Disassembly R65LS Questions

Greetings,

I only have the Haynes book so far and don't see what's holding the gas tank from coming off - same for the seat. Someone drilled a hole to open the seat - obviously did not have the key - where is good resource for new locks & keys for forks, ignition, tank and seat?

Pulling tranny - it will need an o'haul. I read removing the swingarm is easiest way to remove it. Isn't there a special tool or socket I need to purchase to get into the swing arm hole to access the socket?

Is dual plugging a good suggestion for this bike?


Thanks much!

Ken in MN

1981 right? I had to go back to be sure...

Gas tank - I suspect it's like my /7...there should be a couple of plastic nuts at the rear of the tank inside the tunnel. Seat has to come off to see them. Of course, remove the fuel lines below the petcock.

Keys - I'd check with local locksmiths, the older the better. You might try a place like Bob's BMW for blanks...even check with a dealer.

Swingarm - it should take a 27mm socket that's been trimmed on the outside to help clear the ID of the tube. The nuts inside are pretty big, so thinning the thickness of the socket helps. Sometimes a 1-1/16" will work. You might want to buy one and see how they fit...you might get lucky and not need to thin the walls.

Dual plugging - for what purpose? It's not going to add power but might make it start easier on cold days and run on poorer or lower grade gasoline. Dual plugging adds complexity and requires the heads to come off...plus special coils...not sure how that works with the '81 electronic ignition...you might have to change/add a booster to handle the extra coils.

Since the bike is new to you, wait on the dual plugging until you see how she performs. You might just like what you have.

Ken,

It's a little different than the /7 style tank. There is a U-shaped loop under the rear of the tank, with rubber around it, It wraps around the back end of the upper frame tube. It pivots at the top, so just grab the rubber tab at the bottom and pull it rearward, off the end of the frame tube, and lift the rear of the tank up. You may have to reach under and disconnect the vent tube from the underside of the tank, but you should be able to lift it rearward and upward and it will come off.

If you can get the rear seat open, take it off first. It will swing up, and is retained by to E-clips on the hinges just like the big airheads. Pull the off, and slide it forward and off the hingepins. It is kind of tight, so be patient and wiggle it around to get it off, but don't force anything.

I have a Craftsman thinwall 12 point 27mm socket that fits the swing arm nuts, it didn't need modification.
The pivot pins then are removed with an Allen wrench.

You can buy new lock hardware, but I would try used first:
http://www.re-psycle.com/
or PartsHaus@aol.com

Thanks much!

I have a 1984 r65. On pulling tranny, the Clymer, at least, says you have to unass engine and mufflers.That is not so. You pull swingarm, airbox, left carb, battery carrier, and angle it out of there. Saves you a ton of work, and precarious balancing of a dismounted engine.

CycleWorks sells a special wrench for the 4 driveshat bolts. this one can be attached to a torque wrench, and includes formula for correcting your torque wrench settings with this tool. These bolts are highly critical, and not reusable. I highly recommend you get this tool, at least for the reassembly.

The dual plugging is really for the bigger bore bikes - due to extra long flame path. My R65 burns any sort of swill you feed it with no complaints - the dual plugging is wasted on this machine, in my estimation.

Unless the LS is different from my plain R65, the single petcock is not so good. I wound up with pinhole leaks on the right side, because the water (thanks ethanol!) stays with stale fuel on the right side. . Give that tank a good flush out at least.