B
BMW_Rogue
Guest
It all began a year ago ... the notion of making a pilgrimage to St John's, Newfoundland ...
I really haven't a clue just what spawned this capricious idea ... this desire ... this need ... perhaps the thought of traveling to far-off lands ... perhaps the idea of just going ... being ... someplace else ... and the mystery, the exotica of making that journey on my R1200C ...
After finding the RTR '08 thread here on Chromeheads and subsequently the Ride the Rock '08 website, the plotzing began ... route planning and scheduling, prepping the bike, getting together my kit, wrapping my mind around the concept of the journey. And then ... the disappointment of cancellation due to circumstances I won't bemoan here ... not just now ...
That disappointment morphed from the pain of cancellation to seeing at it as merely a postponement. It was with this mindset that plans began to join my fellows for Ride the Rock '09 ...
This past Winter found the bike undergoing the usual I've-got-nothing-better-to-do-with-my-time tweaking and maintenance including a paint upgrade. Come Spring, reservations were made for ferry crossings and accommodations. As what sufficed for Summer here on the Mid-coast of Maine came upon us, things really started coming together as I ... once again ... started prepping the bike and getting my kit together in anticipation of the upcoming expedition to that mysterious farthest-eastern province of Newfoundland ...
My route would take me to Moncton for the first day with the second day ending with me in North Sydney where I've got a rez on the "Midnight Special" to Port Aux Basques. Day three will find me having a bite to eat after getting off the ferry before making the 5+ hour 300 mile/482 kilometre ride to Grand Falls-Windsor at which point I will decide whether or not to continue on to St John's or leave that for the next morning. Of course, all this depends on the weather ... iffy at best this Summer as there've been many more rainy days than sunny. In other words, if either the 27th or28th is a stormy day and the other is to be a good day for travel, you will probably find me going straight on to North Sydney rather than stop in Moncton ... same after the crossing, leaving out the stay at Grand Falls on the way to St John's where, in any scenario, I should arrive by the 30th. I'll do my site-seeing on the way back. Of course, all of this will be subject to change as my whims for side trips and alternate routes come to play. Why am I wimping out in favour of such short days? This is s'posed to be a relaxing, first-time-out-of-town-for-a-long-ride in two summers, see-some-sites kinda ride ... not some pedal-to-the-metal, ball-busting marathon trip ... St John's will still be there when I arrive ... and hopefully when I leave ...
And now the time has come ... the bike stands at the ready ... my mind, body and spirit are ready and anxiously awaiting dawn. Within hours I will make my departure on this 3,000 mile/4,828 kilometre escapade. Get ready, Canada ... beware, St John's: the Yanks are coming!
*****
Chronicles of a Pilgrimage ...
27 July : The crack of dawn found me up and at-the-ready to hit the road. Gear was packed, the bike loaded and fueled last evening. A relaxing latte and a scone on the aft deck eased the anxiety a bit ... but not much, as the anticipation of being on the road for this solo tour to the very edge of the continent tried to take the reins. The sun edging up over the horizon, attempting to break through the clouds, found me in the saddle and easing down the drive headed for the 20 mile ride out Route 46 to hook up with Route 9 for the run to the border ... it was a nice to start the day with a short but sweet, fun ride to get the blood flowing ...
Well, that's the way is was s'posed to be. Alas, it was only true down to the point of "The sun edging up over the horizon ..."
In reality, the fog was so thick I could not see beyond the driveway, rain was falling and surrounding areas ... including the route to the border crossing ... were under the vail of moderate to severe thunderstorms with hail and winds to 60 miles per hour. Altogether not the most pleasant of conditions in any circumstance but certainly not conducive to having a good day on the bike ...
Sooo ... "tomorrow, tomorrow, tomorrow's another day" as the song goes ... the forecast is for better conditions with sun and a few clouds ... a much nicer day all 'round ...
Meantime ... it's out to the Aft Deck to stretch out with another latte and a good book. Hmmm ... how 'bout a few chapters of "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance", that other chronicle of a journey through life on a motorcycle ...
28/29 July : This day took me straight through to the ferry ... a marathon day of 621 miles/999 kilometres in 13 hours. Not my favourite touring style, but it got me to ferry on time ... with the only stops being for fuel, a not so leisurely lunch and no real site-seeing along the way. Wow, am I ready for a rest!
