Flat Rear Tire

[slowpokepete]

Good morning, all.

Yesterday I flatted my R80ST rear tire when it picked up a nail

I was able to get home, but probably rode a couple of miles all together with the flat.

I have a spoked rear wheel, and mono shock, the tire is tubed.

Any help in resolving this at home would be greatly appreciated, specifically...

* can I replace the tube without removing the rear wheel? This would obviously be the best option.

* how can I be sure I did not damage the tire?

* how can I be sure I did not damage the wheel?

* if I have to remove the rear wheel, what exactly do I need to do to get this done? How difficult a job is it?

If I can remove the rear wheel myself, I can easily bring it to Max BMW for new tube / wheel inspection / new tire if necessary.

If removing the rear wheel is too difficult for me to accomplish, I would need to look into renting a motorcycle trailer to get it to Max. I do have a pickup truck, but no ramps, and have heard horror stories about loading a motorcycle into the back of a pickup, so not looking to go this route.

SPP

 

[20774]

SPP -

It might be best to have Max do the work to include inspection of the tire and rim. With the mono shock, aren't there just 3-4 bolts holding the wheel to the final drive that are accessible from the left side? I'd say get the bike up on the center stand and ensure that the rear tire is off the ground and stays that way. Tie a rope around the center stand and the front tire to keep the stand from collapsing. Then with the appropriate socket, take off the lug nuts. You may need to back off the rear brake shoes...probably a threaded rod on the right side with a wing nut. I've never seen inside the hub on those rims...maybe the splines need to be cleaned? Maybe there are no splines on the mono shock??

 

[stevenrankin]

Max

I have heard Max has a pick up and delivery bike service in place. To a lesser degree, I think Kissels in Tyrone PA also does the same. They may have capitalized on the fact no BMW dealerships exist in Western NY and provided a service. St.

 

[Omega Man]

I like what Kurt said.
If you have never been in the back wheel area......and now you have to......it is probably a great time to bring it to MAX. They can do a bit of an inspection while they have the wheel assembly off/apart.
Loading the bike into the back of the pickup isn’t a big deal- really. The loading process can be made a lot easier if you have a way to cut the load angle with a wall or mound.
If you do trailer, here is a good thread on trailer rental-

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?88430-U-Haul-motorycle-trailer

Good luck.
OM

 

[Paul_F]

You could use the Anonymous Book to see if someone near you has a trailer and would be willing to help you transport your bike to Max.

 

[6322]

The ST is a piece of cake to change the tires on. The main thing is lighten the back end. If you have saddlebags or anything on the backend, remove it to lighten it (not the rack, just the cargo).

With the bike on the center stand, loosen the three lug nuts. Remove the top bolt on the rear shock mount to let the swing arm come down a little farther. Remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel. Reverse to install the wheel and torque the lug nuts.

The tire is history if you drove severals mile on it flat. The rim may be ok but have Max check it out. In a normal situation, you can change a tube without taking the tire off the rim but considering your current situation, new tube, new tire.

In the future you might consider carrying what you need to fix a flat on the road. In my case, on my ST, I carry a compact, off brand, electric air pump, a new rear tube (you’re more likely to pick up a rear flat than front one because the front tire hits the debris and sets it up for the rear tire), longer aftermarket tire irons (BMW are okay and will do in a pinch but longer is better), and a couple of rim savers. Also a little talcum powder for inside the tire between it and the tube.

Hope you’re back on the road soon.

 

[barryg]

Ditto to what Gary said. Carry tire stuff U need. Make sure your BMW tool kit is complete. A couple of extra long tire irons can help. I added a small pipe extension to fit over the lug wrench to break the wheel lugs loose. Check your onboard oem tire pump. Make sure it works, if it's weak or defective, replace it. Add a small modern air supply system. At least carry a spare rear tube and a small patch kit. I have pinched a new tube in a change on the road. A rear tire tube can be stretched and used on on the front wheel in an emergency. I carry the Japanese brand tubes. Generally they are half the size of the German brand tubes, so easier to pack and carry. I've been on the side of the road working on my flat and I've had guys/bikers stop and offer to help. They see I've got the stuff, they usually pitch in and help.






i

edit the run away letters thx















w

 

[nickrides]

This is all good advice telling Slow Poke what tools to bring on the road.

But, if he has never taken the wheel off before and changed a tube at home, doing it on the side of the road I don't think is going to work out so well IMHO.

Maybe if he had a new tube and air pump and tire irons and hand tools, Maybe, someone with the skills might stop and do it for him, maybe, never know.

In Crawford Colorado last summer I saw a guy on a GS1200 in a parking lot messing with his rear wheel. I stopped- he had a screw in the rear tire. He had nothing. I plugged it and had him rolling in 20 mins and he bought me a nice lunch. Met a new friend Peter Burchmore from MT. Non mechanic but likes to ride.
Nick
1978 R80

 

[slowpokepete]

Agree with my lack of experience.

I can fix most mechanicals on the side of the road when it comes to bicycles but motorcycles is a whole different thing to me.

For example, with a mono shock rear, what would be the specific procedure to swap the tube? Would the bike need to be laid on its side?

As far as the electric mini-pump, is there one that I could plug into my battery tender plug, or would I need to have one that connects directly to the battery terminals.

The good thing is I don't really do much riding far from home...the bad news is, well, as I found out yesterday, getting stuck!

My wife picked me up at a local farm about 8 miles from home when I got the flat. I returned with an air compressor full of air, and after reinflating the tire, thought (or should I say hoped) it was a slow enough leak for me to make it home, which it almost did.

But it was incredibly frustrating that something so "minor" could cause such a major situation.

I really appreciate all the the ideas and help so far.

I will try and pull the rear wheel, which it seems like I ought to be able to do, and bring it to Max on Tuesday.

