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R1150 clutch splines redux

Like all threads at this point in time, the 1150 clutch spline issue has been beaten over and over, but it never really dies. In that light I thought some would enjoy my observations that I gathered from my own experience. Back in 2013 I decided it was time to have a look at the splines on my R1150RS. Mileage at the time was 117K km. (72700 miles) After I removed the transmission and clutch, I took some pictures. The splines on the tranny input shaft showed the classic wear that many have seen on the 1150 series. The splines wear with a tapper closest to the gearbox housing. This can be seen clearly in the photos.

splines 2013.jpgsplines 2013b.jpg

I guesstimated the wear at approximately 15 to 20%. On the other hand the mating clutch splines faired far worse. I would guess that wear was closer to 50%.


Naturally I was dismayed and wondered what I could do, if anything. Others, in numerous threads, and professionals like Anton suggested that a defective or warped clutch carrier was the culprit. With that in mind, I waited for the wife to leave the house. Then using the marble kitchen table as a base, I used a dial gauge to check the carrier for any runout. As far as I could measure, it was quite true. I could find no high or low spots. What I did notice was that the three mating surfaces of the carrier were flat. In the area where the three straps for the clutch pressure plate mount, there was no indentation. The straps are .0035 inch thick, not much. But when I placed the pressure plate and clutch cover together on the clutch carrier naturally there was a .0035 inch gap. When bolting the three parts together, the gap disappeared. I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but it seemed to me that for the gap to go away, something must be warping. I suspected this was not a good thing, and perhaps it could be the source of the strange tapered wear seen on the input shaft. I decided to file materiel from the carrier to create a gap for the .0035 pressure plate straps. I ensured that when buttoned down, there would still be sufficient pressure on the straps and they would have no space to wiggle around in that gap. Now I know that engineers and perfectionists would object to installing a new part with a spline like a disk on a shaft that is worn. I have no doubt that it is an awful and terrible thing to do, but fortunately I am not an engineer, so I had no qualms and went ahead anyway. Ignorance is bliss. I then reassembled using new parts, clutch pressure plate, clutch cover, spring, and Siebenrock disk on the old carrier and worn input shaft.

Now that the 2017 riding season is over, once again I started to worry about those dam splines. I have ridden an additional 85k km, (52000 miles) since the new parts were installed. The input shaft is original and has spun around inside of two clutch disks now for 200200 km. What was going on in there? I went as far as taking a video of the clutch disk play after removing the starter. About 1/8th of an inch, not exactly scientific. That didn’t help. I finally caved in and decided I had to look. Part two to follow.
 

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same boat

Hi black Jack , I find myself in the same boat with the gearbox splines on my new to me 2000 r1100rt, have installed a new clutch plate on the worn splines ,and if I can get 50,000 km from it I would be well pleased have the gearbox stripped at the moment and installing a washer to beef up the input shaft tortion coupler cam gear ,which was causing a knocking sound on take off and low throttle manuvers and will also renew the input shaft bearings reassemble and see how she goes next year, what are the input shaft splines on yours like now ? look forward to part two, Jimmy :ca
 
Some have been having good luck with the clutch disc spacer that has been posted about here for the 1150. This spacer allows for much more engagement of the splines which many think is part of the problem. This issue is only on the 1150 however. The 1100 spline engagement is fine. Premature spline wear in the 1100s usually due to lack of spline lubrication and riding style. The 1150 however has had a lot more issues with spline failure. This is all quite well documented on this forum already though so nothing really new here. What both you guys are seeing is really the new "normal".
 
Some have been having good luck with the clutch disc spacer that has been posted about here for the 1150. This spacer allows for much more engagement of the splines which many think is part of the problem. This issue is only on the 1150 however. The 1100 spline engagement is fine. Premature spline wear in the 1100s usually due to lack of spline lubrication and riding style. The 1150 however has had a lot more issues with spline failure. This is all quite well documented on this forum already though so nothing really new here. What both you guys are seeing is really the new "normal".

I am aware of the new clutch disk with the extended splines. It seems to be based upon the assumption that the issue is due to the partial engagement of the BMW splines. Has anyone published any before and after pictures that would verify the extended splines actually resolved the problem?
 
I am aware of the new clutch disk with the extended splines. It seems to be based upon the assumption that the issue is due to the partial engagement of the BMW splines. Has anyone published any before and after pictures that would verify the extended splines actually resolved the problem?

Some info:

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/bmw-1150gs-clutch-splines-spacer-kit-closed.964425/

http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...spacer-feedback-thread.1073223/#post-27007778

Full use of the splines only makes sense.

on my '00 1150GS:
In '07 I installed a 6mm longer input shaft (custom built) at 94k miles
In '15 I inspected the clutch splines at 173k miles - they were fine but because I was in there the disc was changed
Presently at 206k mikes

Ideally a longer shaft is the proper approach but is cost prohibitive. The spacer is the next best solution IMO.
My new to me '03 RT will be getting one shortly.
 