Which, as it turns out, is tough stuff! Now the fun begins! At the terminal, we were queued up for boarding at 11pm for a 1am departure and a 7am arrival in Port Aux Basque. Yeah, right! After a series of fiascos that rival anything you could come up with for a "reality show", we finally boarded around 5-ish in the morning ... mind you, this is after the aforementioned 13 hour ride, a 12 hour overnight wait for the sailing-that-didn't-happen and all of that with only a couple of hours sleep grabbed as the occasional cat nap ... and departure wasn't 'til just after 7am ... with a return to the dock around 10am after a fire in the generator room an hour out on the way to Port Aux Basque. Now there's something to cause a bit of excitement on board!
The fun is not over. Due to the fire and it's unknown-at-that-time status, we were evacuated from the ship and left to stand around on the tarmac by the terminal building! Now mind you, our vehicles and belongs are still aboard the Vision and we were left with no idea of if or when we would be able to retrieve them. Finally, at midday, we were sent aboard and told to proceed to our vehicles and left kinda in the dark as what was happening.
Well, the show goes on. We were offloaded and after another half-hour wait in the sweltering parking area, reloaded aboard the Smallwood, another of the ferry fleet which had been pulled from the Argentia run and after sitting dockside for another hour, we were finally headed to Newfoundland where we landed just at nightfall. There are a number of tales associated with this comedy of errors, but I won't stretch this out with all of that ...
It's now dark as we disembark and at this point, riding is out of the question ... here in Newfoundland, the moose take over and driving at night is not a wise choice. What to do ... every room in Port Aux Basque is booked. However the wife of one of the other riders has managed to find a sorta motel with lakeside cabins some 30 miles out on the TCH at a very reasonable rate. Well, not exactly on the TCH ... it's another 10 miles on dark, unfamiliar roads to this camp. So off we go into the night ... which we had all agreed we should not do. I tagged along on the off chance they would have an extra cabin available so I wouldn't have to go through the hassle of trying to set up a tent at 10 o'clock at night ... and fortunately they did ... ah, finally a hot shower and soft bed ...
30 July : At the crack of dawn, I hit the road for the start of another long ride on the way to St John's ... another 12 hour day. How much more fun can it get! Winds this day were pretty ferocious ... cross winds and head winds of something like 20-plus miles an hour ... not a lot of fun and if it wasn't for RTR '09 I would have parked it for a the day. Upon reaching St John's, I managed to find the out-of-the-way Wild Rose's B&B just as night was falling and crashed with the thought of getting together with Darrell tomorrow ...
31 July : Internet access here at what is technically a B&B but more like being at home with Mom is certainly not what I expected, is dial-up ... how further back in the dark ages of the internet can you get? So it's off to town to hunt for a cafe with high-speed wireless and try to hook up with Darrell and Joanna. Back in a bit ...
Well, no luck other than a Starbucks at Chapters bookstore that was so heavily used it was impossible to log-on. And I didn't have Darrell's phone number, which was in a post I couldn't access. So went for a ride to explore ... get lost and recover is more like it ... the area a bit before heading back to the Wild Rose's where a message was waiting for me ... Darrell had called from the Duke of Duckworth and when I called back, I was told ... no, it was suggested that I just might want to get my butt down there ... now! George Street was cookin' and there was a Guinness needing my attention. So ... off I go ... see ya later ...
01 August : What an evening that was! A few Guinness and a couple of Rums later and all was well with the world ... and Dr Hook was on stage! Who'd a thunk! What a show! All the old stuff we grew up with ... or sorta grew up with. And I almost missed it!
But I finally made it to Frog Pond Road where I suffered through an extraordinary feast of moose sausage and a number of Guinness ... Wow can those two cook! I've never ... well almost never ... tasted anything so scrumptious! And nothing wrong with a Guinness or two, that's for sure ...
Then I was guided on a "tourist" ride on the bikes around the city of St. John's and then on to Cape Spear for some history lessons and a bit of whale watching. After that, I was treated a fine view of the city and harbour and ... finally ... a latte and Coffee Matters, a coffee house that I take it is frequented often by these two.
A light rain accompanied us back to Frog Pond Road for ... Jeez! ... another stuffing before I waddled off to Wild Rose's for another sound sleep.
