1984 R100 via Hurricane Katrina

[From MARS]

Gravity,

If there is oil where there is supposed to be oil, then somebody has put it in after the submersion. Hopefully, the engine, transmission, and FD were pickled within hours of having been submerged. On boats, this involved flushing the cylinders and oil pan with fresh water, turning over the engine (by hand if possible) with the injectors/spark plugs removed to force out as much water as possible, then coating the cylinders with something like Marvel Mystery Oil. All electrical parts were pulled, rebuilt/replaced, and the connections treated with Corrosion Block. The first oil/filter replacement was done after just turning the engine over with the cylinders open. New oil and filter would be put in, and the engine started. After 5 minutes of running at idle, the oil/filter would be changed again and again until there was no indication of water.

The killer is if water was left inside the engine, and it was allowed to sit.

Tom

 

[Gravity]

Yea, there's is water in the oil. Pic tells the story. The sludge was good looking if you like coffee with cream in your crankcase. It was sloppy coming out but not gushing.

I took a can of PB blaster to the frame to slow the damage there but my optimism is more tempered than it was yesterday. Time will tell.

I also unpacked the full fairing and windscreen that came in a box with the bike. On the windscreen there was the lettering "The Brown Hornet". I believe that someone loved this bike. Perhaps it will be so again.

The Clymers manual arrives tomorrow. I suppose I should look for the best way to drop the motor and have it on a bench to proceed?

Thanks again,

Gravity

 

[68159]

EVERYTHING will need to come apart. All the components have weep holes or vents that would allow water to enter. Even if there's oil in a case, the internal components typically sit above the oil level. Note that salt water is much more corrosive than fresh water.

However, it's possible to polish parts such as gears to remove surface rust if there are no deep pits. Lots of elbow grease, water displacing solvent (say WD-40) and stiff brass brush or wet sandpaper. That's what they do in Cuba, where import parts are not available.

And some parts, such as rings and valves can be replaced. Parts are available through BMW dealers, some of whom (such as Max BMW) have online microfiche and parts ordering. You should plan on replacing all ball and roller bearings, seal rings and seals, since the races and rollers will very likely be pitted from rust.

It might be possible to save the tank. There are shops specializing in saving fuel tanks. Probably not more than $400, plus $200 to get painted. Used tanks are available for around $250, but will still need to be painted to match your scheme.

Don't overlook the frame. There are openings to the inside of the tubing. If the frame is rusty inside the tubes, that could lead to catastrophic failure. As a minimum, I would drill vent holes as needed to squirt water displacing solvent into the tubes completely full, then drain. Any rust that comes out used to be steel.

The engine should be completely disassembled, especially if you find any visible rust or corrosion when you pull the pan. Even if you find a component such as the camshaft corroded beyond use, there are troves of used parts around, including frames and short blocks.

If the wiring was saturated with salt water, I would suggest finding a NOS main wiring harness. If water got into the instruments, you might as well assume they are gone. However, if you get far enough that the electrics are the next step, note that there are complete charging systems (Omega,etc.) aviailable that work better than the stock, and a replacement starter (see Motorrad Elektric)

It's possible to bring that machine back to life, but it's going to cost. The question is whether you'd be better off financially buying a similar machine that hasn't been dunked, or whether you want to gain the experience of building an entire machine. The experts lurking on this site have typically learned about airheads from 20 or 30 years of fiddling.

If I were planning on building that machine up to good running condition (not show, just operational) I'd figure on about a year of part time work, and $4,000 to $5,000 in parts and subcontract labor. Lots of airhead owners are shocked at the price of some tiny parts such as the advance mechanism, and the effort (and knowledge) needed to overhaul components such as the transmission.

Whatever you decide to do, you'll find plenty of practical advice on this forum.

pmdave

Very well put and informative.

 

[edwarddieck]

So, you got the R100S on the North Shore. I inquired and got an E=Mail it sold today. After looking at the photos it is a bit more than I would have liked to tackle.

However, a friend of mine bought a Katrina GS oilhead which had been submerged for a year in salt water. He figured he would be able to use the plastic parts. Last time I saw him he was using the final drive. It did have some staining from the salt.

I guess you never know about these BMWs.

Ed

 

[Gravity]

So, you got the R100S on the North Shore. I inquired and got an E=Mail it sold today. After looking at the photos it is a bit more than I would have liked to tackle.

However, a friend of mine bought a Katrina GS oilhead which had been submerged for a year in salt water. He figured he would be able to use the plastic parts. Last time I saw him he was using the final drive. It did have some staining from the salt.

I guess you never know about these BMWs.

Ed

True enough! I think that once the fairing is cleaned up it will be enough to cover the cost of the purchase. However, it isn't about the money, it is about the mechanical adventure that lies ahead. I have an orange K1300s that I can ride that breaths fire. This project is really to keep me busy and hopefully produce something good out of it.

Let me know if you are into some adventure. My Clymers manual arrives tomorrow and I'll begin to tear it down. I'll be doing some substantial wrenching this weekend.

Best,

Gravity (Tom)

 

[Gravity]

Heck, I got this bike for a reason. I was bored. So bored that I went back into the garage and dropped the oil pan. Here is a shot of what I saw. Not much in the way of rust but in the pan was a watery mix of water and oil but mostly oil.

