!!OH NO!! Not !Another oil question??!!

[rocketman]

Ok, so let me explain…

After ten years and 150 thousand glorious miles spent exploring the back roads of the eastern seaboard in company with Tourizmo ( my 78 R100T ), I figured it was high time to treat the old girl to a nice Motor Spa treatment and she now has a completely rebuilt motor. Pretty much everything except the case, crank, camshaft and internal bearings has been replaced. No only the internals but also timing chain and bearing, clutch (which still had another 30k to go) valves etc and seals have been replaced. Nothing cosmetic, I could care less about looks, this was just all the important stuff.

She now has 600 miles since I brought her home 3 weeks ago. I had forgotten just how peppy a 1000 can be. On the last leg home I couldn’t resist passing a cars I really didn’t need`to (we were doing 70 on a two lane country road) These things are anything but slouchy when it comes getting up and going (well for airheads anyway!). She in better shape motor-wise than when I got her with 22K. I've put essentially nothing into replacement part during that time other than a clutch and timing chain.

( shameless plug )
Kudos too to the young mechanic who did the work. He came over about 2 and half years ago to learn the business from his dad who had been working on Airheads for over the past 30 some years and was also a personal friend. Even with the death of his father, Lap, last year, Khanh has really learned the ins and outs of and developed a real feel for these machines. Anyone in the northern va/dc/md area interested in his location, quality of work, etc, ping me with a PM. There is nothing like having an independent shop with a knowledge proprietor for us who love these old machines so close by. I’d rather deal with a good independent shop any day, esp. when its a place you can often ride in and get stuff done and ride home that afternoon.

Ok I know, I know, stop rambling and get to the question..

Considering that I have an essentially brand new motor, seals etc;

Should I switch over to using synthetic oil?

RM

 

[Yarddog]

With the automotive engines that I rebuild, I use dino for the first 3,000...and then switch to synth...I'm certain that others may have different approches, but I wouldn't be too quick to make the switch...

 

[20774]

Kudos too to the young mechanic who did the work. He came over about 2 and half years ago to learn the business from his dad who had been working on Airheads for over the past 30 some years and was also a personal friend. Even with the death of his father, Lap, last year, Khanh has really learned the ins and outs of and developed a real feel for these machines.

I had heard about the passing of Lap and this his son might take up the business. I just noticed his new ad in the VBMWMO Bulletin that I recently received. It's good to hear he's continuing the work and that has absorbed Lap's knowledge.

His website is http://www.eubmw.com/

 

[VANZEN]

agreed, sort of ...

... dino for the first 3,000...and then switch to synth...

from Amsoil:
...petroleum oil has a very low film strength which is ideal for breaking in a new engine.
That is why we recommend you run the factory installed petroleum oil
for about the about the first 500 miles or up to the first scheduled oil change...

 

[Yarddog]

from Amsoil:
...petroleum oil has a very low film strength which is ideal for breaking in a new engine.
That is why we recommend you run the factory installed petroleum oil
for about the about the first 500 miles or up to the first scheduled oil change...

Just so...I change the oil to fresh dino at 500, then do a short interval, then introduce synth...just my way, works well, but it ain't gospel for sure!!! Amsoil has done the research for sure...

 

[tommcgee]

Owners manuals have recommendations for the oil you should use. It's a better place for advice than an internet forum. As long as the service rating meets specs, I figure it doesn't matter if you choose dino or plastic.

 

[osbornk]

I'd probably use whatever got it the first 150K and 31 years.

 

[20774]

I'd probably use whatever got it the first 150K.

Now that makes sense!!

 

[rocketman]

I'd probably use whatever got it the first 150K and 31 years.

Now that makes sense!!

I agree that makes sense as well. I ran castrol 20/50 pretty much year round since it never gets all that cold in the mid-Atlantic area for any long periods, occationally going to 10/40 if we were in for a predicted long spell and then whiched to the High-mileage castrol at around 90K. Certainly it always did well in all my airheads over the years with well over 300K total between them. Still just because something works well doesn't mean one should not explore other options that might work even better. If i thought otherwise, I'd still be using my old 1969 Nikon F and 1964 half-frame flim cameras and a 286 based computer!

The main drawback for me on switching to synth was that from what I have read it tended to leak out more as seals get old (mine were all original and were starting to seep). I did go to synth in the tranny some time ago and it did seem to improve shifting somewhat so thought I would explore the possibility of going with it for engine oil. just wondering if others have done so and what their thoughts were. I am planning on another 150k and then another after that (if I'm around then!) I know this is somewhat subjective in nature but figured anything I can to do further improve the life of the motor is worth exploring. For all reports dino does have some advantages but wonder if its worth it given the older metallurgical technology of an airhead (if that is even a factor I guess I'm sort of thinking out loud here.

RM

 

[rocketman]

I had heard about the passing of Lap and this his son might take up the business. I just noticed his new ad in the VBMWMO Bulletin that I recently received. It's good to hear he's continuing the work and that has absorbed Lap's knowledge.