02 August : The traditional ... to the Ride the Rock Rallye ... ride around the Irish Loop took up much of this day ... some 300 kilometres (186 miles for the rest of you Yanks) or so. At one point early on in the ride, we met with a group of Harley riders and had a brief discussion on the proper way to right a bike if it was perchance laid down. It was a nice run ... followed, of course, with another Guinness and more food. Jeez, it's a good thing I didn't take time to eat much on the ride out here! I surely would lose my svelte, athletic shape if I hang around here much!
03 August : Shop day this morning ... we did a tank-off on Darrell's bike for new air and fuel filters. Fuel filter swap went fine ... a bit touchy in the beginning and you would understand if you've ever performed a filterectomy. Air filter was another story ... the shop had sent him the wrong one. A real bummer 'cuz we had planned on a kinda short ride after it was all back together. As to the old one ... mice had really chewed it apart and left behind a double handful of what they like for snacks ... seeds of some sort and bits and pieces of the filter. And the bike had been running in spite of all that!
Now mind you, all this was accomplished as we tapped a 12-cupper that a friend had brought in from Starbuck's ... man, were we wired to the max after all that! Chatter was a mile a minute and got faster by the minute as the hours passed.
So the shop will get the right filter to him and he now knows how to get it all back together ... I hope or I'll just have to make another ride up there to help. Jeez, that would be another real bummer ...
But no ride today kinda put a damper on things for sure. So ... another Guinness to get our minds straight and then some packing for the trip tomorrow ... and then another feast to use up the food in the fridge so it wouldn't spoil before they got back from several days of camping ...
04 August : Well, after packing up the tent and helping pack the truck, I fueled up and headed out on the TCH to wait for them at an Irving's at the turn-off for Gros Mourne. And as I waited, I made several attempts at postponing this evening's scheduled departure but it seems I won't be able to get up the Gros Mourne with these guys ... bummer. I was looking forward going walk-about for a couple of days ... you know, seeing some sites, a bit of hiking and just hangin' out in the woods. But alas, it was not to be ... the next booking for the ferry isn't available 'til after the 12th and commitments ... read that as a promise to Kathleen that I wouldn't tarry and would be home soon-ish ... mostly 'cuz I had STD ... that's Stuff To Do ... and the list was growing exponentially with each passing day. So, after meeting up with Darrell and Joanna, we said our good byes ... truly sad from my end 'cuz I really, really enjoyed meeting them and will miss the extraordinarily generous hospitality and friendship they showed me ...
05 August : Yet another ferry delay to the point that I didn't get to the mainland 'til 10-ish to begin the long ride home ... which obviously wouldn't be finished 'til late this evening. But not even then, it seems ... the fog set into St John, NB so thick and heavy that, as evening fell and the traffic didn't slow below 110 or so, it was impossible to continue on safely. After dinner at a Subway and a long hunt with many wrong turns in a city rife with street construction and a check with several places just off the freeway that were full, I found a room and settled in for a good night's sleep to recover from yet another long ride ...
06 August: Up early and after breakfast at the hotel, I hit the road for home ... and driving at 120 ... kph, that is ... I knew it wouldn't take long on the one hand but far too long on the other. How nice it was to pull into the drive and be greeted with loving, open arms ... and a tear or two ... after an adventure I will remember for a lifetime ...
For it was an adventure, my friends ... with all it's bumps in the road and wrong turns, it was a grand adventure. An adventure to a land where a stranger is made to feel welcome everywhere ... as I was at Darrell's and Joanna's home. One I hope to make again ... no, one I will make again ... soon, I hope ... but if not this year, next ... and for a longer time ...
The entire trip was a tad over 3,100 miles/4,988 kilometres when all the side trips and wrong turns are included. Approximately 65 gallons/261 litres of fuel was consumed for a cost of 'round about $180US. Somewhere in the vicinity of a gazillion smiles were felt. Yes, I'd say that was indeed an adventure ... an adventure equal to any I've had before ...
Speaking of next year, if you guys don't make RTR '10 you will miss the best rallye Newfoundland has ever seen! There are plans formulating for ... well, under penalty for being responsible for more than a round or two (which could take a chunk out of the budget considering all of you that will be there!) I can't disclose anything just yet. But when they are presented in full, you won't be able to say no ... guaranteed!
