I seems a bit of oil is leaking out of my '99 R1100RT, apparently through the filler plug. The plug looks to be in good condition, the rubber ring in tact, etc. I have not had this problem until recently. It started shortly after my last oil change where I may have slightly over filled (put in what it said to put in, but the view glass was full beyond the top). Any suggestions? Could slight over filling be a possible cause of this problem?
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oil fill plug leak
- Thread starter mchlvrsn
- Start date
pglaves
#13338
Insert a broad bladed flat screwdriver and carefully pry the black plastic ring out - AFTER cleaning around it as best you can. I use spray carb cleaner. This is so the sand and other stuff trapped atop the O ring doesn't fall into the valve cover.
Clean and dry the recess in the casting. Clean and dry the black plastic ring. Install new O ring. Align the little tab on the ring to the little detent in the casting and firmly press the ring back into place in the valve cover.
Then - next time you do a major service (12K intervals) with the valve cover off to adjust the valves, replace the O rings - inner and outer.
A
ArthurKnowles
Guest
As an FYI, my filler cap started doing the same thing. I don't know if it will help, or solve the problem, but I took the O ring off the cap and flipped it. It now seals tighter. So, it may have solved my leak problem. If not, I'll be buying new O rings to repalce them with.
awagnon
Member
Mine didn't leak, but on the way to the MOA rally in Wisconsin last year I couldn't get the oil filler cap off my RT. The lower part or the filler cap seat would just turn in the valve cover because the o-ring had shrunk or something and the locking tab quit engaging the casting of the valve cover. Had to hold the base with a screw driver. It's easy to replace the lower o-ring when the valve cover is off, although the new o-ring can be pretty tight on installation.
MCMXCIVRS
More toys than space
I've posted this tip before, but will repeat it again.
The plastic cap and the inner ring have a slight raised ridge where the parting lines of the mould were. If you sand or scrape that ridge smooth in the o-ring groove, they will be far less likely to ever leak again. The ridge creates a small nick in the o-ring over time which creates a channel for the oil to weep past. The cam covers present the same problem.
I smoothed mine the first and only time I replaced the o-rings and they have never leaked again in 10 years and over 120,000 Kms.
The plastic cap and the inner ring have a slight raised ridge where the parting lines of the mould were. If you sand or scrape that ridge smooth in the o-ring groove, they will be far less likely to ever leak again. The ridge creates a small nick in the o-ring over time which creates a channel for the oil to weep past. The cam covers present the same problem.
I smoothed mine the first and only time I replaced the o-rings and they have never leaked again in 10 years and over 120,000 Kms.
Mines leaking like mad too. I just received new O-rings and a new O-ring seat from Max's BMW (loved their service) but I haven't put them in yet.
Side note. I had someone today tell me that a mechanic told them that the one down side to use of full synthetic oil is that it will leak easier (smaller req'd opening?) than dino oil. Anyone else heard this?
RavenGS
04 GS
Side note. I had someone today tell me that a mechanic told them that the one down side to use of full synthetic oil is that it will leak easier (smaller req'd opening?) than dino oil. Anyone else heard this?
RavenGS
04 GS
A
ArthurKnowles
Guest
Yes. My understanding of the situation is that the synthetic molecules are all one size. Kind of like homoginized dairy products. Unlike dino oil which vary in size (and are usually larger to begin with).
It should not be a problem though if your motorcycle is in good mechanical shape. Meaning no high clearances for rings, valve seats, seals, etc.
Paint can opener
I use one of those hardware-store-freebie paint can openers to pry out the O ring that's inside the head cover. Grit likes to accumulate in this area, especially after long trips, so it's worth checking this O ring regularly.
I have an alloy filler-plug that was on the bike when I bought it. Even after putting in a new O ring, it still leaks a little on long hard days, but not enough to cause concern. Thanks for the tip on smoothing out the ridge.
I use one of those hardware-store-freebie paint can openers to pry out the O ring that's inside the head cover. Grit likes to accumulate in this area, especially after long trips, so it's worth checking this O ring regularly.
I have an alloy filler-plug that was on the bike when I bought it. Even after putting in a new O ring, it still leaks a little on long hard days, but not enough to cause concern. Thanks for the tip on smoothing out the ridge.
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