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Universal Oil Filter Wrench
- Thread starter zoridog
- Start date
ccolwell
Member
An oil filter wrench on an airhead ?
My thoughts exactly; I think you're in the wrong place. Still, for other bikes, I've found the scissors type to be the best.
zoridog
New member
An oil filter wrench on an airhead ?
Really? I was concerned about how to tighten those funny, hinged filters. Hand tight sounds good to me!
Thanks
crazydrummerdude
advrider.com
Tighten? You just push 'em in and reassemble.
zoridog
New member
Today is the first time I had a filter in hand. When he put the box on the counter I thought this can't be the right part. Way too small ...
You can't accuse BMW engineers of not thinking out of the box. This is the most bizarre filter I've ever seen. Maybe I'll attempt my first oil change this weekend.
Thanks!
You can't accuse BMW engineers of not thinking out of the box. This is the most bizarre filter I've ever seen. Maybe I'll attempt my first oil change this weekend.
Thanks!
krehmkej
Airhead
If this is your first filter change on an airhead, pay careful attention to the arrangement of shims and o-rings under the filter cover. They are critical to maintaining oil pressure, hence the ring having earned the title "$2000 O-Ring". You might want to review this link:
http://www.airheads.org/content/view/189/49/
http://www.airheads.org/content/view/189/49/
zoridog
New member
I read that last night. It convinced me to go to an airhead tech day before I dive in. Thanks!
bikerfish1100
New member
new at bmw's and havn't changed my oil myself yet.
Why does the tool cost so much?
seem like you could find on that fits in auto zone for under $6
One for my C50 is way cheaper than these CNC wonders.
I can and did buy a K&N filter w/ the socket nut on it.
dude, your RT is an oilhead, not an airhead, so any discussion here will be relatively pointless, tho possibly interesting.
and yes, you pretty much need the correctly sized wrench for the stock filter; one from Autozone or similar will be "close, but no cigar". interestingly, my tdi VW uses the exact same wrench, as does MercedesBenz.
and yes, the K&N is a GREAT alternative.
108625
New member
It does amaze me that some of the same people who swear by the "elegant simplicity" of the airhead also use a two pages of instructions and a micrometer to change an oil filter.
I wonder if Luftwaffe mechanics working on BMW 801C-1 radial powered Focke-Wolfe 190s is Russian winters were as ana-oops, er, meticulous.
Rinty
New member
oil filter
And me, even though there is an explanation for the complexity of the RT / RS filter design (but I'm not going there).
I've done the change in my airhead RS in as little as 20 minutes, but the last time I performed this masochistic task, it took 90 minutes. After that, I let my indie do it. It's not as if he's getting rich working on BMW's. And I don't care to re read the articles every time to make sure I'm not stacking o rings, square rings, and metal shims.
The most difficult part of the whole deal is getting that top allen bolt on the filter cavity cover loose. You need a special T handle allen wrench with a ball end to get in there.
And me, even though there is an explanation for the complexity of the RT / RS filter design (but I'm not going there).
I've done the change in my airhead RS in as little as 20 minutes, but the last time I performed this masochistic task, it took 90 minutes. After that, I let my indie do it. It's not as if he's getting rich working on BMW's. And I don't care to re read the articles every time to make sure I'm not stacking o rings, square rings, and metal shims.
The most difficult part of the whole deal is getting that top allen bolt on the filter cavity cover loose. You need a special T handle allen wrench with a ball end to get in there.
AnnapolisAirhead
--Tony
At least the question was asked, although I'm not quite sure where to mount a twist on filter on an airhead.
Isn't a 10mm wrench universal? Fits all 10mm nuts n' bolts I've tried.
(You DO realize we are teasing you, I hope).
Seriously, buy a Clymer's shop manual that covers your 1994 R100R and get to know Snowbum's knowledge base articles before you do a $2000 oil change. It's not complicated, but it is crucial to get the sequence correct. Locate the oil filter on your bike and determine if you have an oil cooler--there is a difference in filter kits. Also, change the aluminum crush washer on the oil pan drain plug every time and remember you are threading a steel drain plug into an aluminum (read: soft) oil pan so easy does it.
If you do NOT have an oil cooler, the filter assembly goes like this.
bike<--filter<--big metal shim<--big white o-ring<--cover plate<--10mm bolts, snugged.
Isn't a 10mm wrench universal? Fits all 10mm nuts n' bolts I've tried.
(You DO realize we are teasing you, I hope).Seriously, buy a Clymer's shop manual that covers your 1994 R100R and get to know Snowbum's knowledge base articles before you do a $2000 oil change. It's not complicated, but it is crucial to get the sequence correct. Locate the oil filter on your bike and determine if you have an oil cooler--there is a difference in filter kits. Also, change the aluminum crush washer on the oil pan drain plug every time and remember you are threading a steel drain plug into an aluminum (read: soft) oil pan so easy does it.
If you do NOT have an oil cooler, the filter assembly goes like this.
bike<--filter<--big metal shim<--big white o-ring<--cover plate<--10mm bolts, snugged.
Somebody told me to think of the order of the shims as making a sandwich out of the white o-ring put it between the shim (I tell myself the shim keep the o-ring from getting sucked into the engine) and the cover plate. Yours might be different if you have an oil cooler, I dunno.
On my friends RS MotorSport the lower fairing was a pain. You must have switched the 10mm bolts to allens. I thought about doing that, but I don't have those ball-end allens to get to that one you are talking about.
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