And so I'm signing off for now ... got some time to make up for here on this end ...
I really haven't a clue just what spawned this capricious idea ... this desire ... this need ... perhaps the thought of traveling to far-off lands ... perhaps the idea of just going ... being ... someplace else ... and the mystery, the exotica of making that journey on my R1200C ...
After finding the RTR '08 thread here on Chromeheads and subsequently the Ride the Rock '08 website, the plotzing began ... route planning and scheduling, prepping the bike, getting together my kit, wrapping my mind around the concept of the journey. And then ... the disappointment of cancellation due to circumstances I won't bemoan here ... not just now ...
That disappointment morphed from the pain of cancellation to seeing at it as merely a postponement. It was with this mindset that plans began to join my fellows for Ride the Rock '09 ...
This past Winter found the bike undergoing the usual I've-got-nothing-better-to-do-with-my-time tweaking and maintenance including a paint upgrade. Come Spring, reservations were made for ferry crossings and accommodations. As what sufficed for Summer here on the Mid-coast of Maine came upon us, things really started coming together as I ... once again ... started prepping the bike and getting my kit together in anticipation of the upcoming expedition to that mysterious farthest-eastern province of Newfoundland ...
My route would take me to Moncton for the first day with the second day ending with me in North Sydney where I've got a rez on the "Midnight Special" to Port Aux Basques. Day three will find me having a bite to eat after getting off the ferry before making the 5+ hour 300 mile/482 kilometre ride to Grand Falls-Windsor at which point I will decide whether or not to continue on to St John's or leave that for the next morning. Of course, all this depends on the weather ... iffy at best this Summer as there've been many more rainy days than sunny. In other words, if either the 27th or28th is a stormy day and the other is to be a good day for travel, you will probably find me going straight on to North Sydney rather than stop in Moncton ... same after the crossing, leaving out the stay at Grand Falls on the way to St John's where, in any scenario, I should arrive by the 30th. I'll do my site-seeing on the way back. Of course, all of this will be subject to change as my whims for side trips and alternate routes come to play. Why am I wimping out in favour of such short days? This is s'posed to be a relaxing, first-time-out-of-town-for-a-long-ride in two summers, see-some-sites kinda ride ... not some pedal-to-the-metal, ball-busting marathon trip ... St John's will still be there when I arrive ... and hopefully when I leave ...
And now the time has come ... the bike stands at the ready ... my mind, body and spirit are ready and anxiously awaiting dawn. Within hours I will make my departure on this 3,000 mile/4,828 kilometre escapade. Get ready, Canada ... beware, St John's: the Yanks are coming!
*****
Chronicles of a Pilgrimage ...
27 July : The crack of dawn found me up and at-the-ready to hit the road. Gear was packed, the bike loaded and fueled last evening. A relaxing latte and a scone on the aft deck eased the anxiety a bit ... but not much, as the anticipation of being on the road for this solo tour to the very edge of the continent tried to take the reins. The sun edging up over the horizon, attempting to break through the clouds, found me in the saddle and easing down the drive headed for the 20 mile ride out Route 46 to hook up with Route 9 for the run to the border ... it was a nice to start the day with a short but sweet, fun ride to get the blood flowing ...
Well, that's the way is was s'posed to be. Alas, it was only true down to the point of "The sun edging up over the horizon ..."
In reality, the fog was so thick I could not see beyond the driveway, rain was falling and surrounding areas ... including the route to the border crossing ... were under the vail of moderate to severe thunderstorms with hail and winds to 60 miles per hour. Altogether not the most pleasant of conditions in any circumstance but certainly not conducive to having a good day on the bike ...
Sooo ... "tomorrow, tomorrow, tomorrow's another day" as the song goes ... the forecast is for better conditions with sun and a few clouds ... a much nicer day all 'round ...
Meantime ... it's out to the Aft Deck to stretch out with another latte and a good book. Hmmm ... how 'bout a few chapters of "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance", that other chronicle of a journey through life on a motorcycle ...
28/29 July : This day took me straight through to the ferry ... a marathon day of 621 miles/999 kilometres in 13 hours. Not my favourite touring style, but it got me to ferry on time ... with the only stops being for fuel, a not so leisurely lunch and no real site-seeing along the way. Wow, am I ready for a rest!