His website is http://www.eubmw.com/

Yup and there are many very relived folks in this area snice it was the only local independent in the DC area. I've even go so far as to say Khanh did a better job than his Dad would, simply because he's young and enthusiastic and his Dad was getting a bit older and crotchety ( which is not meant to be demeaning, he was a good friend and very knowledgeable) but even he admitted he was getting tired and with his illness well, that's life.

With Khanh's help I plan on many many many more miles with my machine. Other bikes may come and go, but tourizmo is here to stay! Hell someday I may even give her a new coat (of paint)!
then again, maybe not....

RM

 

[JAMESDUNN]

Rocketman, you state you used Castrol in your bike, mostly in a 20W50 going to 10/40 during cold spells. This is what I use in part because it is economical and readily available. (My local O'Reilly's auto supply stocks Castrol 4T motorcycle oil.) I considered syn. in my airhead but ultimately stayed with Dino and Castrol.

 

[VANZEN]

...
The main drawback for me on switching to synth was that from what I have read it tended to leak out more as seals get old (mine were all original and were starting to seep) ...RM

Amsoil, again:
"You may have heard the myth that synthetic oil can cause engine seals to leak. Synthetics absolutely do not cause seals to leak, they simply may only reveal an existing leak path and seal which has failed and is in need of mechanical replacement. ... What happens is exactly as we described above. If you have a very old engine that has been running petroleum oil, and it also leaks, for example around the rear-main oil seal, then chances are it will leak more with synthetic oil ... AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils are recommended for use in mechanically sound engines!"

An old Castrol GTX fan, I now use synth in every sound engine, trans, shaft, and FD.

 

[osbornk]

Amsoil, again:
"You may have heard the myth that synthetic oil can cause engine seals to leak. Synthetics absolutely do not cause seals to leak, they simply may only reveal an existing leak path and seal which has failed and is in need of mechanical replacement. ... What happens is exactly as we described above.

Myth? How can they say it's a myth when synthetic leaks and dino doesn't? The "existing leak path" must be small enough that dino doesn't flow through it but synthetic does. I don't consider I have a leak path if nothing is traveling through it. I think it is a case of Amzoil trying to sell their product rather than giving the facts. Based on Amzoil propaganda I have seen and heard, I am and will never be a potential customer. I've listened to their "logic" for years.

I run a synthetic blend in my truck and SUV (Motorcraft that is cheaper than dino at WM)and I ran synthetic in my car when it was on closeout but they are newer with softer seals. I wouldn't be afraid to use synthetic in my 03 bike with its siofter seals.

 

[CTellman]

Myth?

It is a given that synthetic will find any breach in an engine, trans, shaft or fd. Synthetic is oilier. It penetrates better and thus cools better. That's why it lubricates better.
I have sold synthetic to boat owners who wouldn't listen to me. After a few hours of run time, their bilge pumps are pumping oil overboard!
(The Coast Guard gets upset!)
So old engines will weep, seep or leak with synthetic oils. It is a matter of fact.
Campbell Tellman II
'93 R100RT

 

[jforgo]

Myth? How can they say it's a myth when synthetic leaks and dino doesn't? The "existing leak path" must be small enough that dino doesn't flow through it but synthetic does. I don't consider I have a leak path if nothing is traveling through it. I think it is a case of Amzoil trying to sell their product rather than giving the facts. Based on Amzoil propaganda I have seen and heard, I am and will never be a potential customer. I've listened to their "logic" for years.

Amsoil's statement is an exercise in semantics. Technically, it does not cause leaks - it just has a propensity for opening up existing leak paths which are closed

 

[dduelin]

Owners manuals have recommendations for the oil you should use. It's a better place for advice than an internet forum. As long as the service rating meets specs, I figure it doesn't matter if you choose dino or plastic.

Gee, what am I going to do when I can't find SE oils recommended in my 29 year old owner's manual? Oh that's right, SE oil isn't available any more and hasn't been for many years. Guess I'll go ask the kid stocking oil at Wal Mart what to use.

 

[20774]

Gee, what am I going to do when I can't find SE oils recommended in my 29 year old owner's manual? Oh that's right, SE oil isn't available any more and hasn't been for many years. Guess I'll go ask the kid stocking oil at Wal Mart what to use.

You then look to BMW's service bulletins, released in 1992 for /5-on Airheads which indicate to use oils rated to API SG. Your dealer can help you there. So can a multitude of other places.

 

[dduelin]

You then look to BMW's service bulletins, released in 1992 for /5-on Airheads which indicate to use oils rated to API SG. Your dealer can help you there. So can a multitude of other places.

My sarcasm was lost, eh?

 

[kgadley01]

I camped with a fellow a few years ago that was riding an old 1930-something Indian Chief. He was doing a check of everything one morning when I ask him what kind of oil he ran in such an old bike. he just smiled and said Mobil 1 syn. He said it cut down the wear on critical parts by 50%. I was impressed.

 

[20774]

My sarcasm was lost, eh?

Ooops...I guess it was lost on me. Sorry, didn't see that tongue in your cheek from here...