Please continue to offer insights and assistance...I really am trying to learn.

SPP

 

[6322]

A lot of our lessons came from experiences. Lessons learned. I think about minor things that could leave me stranded. A flat tire, a blown fuse, a burned out headlight bulb or a broken throttle or clutch cable. For these I carry spares and the necessary tools to change them.

For removing the back wheel, try and use the tools with the bike. Anyone can do it in their shop with shop tools but if you’re on the road you’ll only have the tools under the seat. If you need to supplement them to get the job done, then you know what you need to add to the bike’s kit.

Regarding changing the tube, or tire for that matter, just remove the wheel from the bike. It’s a five minute job and makes the wheel much easier to work on.

Regarding the tire pump, there are some “famous motorcycle” brand pumps, but you can go to a place like Walmart and find a simple $20 pump that will do everything the expensive ones will. Regarding the plug, the Walmart brand comes with a cigarette lighter plug which you can remove and put a two prong plug that will attach to your battery tender plug. I actually the same receptacle for my floating charger, tire pump, electric vest and in the hack for an electric blanket for my passenger. Just make sure it’s fused, which it should already be for the tender.

Good riding.

 

[ccolwell]

If you've never changed a MC tube before, learning on the side of the road is not the optimum way to go. Breaking the bead can be difficult and requires special tools or very good technique. And most of us (certainly me) pinch the new tube while learning. Try it at home once you have the wheel off and before you take it to Max's.

 

[barryg]

The next time U schedule getting a new tire, ask if U can be part of the tire change. If they are hesitant, tell them you’ll pay a little more to learn how to do the procedure. Ask if they can do it with the tools U carry on the bike. If they agree, tell’em U may need a 2nd time to do this to nail the procedure. Local clubs have tech sessions. Find the guy/gal who U think knows how to do this procedure. Go thru the procedure as a team. Take notes, take pics, pay attention. Schedule a 2nd session on Ur next tire change. U should have learned what tools U needed and added to the kit. Example longer tire irons, a better air supply, punch a hole in an old tube. Take Ur hole repair kit and patch the tube. Air it up, if it holds air; success. If U think U need more practice, punch another hole, patch it, air it up, if it holds air; U got it. All BMW’s come with an owner’s manual that shows the procedure in text and pics. On the 2nd tire change U should have taken the lead and done the tire change by yourself. The tech should just watch and give advice. By now U should know if Ur up to the task. When confident in Ur skill, it makes the ride a lot more pleasant. Ride and enjoy.

 

[jad01]

I would only add: changing a MC tire is, at its core*, essentially the same as changing a bicycle tire, especially with a wire spoke wheel. The parts are heavier, requiring more effort, but otherwise fairly straightforward and the parts/tools are analogous, just bigger.


* at its core... valve stem core.... that's funny dang it!

 

[jhall]

Agree 100 Percent

I would only add: changing a MC tire is, at its core*, essentially the same as changing a bicycle tire, especially with a wire spoke wheel. The parts are heavier, requiring more effort, but otherwise fairly straightforward and the parts/tools are analogous, just bigger.


* at its core... valve stem core.... that's funny dang it!

If you have changed a bicycle tire, you can also change a wire spoked Airhead tire. You can also change a tire on the newer mags, that come on mono shock Airheads. However, if it has a snowflake mag on it, forget about trying to change it alongside the road. They are tough to break down off the rim, tough to remove and install, and tough to get to pop back onto the rim. I cannot imaging getting one popped back on the rim with an Airhead's OEM hand pump. It may be possible with a small compressor, but it's difficult even with a shop size compressor. All that being said, snowflakes are probably the safest, since they won't instantly come off the rim if you have a blow out at speed, but they're also the biggest PITA to work with.

 

[slowpokepete]

OK...got the wheel off with no trouble.

Used a compression strap to secure the center stand to the front wheel, loosened rear brake wing nut, had to remove the top shock bolt to let the swing arm drop to gain enough clearance around the luggage rack to remove the wheel.

Bringing to Max BMW this afternoon for them to have a look, fingers crossed that the wheel is fine (I don't see anything that makes me think it isn't) and will go back up towards the end of the week to get it back.

I'll update when they give me their opinion, but wanted to say thanks to all who chimed in with suggestions, opinions, and advice.

SPP

 

[ecjjce]

Reassembly.....

SPP-

Something not mentioned and worth noting is being mindful in your reassembly process when putting the wheel back on the bike. While not usually possible on the side of the road, axle nuts are something I always set with a torque wrench. Doing that will also give you sense of how much to tighten the nut when a torque wrench isn't available.

It is also important to seat the axle shoulder and compress the bearing and spacer stack before tightening the axle pinch bolt.

Definitely worth practicing in the shop with your road tool kit as was mentioned previously, and worth reviewing the procedure in your manual.

ECJ

 

[slowpokepete]

Definitely planning on using a torque wrench for re-install in my garage. Should have wheel back with new tire on Friday.

It is also important to seat the axle shoulder and compress the bearing and spacer stack before tightening the axle pinch bolt.

Not 100% sure what this means...

SPP

 

[PGlaves]

Not 100% sure what this means...

SPP

This applies to a front wheel or double sided swingarm.

 

[6322]

What it means is if you’re replacing the front wheel for what ever reason, the last thing you tighten is the pinch bolt at the bottom of the fork leg. This allows you to set the preload on the wheel bearings as you torque the axle. Then tighten and torque the pinch bolts.

 

[slowpokepete]

What it means is if you’re replacing the front wheel for what ever reason, the last thing you tighten is the pinch bolt at the bottom of the fork leg. This allows you to set the preload on the wheel bearings as you torque the axle. Then tighten and torque the pinch bolts.

Thanks...totally get this.

SPP