Which, as it turns out, is tough stuff! Now the fun begins! At the terminal, we were queued up for boarding at 11pm for a 1am departure and a 7am arrival in Port Aux Basque. Yeah, right! After a series of fiascos that rival anything you could come up with for a "reality show", we finally boarded around 5-ish in the morning ... mind you, this is after the aforementioned 13 hour ride, a 12 hour overnight wait for the sailing-that-didn't-happen and all of that with only a couple of hours sleep grabbed as the occasional cat nap ... and departure wasn't 'til just after 7am ... with a return to the dock around 10am after a fire in the generator room an hour out on the way to Port Aux Basque. Now there's something to cause a bit of excitement on board!
The fun is not over. Due to the fire and it's unknown-at-that-time status, we were evacuated from the ship and left to stand around on the tarmac by the terminal building! Now mind you, our vehicles and belongs are still aboard the Vision and we were left with no idea of if or when we would be able to retrieve them. Finally, at midday, we were sent aboard and told to proceed to our vehicles and left kinda in the dark as what was happening.
Well, the show goes on. We were offloaded and after another half-hour wait in the sweltering parking area, reloaded aboard the Smallwood, another of the ferry fleet which had been pulled from the Argentia run and after sitting dockside for another hour, we were finally headed to Newfoundland where we landed just at nightfall. There are a number of tales associated with this comedy of errors, but I won't stretch this out with all of that ...
It's now dark as we disembark and at this point, riding is out of the question ... here in Newfoundland, the moose take over and driving at night is not a wise choice. What to do ... every room in Port Aux Basque is booked. However the wife of one of the other riders has managed to find a sorta motel with lakeside cabins some 30 miles out on the TCH at a very reasonable rate. Well, not exactly on the TCH ... it's another 10 miles on dark, unfamiliar roads to this camp. So off we go into the night ... which we had all agreed we should not do. I tagged along on the off chance they would have an extra cabin available so I wouldn't have to go through the hassle of trying to set up a tent at 10 o'clock at night ... and fortunately they did ... ah, finally a hot shower and soft bed ...
30 July : At the crack of dawn, I hit the road for the start of another long ride on the way to St John's ... another 12 hour day. How much more fun can it get! Winds this day were pretty ferocious ... cross winds and head winds of something like 20-plus miles an hour ... not a lot of fun and if it wasn't for RTR '09 I would have parked it for a the day. Upon reaching St John's, I managed to find the out-of-the-way Wild Rose's B&B just as night was falling and crashed with the thought of getting together with Darrell tomorrow ...
31 July : Internet access here at what is technically a B&B but more like being at home with Mom is certainly not what I expected, is dial-up ... how further back in the dark ages of the internet can you get? So it's off to town to hunt for a cafe with high-speed wireless and try to hook up with Darrell and Joanna. Back in a bit ...
Well, no luck other than a Starbucks at Chapters bookstore that was so heavily used it was impossible to log-on. And I didn't have Darrell's phone number, which was in a post I couldn't access. So went for a ride to explore ... get lost and recover is more like it ... the area a bit before heading back to the Wild Rose's where a message was waiting for me ... Darrell had called from the Duke of Duckworth and when I called back, I was told ... no, it was suggested that I just might want to get my butt down there ... now! George Street was cookin' and there was a Guinness needing my attention. So ... off I go ... see ya later ...
01 August : What an evening that was! A few Guinness and a couple of Rums later and all was well with the world ... and Dr Hook was on stage! Who'd a thunk! What a show! All the old stuff we grew up with ... or sorta grew up with. And I almost missed it!
But I finally made it to Frog Pond Road where I suffered through an extraordinary feast of moose sausage and a number of Guinness ... Wow can those two cook! I've never ... well almost never ... tasted anything so scrumptious! And nothing wrong with a Guinness or two, that's for sure ...
Then I was guided on a "tourist" ride on the bikes around the city of St. John's and then on to Cape Spear for some history lessons and a bit of whale watching. After that, I was treated a fine view of the city and harbour and ... finally ... a latte and Coffee Matters, a coffee house that I take it is frequented often by these two.
A light rain accompanied us back to Frog Pond Road for ... Jeez! ... another stuffing before I waddled off to Wild Rose's for another sound sleep.
