 41 degree lean angle.....But then I have nothing to compare as I never took the same sweeper at 36/42 PSI
Note also I am 163lbs without gear. I ride both without and without top and side cases. But generally nothing heavier than 10-20lbs of stuff. So not heavily loaded to even warrant 36/42 PSI.