As a precaution I installed the spacer on my '04 S with 24K and '04 RT with 31K. Both shafts showed zero signs of wear at the time. The RT clutch was smoked so it got a new clutch package as well.

I installed the Motorwerks/BBY disk with the extended hub on my '04 Rockster at 32K which had failed splines. Replaced the shaft with a good used one. Also installed the disk on a second '04 RT as a precaution.

I tentatively plan on pulling the gearbox on the 1st RT at 50k to inspect. I will definately pull the box on the Rockster at about 42K (10K use) to inspect as it was the only one that had experienced spline failure.

Problem is I ride all of them as well as a fourth bike so its tough to accrue miles... the RT will probably come up first.

I have bouced all over the place regarding root cause... right now I'm leaning towards the idea that slight misalignment and untrue running of the clutch assy relative to the shaft is compunded by partial engagement of the splines and highly variable quality (metalurgy) with the disk hub. Full spline engagement using a non OEM disk on a known failure (Rockster) may provide a clue if I ever accrue the miles.
 
Last edited:
Esmir indicated that discs with longer hubs were available from Motobins, went to their site and checked every friction disc offering, no mention of the extended hub. Has anyone determine which part number has that feature?
 
Some info:

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/bmw-1150gs-clutch-splines-spacer-kit-closed.964425/

http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...spacer-feedback-thread.1073223/#post-27007778

Full use of the splines only makes sense.

on my '00 1150GS:
In '07 I installed a 6mm longer input shaft (custom built) at 94k miles
In '15 I inspected the clutch splines at 173k miles - they were fine but because I was in there the disc was changed
Presently at 206k mikes

Ideally a longer shaft is the proper approach but is cost prohibitive. The spacer is the next best solution IMO.
My new to me '03 RT will be getting one shortly.


It seems to me that if you add a spacer to the clutch, you could in fact accelerate the wear. If the carrier or clutch assembly is warped, you will have moved the points of wear further from the clutch center. The wobble will be increased and the grinding action greater. Hopefully everyone who has installed a spacer has ensured the clutch carrier is perfect. It would be nice to see some pictures of these extended spacer disks after some high mileage. I guess no one has taken any apart yet.
 
Part 2

Having removed the gearbox, I have had a chance to clean up the parts and take pictures. First is a picture of the modified carrier where I filed a gap for the pressure plate straps.

IMG_20170930_144458.jpg


Now the Seibenrock clutch hub.

seibenrock 2017.jpg

As the photo shows, surprisingly, wear at 85k km is minimal. The teeth show only partial engagement. Only about half the length of the surface which should be in contact with the shaft actually is.

Finally the input shaft. 1 of 2.

shaft2017a.jpg

Compared to the picture of the shaft in the original post from 2013, it looks virtually unchanged. It there is any additional wear, I'm having a hard time seeing it. Finally one more picture in the next post.
 
Part 3

The last picture. This one taken from above reveals where the clutch hub actually contacts the teeth. The shiny section shows the contact area. The rest of the tooth is rusty. This matches what we can see on the hub. At first I was a bit puzzled. Then it occurred to me. I put a new hub on a worn shaft. The worn tapered section of the shaft teeth are not in contact with the hub at all. Since I have fixed the issue with the carrier, the clutch assembly is no longer warped and wobbling. I surmise that if I had not altered the carrier, the new hub would continue to grind away at the shaft, further wearing away at the teeth. I suspect the hub will only partially engage with the teeth on the shaft until they wear to the same degree as the rest of the shaft. All in all, not a bad outcome after 85k km. Had I not taken taken action in 2013, I cannot imagine that original hub still being intact at this mileage. For the record, the R1150RS is a 2002, built in Sept 2001.
Judging from these pictures, it looks like I have a lot of life left on the input shaft.

shaft 2017b.jpg
 
It seems to me that if you add a spacer to the clutch, you could in fact accelerate the wear. If the carrier or clutch assembly is warped, you will have moved the points of wear further from the clutch center. The wobble will be increased and the grinding action greater. Hopefully everyone who has installed a spacer has ensured the clutch carrier is perfect. It would be nice to see some pictures of these extended spacer disks after some high mileage. I guess no one has taken any apart yet.

Point taken. My take on it is that with increased spline engagement more area is available to absorb loads incured due to the variables. Add decent lubrication to reduce fretting and the situation improves. A potentially better material used in the plate hub might also help.

Theoretically eliminating this failure point will move the failure to another location (disc plate or shaft bearings?) which is so common in aircraft structures. First law in troubleshooting is to try the easiest things first... mods to provide full spline engagement seems to be the easiest.
 
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