02 August : The traditional ... to the Ride the Rock Rallye ... ride around the Irish Loop took up much of this day ... some 300 kilometres (186 miles for the rest of you Yanks) or so. At one point early on in the ride, we met with a group of Harley riders and had a brief discussion on the proper way to right a bike if it was perchance laid down. It was a nice run ... followed, of course, with another Guinness and more food. Jeez, it's a good thing I didn't take time to eat much on the ride out here! I surely would lose my svelte, athletic shape if I hang around here much!
03 August : Shop day this morning ... we did a tank-off on Darrell's bike for new air and fuel filters. Fuel filter swap went fine ... a bit touchy in the beginning and you would understand if you've ever performed a filterectomy. Air filter was another story ... the shop had sent him the wrong one. A real bummer 'cuz we had planned on a kinda short ride after it was all back together. As to the old one ... mice had really chewed it apart and left behind a double handful of what they like for snacks ... seeds of some sort and bits and pieces of the filter. And the bike had been running in spite of all that!
Now mind you, all this was accomplished as we tapped a 12-cupper that a friend had brought in from Starbuck's ... man, were we wired to the max after all that! Chatter was a mile a minute and got faster by the minute as the hours passed.
So the shop will get the right filter to him and he now knows how to get it all back together ... I hope or I'll just have to make another ride up there to help. Jeez, that would be another real bummer ...
But no ride today kinda put a damper on things for sure. So ... another Guinness to get our minds straight and then some packing for the trip tomorrow ... and then another feast to use up the food in the fridge so it wouldn't spoil before they got back from several days of camping ...
04 August : Well, after packing up the tent and helping pack the truck, I fueled up and headed out on the TCH to wait for them at an Irving's at the turn-off for Gros Mourne. And as I waited, I made several attempts at postponing this evening's scheduled departure but it seems I won't be able to get up the Gros Mourne with these guys ... bummer. I was looking forward going walk-about for a couple of days ... you know, seeing some sites, a bit of hiking and just hangin' out in the woods. But alas, it was not to be ... the next booking for the ferry isn't available 'til after the 12th and commitments ... read that as a promise to Kathleen that I wouldn't tarry and would be home soon-ish ... mostly 'cuz I had STD ... that's Stuff To Do ... and the list was growing exponentially with each passing day. So, after meeting up with Darrell and Joanna, we said our good byes ... truly sad from my end 'cuz I really, really enjoyed meeting them and will miss the extraordinarily generous hospitality and friendship they showed me ...
05 August : Yet another ferry delay to the point that I didn't get to the mainland 'til 10-ish to begin the long ride home ... which obviously wouldn't be finished 'til late this evening. But not even then, it seems ... the fog set into St John, NB so thick and heavy that, as evening fell and the traffic didn't slow below 110 or so, it was impossible to continue on safely. After dinner at a Subway and a long hunt with many wrong turns in a city rife with street construction and a check with several places just off the freeway that were full, I found a room and settled in for a good night's sleep to recover from yet another long ride ...
06 August: Up early and after breakfast at the hotel, I hit the road for home ... and driving at 120 ... kph, that is ... I knew it wouldn't take long on the one hand but far too long on the other. How nice it was to pull into the drive and be greeted with loving, open arms ... and a tear or two ... after an adventure I will remember for a lifetime ...
For it was an adventure, my friends ... with all it's bumps in the road and wrong turns, it was a grand adventure. An adventure to a land where a stranger is made to feel welcome everywhere ... as I was at Darrell's and Joanna's home. One I hope to make again ... no, one I will make again ... soon, I hope ... but if not this year, next ... and for a longer time ...
The entire trip was a tad over 3,100 miles/4,988 kilometres when all the side trips and wrong turns are included. Approximately 65 gallons/261 litres of fuel was consumed for a cost of 'round about $180US. Somewhere in the vicinity of a gazillion smiles were felt. Yes, I'd say that was indeed an adventure ... an adventure equal to any I've had before ...
Speaking of next year, if you guys don't make RTR '10 you will miss the best rallye Newfoundland has ever seen! There are plans formulating for ... well, under penalty for being responsible for more than a round or two (which could take a chunk out of the budget considering all of you that will be there!) I can't disclose anything just yet. But when they are presented in full, you won't be able to say no ... guaranteed!
And so I'm signing off for now ... got some time to make up for here on this end ...
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