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Front Forks

mybmw

New member
I have a 1984 R80RT and to change fork oil the Clymer manual says that for a 1984 remove the lower drain bolt and open the top fill bolt.

For earlier models Clymer says I would have to grind two flats on a socket, put the socket on a nut at the bottom, hold the socket with an open end wrench, and loosen/remove an allen bolt at the bottom for the oil to drain.

My forks are like the earlier models as described by Clymer. Does Clymer have it backwards or are my forks off of an older bike?

thanks.
 
I believe the Type I forks were the kind with the ATE brakes (pre '80) while the Type II/III forks were with the Brembo brakes ('81-84). Which type of brakes do you have? Here's some pages on fork applications:

http://www.bmwscotter.org/topics/fork-tubes/fork-tubes.htm
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze4dp63/bmwmotorcycleparts/forks1.html

RE: the nut at the bottom...I never did grind flats on a socket. I just ended up grabbing my socket with some vise grips so I could push the allen wrench up the middle. Shouldn't really be that tight...
 
I have a 1984 R80RT and to change fork oil the Clymer manual says that for a 1984 remove the lower drain bolt and open the top fill bolt.

For earlier models Clymer says I would have to grind two flats on a socket, put the socket on a nut at the bottom, hold the socket with an open end wrench, and loosen/remove an allen bolt at the bottom for the oil to drain.

My forks are like the earlier models as described by Clymer. Does Clymer have it backwards or are my forks off of an older bike?

thanks.

The early style fork sliders were for ATE swing calipers. The axle is offset from center. A rubber cap fits in the bottom. Pull that out and find a 13mm nut on a stud that has a small hex for an allen wrench.

81 on have Brembo calipers, very different. Axle is centered. The parts blow ups on MAX or RealOEM distinctly show the difference.

Swapping of whole forks from early to late and vice versa is a distinct possibility. Even K bike forks will be found on some Airheads.
 
For earlier models Clymer says I would have to grind two flats on a socket, put the socket on a nut at the bottom, hold the socket with an open end wrench, and loosen/remove an allen bolt at the bottom for the oil to drain.


thanks.

I made a tool just for this. I took a piece of 1/8 x 1/2 bar stock and welded a handle onto the back (flat) side of a 13mm socket. Then I drilled a hole in the bar stock aligned with the center of the socket. The Allen wrench then goes up through the hole to hold the damper rod while I turn the nut.
 
I made a tool just for this. I took a piece of 1/8 x 1/2 bar stock and welded a handle onto the back (flat) side of a 13mm socket. Then I drilled a hole in the bar stock aligned with the center of the socket. The Allen wrench then goes up through the hole to hold the damper rod while I turn the nut.

Harbor Freight has a nice go-thru socket set which is most useful for this job. And it is made in Taiwan, so it is strong and properly heat treated, quite unlike much of the hazardous communist Chinese made junk.
 
I made a tool like that yesterday out of a 13mm combo wrench where the open end was wallowed out. The picture shows the old tool and the new one side by side.
 

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I have a Craftsman 13/15mm offset box wrench that works, no grinding or welding required:

BMW123.jpg
 
Mine is just a socket with flats ground in it. Fits normal open-end wrench.
 

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Got a little chainsaw? The wrench that comes with it will work. It's got a socket on one end thats attached to a screwdriver. I suppose you could probably buy one for cheap somewhere that they sell chainsaws. Mine looks like this...between 3 and 5 dollars around here...

images
 
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