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1974 R60/6... feeling lost.
- Thread starter austinob09@gmail.com
- Start date
austinob09@gmail.com
Austin
Hello, I'm back after dealing with life things.. job, sisters wedding, girlfriend, etc..
I took the fuel system complete apart, petcocks, carbs, fuel filters, fuel line and drained the tank. Yup there was sand and I clean it out really ****ing good. Put it all together and actually had the damn thing running for a hot minute but not long enough to actually ride. So I'm back to the carbs... and, to be honest, I have not a clue what I'm doing.
I started playing with the idle adjustment screw and the mixture screw by backing them all the way in and then adjusting with 90 degree turns on the way out. Is there a better method? Does anyone have any good resources? These are the Bing Slide type 53.
Anyways I feel like I'm on to it! Thank you in advanced.
I took the fuel system complete apart, petcocks, carbs, fuel filters, fuel line and drained the tank. Yup there was sand and I clean it out really ****ing good. Put it all together and actually had the damn thing running for a hot minute but not long enough to actually ride. So I'm back to the carbs... and, to be honest, I have not a clue what I'm doing.
I started playing with the idle adjustment screw and the mixture screw by backing them all the way in and then adjusting with 90 degree turns on the way out. Is there a better method? Does anyone have any good resources? These are the Bing Slide type 53.
Anyways I feel like I'm on to it! Thank you in advanced.
stevenrankin
Active member
Videos
While I have not myself looked on line for one, I would imagine someone such as Brook Reams or Duane, must have done a video or a write up on rebuilding Bing Carbs. I don't want to be a jerk but there may just be some little thing you are not getting to or you may have something out of place in the carbs.
I say that ONLY if you are very certain the carbs are the source of your problem. Once you set idle mixture close to where it should be, it doesn't take much turning either way to dial in the proper idle mixture. Gross amounts of turning mean something is wrong. Same goes for the main jet and run system. If the main jets are sized right or close to being sized right and the needles are proper and in the proper place, the bike will or should run. The amount of change needed to dial it in is minimum. While not as easy to change as turning a screw like the idle mixture.
Worst comes to worse, you could send the carbs to Bing to have them inspected and such. I have no clue what they would charge or how long it would take.
I am so sorry, I have not been much more help. Good luck, St.
While I have not myself looked on line for one, I would imagine someone such as Brook Reams or Duane, must have done a video or a write up on rebuilding Bing Carbs. I don't want to be a jerk but there may just be some little thing you are not getting to or you may have something out of place in the carbs.
I say that ONLY if you are very certain the carbs are the source of your problem. Once you set idle mixture close to where it should be, it doesn't take much turning either way to dial in the proper idle mixture. Gross amounts of turning mean something is wrong. Same goes for the main jet and run system. If the main jets are sized right or close to being sized right and the needles are proper and in the proper place, the bike will or should run. The amount of change needed to dial it in is minimum. While not as easy to change as turning a screw like the idle mixture.
Worst comes to worse, you could send the carbs to Bing to have them inspected and such. I have no clue what they would charge or how long it would take.
I am so sorry, I have not been much more help. Good luck, St.
Plenty of links to Airhead carb overhauls here:
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?75891-Online-Maintenance-Videos
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?75891-Online-Maintenance-Videos
m_stock10506
Well-known member
Good job cleaning up the tank and fuel line, and especially kudos for stating the carb model. Too bad most folks will ignore that important data point. The R60/6 slide carb is a completely different part than the CV carbs on the other bikes. One of the known troubles for them is the choke piston. The rubber ends disintegrate and then the choke is on all the time. The mixture screw is the opposite of the CV carb function, I believe it controls fuel instead of air. Even if you don’t tear them apart, drop the jet stack and make sure that there is no dirt in there. Remove the mixture screws and spray carb cleaner into the port followed by compressed air. I’m not an expert on these, but I managed to get mine running pretty well now.
stevenrankin
Active member
Ah more light!
Ah more information at hand, I have been assuming you have the Bing CV carbs, Michael makes good a very good point. It is nice he has written to add his experience. St.
Ah more information at hand, I have been assuming you have the Bing CV carbs, Michael makes good a very good point. It is nice he has written to add his experience. St.
austinob09@gmail.com
Austin
Thanks Michael!
Any kind of information on these carbs is appreciated, there doesn't seem to be a lot of information on the Bing Slide Type 53 carbs. I didn't think of taking those screws out when I cleaned the fuel system and I'll check the rubber gasket on the choke cable. I got it running today and adjusted the carbs to the point where it was idling just fine. So I think I'll just leave it as is for the time being.
Now, when I took the bike for a spin I was confronted with another issue. My bike feels sluggish and I need to give it more gas so it doesn't stall and die. When I initially started this post my bike was having this issue when I would be in 5th gear in high RPMs, all of sudden the bike would be very loud and I wouldn't be getting the same power as I had before. I would have to pull over and wait the bike would eventually go back to normal. So... it seems I'm not experiencing the same issue but now all the time. I'm guessing it's time to revisit the valves....
Any kind of information on these carbs is appreciated, there doesn't seem to be a lot of information on the Bing Slide Type 53 carbs. I didn't think of taking those screws out when I cleaned the fuel system and I'll check the rubber gasket on the choke cable. I got it running today and adjusted the carbs to the point where it was idling just fine. So I think I'll just leave it as is for the time being.
