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Securing For Transport

S

SMOKEWAGON

Guest
Just wanted to say thanks for all the ideas in my other posts. I don't post all that often, but am thankful for the ideas and advice I can get through here.

With that I need some help again. I need to transport my ride in the back of my friend's truck to the dealer. I have never had the need to do this, and now I do. (The dealer is 2 1/2 hours away) My question is... what is the best way to tie down my bike (04 R1100S) where it is the most secure and I won't damage it? I do have tie downs. Now that I think about it, I guess what I really need to know is, the best place to use the tie downs?

Thanks again for the help.

Brian
 
See if you can round up a Canyon Dancer. It fits over your bars and has loops so you can tie the bike down more easily. Most bike shops have them.

Load the bike into the bed of the truck and put the front wheel against the front of the bed. Sit on the bike, put the Canyon Dancer on and have a friend attach the tie downs to the ends of the CD. Pull the tie downs down tight, so the front suspension is working back and keeps the tie downs tight. You want the tie downs attach forward and low so they keep the front wheel against the bed and the suspension compressed.

You don't have to kill the suspension pulling it down, you just want it snug.

If you want, or can, run a strap over the rear to keep the rear from hopping around in the bed and getting the bike all crossed up.

Bringing my airhead home from LA:
16226289-M.jpg
 
I use a "dogbone" strap around the base of each side of the handlebar, or around the lower triple-tree (although the paralever is different). The dogbone is a short strap doubled over. You put it around a secure spot, and pass it through itself. Then connect the tie-down strap to that. I don't like using the handlebar grips as a tiedown spot, as I have seen bars move in their clamps. I like the suspension to be well pulled down, so if you hit a strong bump with the truck, it won't bounce, dip and come loose. Ties work well when at a 45 degree angle or so. Not good when parallel with the ground. Have a strap at each corner, each pulling away from the others. Be careful not to pinch or pull any wires, cables or hoses with the straps. Wrap up the excess strap so it doesn't flail around and scuff the bike. An old leather glove works to prevent scuffing if something might rub against the bike. Be careful that the ramp doesn't slide off the back of the truck when you are unloading. Have a couple of spotters to help you unload it. If you try it alone, the bike could get away from you. If it lands on you, it could cripple or kill you. WoW!!!! It has happened. A Harley owner was unloading his new bike alone, it fell over onto him, and killed him. Search the net for the story. Sorry for the long detailed post, but it is worth it if a first-time bike hauler reads it. As an aside, I sold a small Jeep to a guy who carried it home on a trailer. I was following. After going over a bump on a steep up-hill, the Jeep bounced, straps got loose, and it started to come off the trailer! I dropped way back. Fortunately there was a 2x4 behind the wheels, which kept it on the trailer. Scary!
 
bmw tie down

Brian,

If you Google 'BMW tie down,' you will find a link to a pdf file by the BMW Motorcycle Aftersales Group that thoroughly describes how to secure a BMW for transport. It's a good file to keep in your folder of "useful information."

peterh
 
Thanks for the advice. Bike got to its destination safe and sound.
 
If you go to any auto parts store they sell motorcycle straps back by the section with all the tralier accessories, they loop on to your handle bars so you can then use any tie down without damaging your bike. When I bought them it was $6 for two straps (one for each side of the handle bars) and they worked great for me and were very easy to use.
 
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