Ut oh, 00 R1100RT w/ 80k cutting out.

[eastbay]

While riding into town my bike started cutting out. It wasn't even warmed up yet,was not raining, and the engine would just backfire and shut off, or shut off and backfire? I'd coast to a stop and it would start right up. [thankfully]. At first I thought I accidently hit the kill switch, but after it happened several times [speed didn't seem to matter] I headed home. I thought HES and contacted the guy I bought it from [about 5k ago] He said he looked at the HES and the wires were both grey and l fine. I know a wire can "look fine" and still not be fine. He suggested a short somewhere, possibly in ignition switch or wire. I've got to replace the fork seals , so that will be a good time to investigate.
thoughts, thanks in advance
Andy

 

[Paul_F]

I had a similar problem a few years ago with the side stand wiring. Rewired and my problem was solved. Your problem may be different.

A few years later I was proactive and did replace the HES wiring before that gave out and left me stranded.

 

[BC1100S]

It could be the wire bundle that comes out of the ignition switch. Apparently they were zip tied too tightly to the frame at the factory and have a habit of failing from fatigue. Try starting your bike and then wiggling (technical term) the wire bundle in that area.

As well, if the HES hasn't been replaced, do it now to avoid future heartache. It could also be the source of your issue now.

 

[jrogers]

Another thing might be the fuel tank vent?

 

[RPGR90s]

Key On, engine not started.

Rotate the handlebars from full right to full left. If any lights on the dash flicker, you've got a power wire issue on the ignition switch.

I would do the same check with the killswitch and sidestand switch.

 

[m_stock10506]

East bay. Even though you have only had it for 5K miles, have you done any work on it recently?

It starts. If you leave it in neutral, can you increase the throttle and run the motor without any stumbling?

Check the battery for loose cables. Can you hook up a voltmeter in view so you can check it when the bike stumbles?

 

[eastbay]

East bay. Even though you have only had it for 5K miles, have you done any work on it recently?

It starts. If you leave it in neutral, can you increase the throttle and run the motor without any stumbling?

Check the battery for loose cables. Can you hook up a voltmeter in view so you can check it when the bike stumbles?

onlyoil change and spark plugs a couple hundred miles ago. Yes , no stumbling throttle increase. It runs great, then just cuts out. no stumbling or warning. It was pouring all day and flooding, will check further tomorrow.

 

[ksdcr]

I also agree that this sounds like a broken wire under the ignition switch. I had the same symptoms on my 2000 RS, and was able to locate the break. Harness was a little over $100 several years ago. It is a doable do it yourself job. Can be done in a few hours, lots of stuff to take off to get to the wiring harness.

 

[eastbay]

I also agree that this sounds like a broken wire under the ignition switch. I had the same symptoms on my 2000 RS, and was able to locate the break. Harness was a little over $100 several years ago. It is a doable do it yourself job. Can be done in a few hours, lots of stuff to take off to get to the wiring harness.

I had that issue with a K 1100 that plastic cap under the ignition switch had broken off and one of the wires was loose. It started up fine this morning turn the handlebars both ways jiggled all the wires under there that I could reach took the seat off jiggled all the wires around the battery look down near the kickstand switch jiggle those wires around the switch seems to be operating normally that’s about as far as I could get today. Thanks for all the suggestions. I’ll investigate further when I can get it into my shed and start dismantling some of the Tupperware so I can look at the wiring harness. And get to the battery. Yesterday it acted just like hitting the cut off switch ,when it died on me yesterday the red battery light was still lit If that’s a clue, possibly the wire to the cut off switch is bad?

 

[BC1100S]

My money is on an HES failure. The sheathing for the wiring may look fine but its the wires inside which are disintegrating. PM gsaddict for a superlative replacement.

 

[eastbay]

Took it out for a ride ,got it to operating temperature ,rode it over some really rough road ,could not get it to duplicate the whack!

 

[jrogers]

I know one of my friends had the same type symptoms. Took to a dealer who kept it for over a month letting the mechanic ride it home every night. Finally the problem duplicated and it was a bad coil.
He had replaced the Hall sensor and the fuel pump trying to solve the problem before taking it to the dealer.

 

[eastbay]

I know one of my friends had the same type symptoms. Took to a dealer who kept it for over a month letting the mechanic ride it home every night. Finally the problem duplicated and it was a bad coil.
He had replaced the Hall sensor and the fuel pump trying to solve the problem before taking it to the dealer.

Thanks, I’ll test the coils, but since it is intermittent, may test good?

 

[m_stock10506]

Thanks, I’ll test the coils, but since it is intermittent, may test good?

I have replaced the coil on my 1100RT, and a friend with an 1100RT had to replace his. There are usually coils available on eBay. The replacement isn’t very difficult. When mine failed it would suddenly stop running, all lights still working. At first, it would just start while still rolling, just pop the clutch. Then it would stall and need a minute or two to rest, then restart. Eventually it stalled and wouldn’t restart. Put in a low mileage used coil and away we go.

 

[jrogers]

Yeah it won't do to much good testing the coil as it's going to test good being an intermittent problem. I think the dealer had it a long time and rode it for a lot of miles until the problem occurred. They usually fail when the get hot and when cooled off they still work.

 

[eastbay]

Yeah it won't do to much good testing the coil as it's going to test good being an intermittent problem. I think the dealer had it a long time and rode it for a lot of miles until the problem occurred. They usually fail when the get hot and when cooled off they still work.

rode around yesterday and could not duplicate the issue?? I'm going to take the tupperware off and have a look see at the wires and inspect the HES. maybe something will reveal itself.

 

[jrogers]

Usually the Hall sensor is working or not. If your going to that much work to look at it you might as well get it rebuilt.

 

[BC1100S]

I'm going to take the tupperware off and have a look see at the wires and inspect the HES. maybe something will reveal itself.

Its the wiring inside the sheathing which deteriorates so a visual inspection may not reveal anything. As Mr. Rogers has said, if you're going to the trouble of looking at it, you may as well replace it. As previously stated, GSAddict is the person you need to PM.

 

[gsaddict]

It's the insulation inside the splice that fails first.
Not visible unless you cut it open.
The old style units all eventually fail and strand the rider usually during a rainstorm.
They can be rewired with teflon aircraft grade wire, good for the life of the bike.

 

[eastbay]

the weather is nice and I've been riding the bike a lot. It has not cut out once. Did it get scared that I was going to start disassembling it?