Thread Repair help - R1100RS

I recently did a valve adjustment in preparation for a long trip (it was time anyway) and, when removing the plastic valve cover guard, mistakenly pulled the head bolt on the flange next to the bottom bolt of the guard. Not thinking that that was a critical bolt, I put it back in with my allen wrench and didn't worry about torque. On my trip, I noticed my right boot getting oil on it. I tightened it a bit more at the campground. Still leaking. I monitored oil level and added about 0.5 qt in 1700 miles.

When I got home I REALLY screwed up. I misread the torque value as 40 nm. I thought that was very high, but used my torque wrench and royally stripped them.

1. What are my options, and what is the best option?
2. I imagine that the head has to come off to repair the threads, which will mean new head gasket and maintaining valve timing during the repair. Should I replace head gasket on both sides, or can I leave the left side untouched?

In spite of all that, I had a wonderful 8-day solo trip to Colorado, camping most of the nights and riding a huge amount of twisties and switchbacks.

Got any pictures of the damaged threads?

On my 94 R1100RS I had a leaking head gasket. During the replacement I followed BMW's torque specifications, but still one of the studs that holds the heads in place stripped.

I used a heli-coil repair for the stripped threads. The cylinder (piston removed) was used as a guide to ensure that the drill was exactly normal to the crankcase. A bit of tape on the drill bit was used to ensure that the depth of the drilling was as desired. The heli-coil was installed the cylinder and head were replaced and all head bolts retorqued to BMW's specs without issue. After 500 miles the head bolts were re-torqued. I decided to replace the head gasket on the other (left) side - there were no issues with re-torqueing the head bolts. I've since gone several thousand miles without further leaks.

If you are not comfortable with installing a heli-coil thread repair, then it would be best to get some help. For what it is worth, this is an easier repair on an oilhead bike than an airhead bike because the head stud channel is used as an oil passage for the rockers on the airhead. The oilhead has a separate oil passage.

While I was undertaking this repair I took the opportunity to de-carbon the head and piston top. I also thoroughly cleaned the fuel / air inlet as it appeared quite dirty.

Chris Harris (a BMW mechanic) has a YouTube video on dealing with a stripped head stud on an oilhead. He had some issues with removal of exhaust nuts. Fortunately I'd earlier removed my exhaust nuts and applied anti-seize so I did not have that issue when replacing the head gasket. Videos are below (Chris likes to cuss a bit) --

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Thank you for the replies. I have not yet pulled the head so no pics there. I did have aluminum in the threads of the bolt about two threads wide all the way around the bolt.

Despite how stupid or green I sound with this bonehead move, I am an experienced mechanic. I feel confident that I can accomplish this repair job. Rob, you provided some good tips and I appreciate that. I have used Chris Harris's videos before, so the language will not be a worry.

When I previously rewired my HES, I made a flywheel pin to hold TDC. So I think I'm ready to go.