AntonLargiader
Active member
Wish I could find the article.
It's not there; that's just a sampling of what the magazine contained. Some are just titles, some excerpts, some full articles.
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Wish I could find the article.
Hi Roger,
When are you going to do the spline lube? Who knows, maybe things won't be as bad as you think. I did mine at about 39K miles and could not detect any wear at all even under a magnifying glass. Was easy to do as I separated the trans from the engine without disassembly of the drive train. Just positioned an hydraulic jack on wheels under the tranny and rolled everything back. Then if you get lucky put it back together and forget you have that 6th gear! I know that is hard to do especially with that LC-1 installed. Oh, one more thing..buy a clutch slave cylinder for about fifty bucks in advance because you will probably need it..grrrr
Here is a post from a guy who never lubed his splines until he pulled the transmission at 175,000 miles.
http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=865215#Post865215
And the photos from his links:
Here is a post from a guy who never lubed his splines until he pulled the transmission at 175,000 miles.
That's a 5-speed spline. Not unusual at all.
Hi Roger,
I wouldn't say it is impossible to clean and lube splines with trans still on guide pins but it would be very cumbersome and complete separation is really not an issue especially with the drive train intact including rear wheel. Don't forget to put a dab of spline lube on the very end of the clutch push rod.
Thanks, I was wondering if I could avoid rigging the movable support but come to think of it the creeper will do fine.
Is it best to re-engage hub and spline exactly as they were, or not necessary?
Is the 5 speed a full hub/spline engagement?
The clutch disk shown has a torsional damper in it and show a pilot bearing. Ours do not have either, and as a result, the hub is radially very stiff with respect to the friction surfaces. They seem to be simply worried about the spline dragging axially.
Our problem is that since there is no pilot bearing assuring alignment, the possibility of hi-cycle radial spline loading is very real. Simple estimates of the forces involved show that our spline wear is dominated by radial alignment errors.
Why else do some bikes show zero wear, and others shell the spline out every so-many miles?
And some comments from them on lubrication: http://www.zf.com/brands/content/en...sachs/useful_tips_sachs/naben/hub_spline.html
It would really be interesting to know if riding style factors into this.
The clutch disk shown has a torsional damper in it and show a pilot bearing. Ours do not have either, and as a result, the hub is radially very stiff with respect to the friction surfaces. They seem to be simply worried about the spline dragging axially.
Our problem is that since there is no pilot bearing assuring alignment, the possibility of hi-cycle radial spline loading is very real. Simple estimates of the forces involved show that our spline wear is dominated by radial alignment errors.
Why else do some bikes show zero wear, and others shell the spline out every so-many miles?
The reason shaft wear is tapered is that the flex plate is near that end of the spline hub, concentrating and reacting any radial load there.While I completely understand, and don't disagree a with centerline misalignment, it doesn't seem like a good model to explain tapered wear on the splines.
The reason shaft wear is tapered is that the flex plate is near that end of the spline hub, concentrating and reacting any radial load there.
There is no resonance related problem here. I designed several high speed spinning torsional vibration test stands for the auto industry before retirement.