Now, when I took the bike for a spin I was confronted with another issue. My bike feels sluggish and I need to give it more gas so it doesn't stall and die. When I initially started this post my bike was having this issue when I would be in 5th gear in high RPMs, all of sudden the bike would be very loud and I wouldn't be getting the same power as I had before. I would have to pull over and wait the bike would eventually go back to normal. So... it seems I'm not experiencing the same issue but now all the time. I'm guessing it's time to revisit the valves....
m_stock10506
Well-known member
Yes, I would definitely check the valves and also check the spark plugs. If the plugs are quickly becoming fouled, that is a strong indicator of too rich, possibly from the choke piston failure.
Although the R60/6 is surely not fast off the line, it can be a surprising peppy ride and a great deal of fun.
13 11 1 335 687 PISTON (from 08/74)
Although the R60/6 is surely not fast off the line, it can be a surprising peppy ride and a great deal of fun.
13 11 1 335 687 PISTON (from 08/74)
pglaves
#13338
Is this mention of a "choke piston" a reference to the enricheners on the slide carbs?
I didn't think these slide carbs had chokes.
m_stock10506
Well-known member
Sorry Paul. The /5 slide carbs had ticklers, but the later type 53 slide carbs do have a choke. The lever is mounted on the side of the airbox cover. It wasn't a guess. I own and ride a 1974 R60/6. The part number of the piston is in my prior reply.
pglaves
#13338
m_stock10506
Well-known member
A photo of my 74 R60/6 type 53 carb with choke lever and cable for the choke piston. BTW - the Max fiche says "from 8/74" for the piston, but my bike has a build date of June 1974.
Last edited:
austinob09@gmail.com
Austin
Can you tell me what exactly is the rubber piston? I am looking at the wrong thing? See photo below.
This is the only rubber component I can find on on my choke.
Also I had the bike out yesterday, it started sluggish but then it started running quite fine. I'll keep exploring and tinkering until I can get it running perfectly.
Attachments
m_stock10506
Well-known member
Oh, so close. The rubber piece you circled is just a cover. Follow that cable, through the spring, all the way to the bottom of the cable. The bottom piece at the end of the cable is the piston. The bottom of that part should have black rubber on the bottom of it. If you go to the Max BMW parts fiche and use the part number for the piston, they have a photo of them.
austinob09@gmail.com
Austin
Gotcha. So I found them.. I had them all along when I had the carbs rebuilt from Bing.
Thank you so much for your help! One more question.
I've attached a photo of what I have that came from Bing. The end piece that is currently on the cable comes off the bottom and I attach the new piston with the gasket?
m_stock10506
Well-known member
The piston should have a rubber bottom on it.
The gasket is part 4 in the diagram. The piston is part 2.
The gasket is part 4 in the diagram. The piston is part 2.
austinob09@gmail.com
Austin
It was working great.. for 300 miles
Michael, thank you again for the choke piston help. I’ve installed the proper pistons and “tuned” the carbs to what the owners manual has listed. I’ve been super happy with it as of late.
The bike has been running great until, just now… when it just died on the side of the road. Recently I was riding and as I was slowing down with the clutch in it just sputtered and died. It was doing something similar this evening and I noticed if I kept the rpms up it would keep going. I was on my way to my way home and it started to sputter but I couldn’t save it. I wasn’t able to get going again. Luckily I was only a few blocks from my house.
Any ideas? Maybe the spark plugs!? Maybe I didn’t tune the carbs right? The exhaust has been smelling rich but I tuned the bike exactly like the owners manual said.
Michael, thank you again for the choke piston help. I’ve installed the proper pistons and “tuned” the carbs to what the owners manual has listed. I’ve been super happy with it as of late.
The bike has been running great until, just now… when it just died on the side of the road. Recently I was riding and as I was slowing down with the clutch in it just sputtered and died. It was doing something similar this evening and I noticed if I kept the rpms up it would keep going. I was on my way to my way home and it started to sputter but I couldn’t save it. I wasn’t able to get going again. Luckily I was only a few blocks from my house.
Any ideas? Maybe the spark plugs!? Maybe I didn’t tune the carbs right? The exhaust has been smelling rich but I tuned the bike exactly like the owners manual said.
I wouldn't think both spark plugs would fail at the same time, but if you think you're running rich, the spark plugs would show it. You had to fill the bike up with gas at least once in that 300 miles...what kind of gas mileage are you getting. I don't think it would be the cause, but maybe your gas tank isn't venting...pop open the gas cap and see if that helps.
You might need to look on the electrical side as in you points. Could be they've been slowly closing up.
You might need to look on the electrical side as in you points. Could be they've been slowly closing up.
austinob09@gmail.com
Austin
Hey Kurt yeah I’ve filled up twice and I’m in need of another fill up. So I’m +/- 150 per tank does that sound right?
I’ll check my plugs and points when I have time this weekend. Is it common for the points to go out of adjust that fast? Might be time to invest in the electronic points…
I’ll check my plugs and points when I have time this weekend. Is it common for the points to go out of adjust that fast? Might be time to invest in the electronic points…
What size tank do you have? I think there was a 4.8gal and a 5.8gal (US gallons) tank available for 1974 but it cost extra. If you're filling up and putting say 4 gallons, then that's around 37 mpg which is decent. If it's the larger tank and you put in 5 gallons, that's 30 mpg which is not so good.
What about valve clearances? Are they getting tighter?
What about valve clearances? Are they getting tighter?
