OK I did a bonehead thing: A ride on my R1150RT with Adventure bikers.

[pglaves]

Any suggestions for getting the sprocket bolt loose? In the head? I need to remove the head but that won't happen unless the sprocket bolt comes loose. Probably has never come off since it was built. I bought an Ingersol Rand impact wrench and no dice. I tried penetrating oil, heat till the oil started smoking and I can't get it to budge. HELP!

Lock the engine at TDC using the BMW mandrell or in its place a long arm 6mm allen wrench. Use a wire tie to fasten the chain and sprocket together to preserve valve timing.

Slowly take all slack out of the chain and then using a new, sharp, allen socket and a LONG lever apply pressure counterclockwise.

Be very careful. I know a couple of folks who broke cam chain guides banging on things here - which greatly increases the amount of work required.

 

[Omega Man]

I get the feeling something is missing- like a piece of a puzzle or a random clue......I can't come up with it. I don't think the OP mentioned a location, kinda like to do a drive by......I have this theory called "fresh eyes", if you know what I mean.
OM

 

[Kutter]

It is a star head & i already slipped out of it & done enough damage I had to use a hammer to re-seat it. The air impact wrench uses hammer blows & I can keep it buried into the star socket. It just is not doing it probably because the chain is absorbing the hammer blows.

 

[pglaves]

It is a star head & i already slipped out of it & done enough damage I had to use a hammer to re-seat it. The air impact wrench uses hammer blows & I can keep it buried into the star socket. It just is not doing it probably because the chain is absorbing the hammer blows.

And slamming aginst a $10 piece of plastic (cam chain guide) that a dealer will charge $2,000 to replace because by the book you need to pull the engine and split the cases to replace it. Been there - done that - not fun.

 

[Kutter]

OK. Now I found a 2 ft pipe to get some torque on my 3/8 drive breaker bar with a T50 size star I thought it broke loose only to find the hardened alloy T50 broke into pieces. Bolt still tight as hell. I'm wondering if the factory used red loctite on the threads. I may be faced with drilling it out & hoping to not damage the ID threads.

 

[BMARC153920]

Heat? Hit it with a torch for a bit then try with a breaker bar or impact wrench?

 

[Kutter]

Heat? Hit it with a torch for a bit then try with a breaker bar or impact wrench?

Used a heat gun till the oil smoked. A bit afraid of a torch with all that oil figuring it may burst into flames.
And I need to get a new T50 bit. Tomorrow.

 

[pglaves]

Hit the head of the bolt with a quick squirt of brake system cleaner to wash off the oil - then use a small butane torch right on/in the recess in the head of the bolt. Get it good and hot - let the oil smoke if it has to. If there is thread locker it will melt. A heat gun won't do it. As always - keep your fire extinguisher nearby just in case.

 

[Kutter]

Hit the head of the bolt with a quick squirt of brake system cleaner to wash off the oil - then use a small butane torch right on/in the recess in the head of the bolt. Get it good and hot - let the oil smoke if it has to. If there is thread locker it will melt. A heat gun won't do it. As always - keep your fire extinguisher nearby just in case.

sounds like a plan. I'll try that tomorrow once I get a new T50.

 

[BMARC153920]

I'd double check to ensure it is not a left hand threaded bolt too. Probably not but worth confirming.

 

[Kutter]

I'd double check to ensure it is not a left hand threaded bolt too. Probably not but worth confirming.

Does ANYONE KNOW? If this is left handed I just have been tightening it ridiculously. How do I find that out?

 

[Kutter]

Red Hot head w/ my acetylene torch and Walla! Its loose.. & as soon as it cools I will need to figure out hot to keep the sprocket & chain tight while I remove the head. THANKS guys for ALL your help!

 

[pglaves]

Red Hot head w/ my acetylene torch and Walla! Its loose.. & as soon as it cools I will need to figure out hot to keep the sprocket & chain tight while I remove the head. THANKS guys for ALL your help!

Use a wire tie through a hole in the sprocket. When you reassemble it lock the engine at TDC and get the cam sprocket arrows horizontal.

 

[Kutter]

It will stay locked at TDC until my head returns. The wire is thru the hole in the sprocket with tension to keep it ready to assemble.

 

[BMARC153920]

Great job. Heat and leverage are often your best friends.

 

[rxcrider]

So, what does the head & valves look like?


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[Kutter]

So, what does the head & valves look like?


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They actually "look" fine. No cracks or noticeable damage. I still boxed it up & sent it to Bomber's Beemers. I was loosing compression from something & valve seats are my biggest suspicions. I have a good compression tool. It does not leak. I just bought it a month ago. It will hold the highest pressure until you push the bleed valve. I successfully measured the left jug at 170 psi. When the right dithered between 120 and 140 I figured that was the issue, then when I stopped cranking it leaked to zero in a few seconds. I did not do the oil in the cylinder test to see if it was the rings but with 15,000 miles and the fact it is a horizontal cylinder and I believe piston rings are more robust than valves I place my bets on its the valve seats. Probably one of them. Wed next week they will have it. I insured it for a grand. Was that enough? The person at UPS told me with a 1000 dollars insurance they will hand carry it and not use conveyors, and the driver would keep it up with him. Maybe BS. Maybe not.

 

[rxcrider]

...I have a good compression tool. It does not leak... It will hold the highest pressure until you push the bleed valve... when I stopped cranking it leaked to zero in a few seconds...

In your own words, "it leaked to zero in a few seconds." A properly functioning compression gauge doesn't leak down. It also shouldn't "dither". If the cylinder pressure doesn't exceed the highest recorded value since the last gauge, the gauge should just hold steady at that high value. There is a slight needle bounce back as the gauge settles after each compression stroke, but that should be it; no 20 PSI swings.


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[Kutter]

I did say it held the 170 psi on the left and acted to not hold the pressure on the right. Feeling stupid for saying what I saw. I think the shrader valve failed between readings. There is a shrader valve just inside the stem that must hold the pressure till you release it with the bleed valve. I took the one out of the stem and it has no spring. Either the spring failed or it doesn't have one. Possibly it is supposed to have a light spring because I put an inner tube shrader valve into it and I couldn't blow it off its seat with compressed air.

 

[rxcrider]

Contact the manufacturer for the correct replacement. If that fails, drop me a PM with your name and address and I'll mail you a couple of the ones we use.


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