It continues to drain. I'll clean it up pretty good tomorrow when I have a few more minutes.

Gravity

 

[bob_m]

Renegade

http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?t=29336&highlight=renegade

I look forward to this continuing saga. For an amusing tale of ambition and harsh reality read LoneLobo's thread about his efforts to restore the infamous "Renegade". I hope the link works

 

[kstoo]

 

[skiteach]

We rescued a 530i from a Boston flood, for a customer. I do not know how long it lasted. It did run very well when we were finished. Good luck and happy learning! We are gathered here to observe and offer advice.

 

[Gravity]

Oil filter and pan are free from metal particles of any kind. Perhaps over the years they have disintegrated? The bike has 22k miles so it should be broken in quite well.

I'm taking this as a sign of encouragement.

When I tear down the motor I'm looking for rust or other malformations?

Thanks,

Gravity

 

[Fourcats]

It looks like you are going to become a parts cleaner/inspector. Get a parts washer and a place to put the "accepted" parts {for reassembly}.
You will be looking for anything that wasn't "stock" on the bike..."can I deal with it or replace it?" Bearings/bearing surfaces will need the most "looking at".

Think of how much "stuff" you will have learned when its up and running...

 

[skiteach]

Rust and pitting are the main concerns

 

[From MARS]

Tom,

Have you pulled the starter and front covers? Just curious what you found.

If the frame is shot, you could always use the engine in an airboat.

BTW, I got married in Ponchatoula. We had the only sailboat in the marina up the Tickfaw River. One morning, we were sitting in the boat having coffee and listening to the fishermen's comments as they headed out of the marina. They all seemed intrigued by the wind-generator's big propeller. The general consensus was that it must have been used to push the boat when there was no wind.

Tom

 

[Gravity]

I haven't pulled the front cover yet. I'm still trying to locate or buy an exhaust nut tool. I think my anon book is home so I'll have to wait until tonight to get to it. Otherwise, I see some good sources for purchasing one. I know I'll need one if I keep tinkering with the airheads but was hoping to score one before the weekend so the tear down could ensue.

I wish I could buy a complete set of tools with everything I will need for the job but that "kit" doesn't seem to exist. From what I see many people make their own and I expect to make a few too.

I'm going to drain the tranny tonight and pull the front cover and mess about some more to see what I can see. The batter came out due to the PB blaster saturating the metal parts. I was stunned to see the nuts come off the battery retaining bolts which are very, very rusted.

Keeping you posted,

Gravity

 

[Gravity]

Front cover is off. Pretty much looks...well, see for yourself:

 

[Gravity]

I also drained the transmission fluid. Here is what it looked like:

There was less red than there was beige.

 

[Gravity]

Finally some good news. Ed visited me to take a look at the bike and he was about as nice and optimistic person you will ever meet. Ed was curious about the wiring in the headlight so I loosed the screw and we pulled of the lens and disconnected the bulb.

It's nice to find something good about the bike you are working on.

Ed also pointed out that there are many parts of value on the bike and that I could easily part it out and make a small fortune. Perhaps a fortune large enough to purchase something that might be road worthy one day. That last part is my thought, not Ed's.

 

[Gravity]

Just a quick update for you that have been holding your breath waiting for the inevitable:

As I started taking off the exhaust system things began to crumble in my hands. It seems that the water had sat in the bottom of the exhaust pipes and there was nary a section that wasn't ready to fall completely into rusty pieces.

The patient gulf waters drained by the teaspoon as I removed the cylinder covers and then loosed the heads. It's not pretty in there. It seems, to make matters more to what you might expect, that the pistons are frozen inside the cylinders. The progress is beginning to slow a bit now.

My daughter had some fun washing the fairing pieces and body work which also look aged yet still serviceable and the tires are still holding air.

That's about it for the weekend work. I'll be less distracted next weekend and hope to get those cylinders free by then.

Stay tuned,

Gravity

 

[pmdave]

I suggest you pull the jugs with the pistons (unbolt the rods if you can't reach the pin circlips) and soak the cylinder/piston in some penetrating oil. Diesel is cheap enough to submerge the whole shebang in a bucket.

However, those cylinders look awfully corroded, and the corrosion can actually cause aluminum alloy to disintegrate. So, you might start thinking about getting a used engine.

The wiring appears to not have been submerged, which is fantastic news.

pmdave

 

[pmdave]

I haven't pulled the front cover yet. I'm still trying to locate or buy an exhaust nut tool. I think my anon book is home so I'll have to wait until tonight to get to it. Otherwise, I see some good sources for purchasing one. I know I'll need one if I keep tinkering with the airheads but was hoping to score one before the weekend so the tear down could ensue.

I wish I could buy a complete set of tools with everything I will need for the job but that "kit" doesn't seem to exist. From what I see many people make their own and I expect to make a few too.

I'm going to drain the tranny tonight and pull the front cover and mess about some more to see what I can see. The batter came out due to the PB blaster saturating the metal parts. I was stunned to see the nuts come off the battery retaining bolts which are very, very rusted.

Keeping you posted,

Gravity

I doubt those exhaust nuts will come off clean, even with the proper wrench. I suggest you saw them off, and buy new ones if it appears the engine is salvagable.

pmdave